went out this morning to start the truck, no go. Acted like the GP's were shot, one long period of time, then a single click. Power to all gp's, power to correct point on the relay, but no love, friggin loveless ******* today haha. I am putting more thought into the manual GP's but wanted to know if anyone had experienced erratic clicking after the high idle period. No click during the warm-up, just right after the warm-up. I have switches, wires, but really like the automatic nature of my system, well at least what i used to have. If i jump the relay, she starts with a 5 second glow. Very frustrated, tired of the weird clicks after warm-up. any thoughts on that one, probably the controller??

 

sounds like controller to me. could add a switch to turn the NEW controller on or off or just leave a hidden manual glow plug button incase the new controller dies. i just went straight to pushbutton manual control

 

most people toss the push button in because they don't want,or can't afford to fix it,and most were the old style system,where a push button was an upgrade.
with a nice rig like yours,and the newer system it would be nice to keep it original.
the newer system works so dang good.be a shame to lose it to a manual glow.

 

Doesn't your Franken truck have the old style controller ... The one that screws into the head??

If you do, I would replace that with the newer style ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

No it's the newer engine that isn't all crappy. Lol. I want to keep it original but just for now till the new controller gets here I will just jump the posts. If I crank it over for 15 seconds it will fire on it's own but that's way to hard for the starter and batts.

 

Do like I did for a short period of time ... Only mine was a little different, mine was the cold start thermal switch.

Remove the white wire off the relay, attach a wire to that relay terminal and run it into the grill to one leg of a button, ground the other leg...

Quick, dirty, no damage temporary manual glow plugs for the 87 up (New style Controller)...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~

 

Have you checked the ground wire on the controller?

More than one person in the forum has had problems with the ground wire not making a good connection.

A few people went as far as running a ground wire from the battery to the controller ground, with great results.

 

Bringing this thread back because when i did the ground mod to attach it to the battery it solved all the problems i had been facing but heres a new one and i cant stop it.

Even completely hot, the controller still cycles. I could run it up a hill, turn it off at 200F, let it sit for a second, restart it and it goes though its heating cycle. Now i know what the wife meant. She took it out the other day to pick up some hay, no fellas she didnt hurt it. But she said she was watching for irregular things and she saw it doing it, i noticed this am after getting some fuel. only off for about 5 minutes and it was still at 190F so why is it glowing for about 8 seconds and afterglowing when it is warm? the cold advance works well still, just dont know here. As usual, thanks for the help!

 

Even hot mine would glow for a few seconds....like 3 or 4 and it would give a few clicks afterwards......

 

i get the 3-4 seconds at operating temp,but no afterglow clicks.
somethings wrong with it reading the resistance.it still thinks your engines cold.

 

Yeah but it's nearly the same as when it's cold. Just making sure I'm not going crazy. Maybe it's my old ip going and messing with my timing and fuel flow. Think I'm gonna park it till the new ip arrives. Always interesting!!!

 

Watch out with the manual if you have other people that drive your truck, they tend to lay on it more than is needed, even if you tell them repeatedly otherwise...

 

mine also glows when warm but will start right away.... even if i just turn the key over without letting the WTS light go out...

 

STP, its not manual now, its auto, but i do know what you mean haha.

Guess i will just keep an eye on it.

 

ok here we go wreck.
(haynes diesel book 10330)

a)check afterglow voltage- remove harness plug at the control switch.start engine and check for voltage at control switch harness.
b)pull harness connector from after glow relay-turn the ignition switch OFF.disconnect wiring at the after glow relay and check connector terminal #1 for ground.
(you'll see a connector with 4 pins inside.with the fat side on the bottom.#1 is the very top.#2 just below it,#3 down in the fat part on the left,and #4 is to the right.......hmm k? lol.hope i descried the pic good enough.)
if the ground is not ok,repair or replace wiring as required. --- this should test good,because you said you ran a devoted ground.but don't skip checking again.
if the ground is ok,turn the ignition switch on and check for voltage at terminal #2.
11 volts is the minimum acceptable reading.
if the reading is less than 11 volts,repair the wiring as required.
if the voltage was a minimum of 11 volts,start the engine and check for voltage at terminal #3.
the reading should be 6.5 to 7.5 volts.
if it is not,repair the wiring or alternator as required.

if the harness connector checks ok,check for resistance between connector terminal #4 and control switch terminal #1.
(the harness connector has 6 ports.looking at it,with the longest side on your right,which has the most ports[4] )
#1 is top right.ok?
if resistance is less than 1 ohm,replace the afterglow relay.
if resistance is is 1 ohm or greater,disconnect the chassis-to-engine glow plug harness connector,and check for resistance between terminal #1 of the chassis connector and after glow relay connector terminal #4
(you know where #4 is on that,as described above ok?)
if resistance is less than 1 ohm,replace the plow plug harness.
if it is 1 ohm or greater,repair the vehicle wiring (haha! oh boy.in other words if this is the case,your on your own finding the problem.)

good luck!