Hey guys! Gonna get right to it...I've got a 90 Bronco with a 351w & e4od that's main purpose is offroad and mudding. Well with that said guess what happened to my e4od?! Broke reverse! Anyway that has been rectified by a rebuilt c6.
The original 351w had a lower end knock and whille trying to get out of the mudhole that devoured my transmission, she developed a few more noises. I figured I would do a complete powertrain changeover. I came across a guy that had a rebuilt 351w that he removed from his dirt stock car. It's a mid-80's block, bored .30, 302 heads(more compression), screw-in-studs, stock style rockers and a VooDoo cam(#002, which has about .500 lift). I swapped my efi intake, replaced the ratty original Bronco injectors with some stock 19's from a Crown Vic, bypassed the EGR & O2 and installed some Flowtech long tube headers.
We got it timed at about 10 degrees(new stock ignition), it starts fine hot or cold, idles good but...when in gear there is no throttle response or increase in forward movement. Another thing is that if you hit the throttle quickly(in park), it's not real crisp and if you try to hit it again before returning to idle, it is like a delayed rev. But you can slowly increase the rpms all the way up with out any stumble and it runs strong. We think it may be a fuel starvation problem so we disconnected the fp reg and blocked the return to maximize fuel pressure. But the 19's will only do so much. Would a set of 24lb injectors and an adjustable fp reg help? But then would I need to replace my pump for more fuel? Would a mustang pump work?
I know it has been going round and round regarding SD and MAF, I'd rather keep it SD if possible because this is just a toy and hate to shell out the cash for a MAF kit. But I'll do what I have to, I have too much invested to quit and I would love to see what this thing will do.
It still has the original 5.8/e4od ecm(but i have 89 5.8/c6 one too), I'm running stock 3.55 gears and 35" boggers.
Any tips, hints, ideas??
Thanks fellers!!

 

If this vehicle is not registered for road use, ditch the electronics and slap a carb on it.

I'm not sure you would ever get the EFI to play with that motor, considering the combo you've put together. It seems like too much for a stock computer to handle.

Just my 0.02 USD worth. YMMV.

Ray

 

A carb would be the easy way out, but you can't beat a properly tuned EFI setup, especially off roading. If the SD system will absolutely not work then I will go MAF. I had a fuel injected 5.0 in my last mud Ranger and it performed great. It can be done, hopefully someone here can help.

 

have you tried it with the '89 computer? i mean its only 3 bolts to try it..

also if you do some reasearch you could possibly put together a maf swap kit your self for a lot cheaper than you can buy one..although i suck at wireing and i have the attention span of a squirel so i'll be getting the kit from dunne-right

 

I'm not sure the ecm is the problem right now, I'm thinking fuel starvation. I've done a some research on a homemade MAF system. I'm leaning towards a Professional Mass Air Systems overlay harness and 89 up Mustang components. Wiring don't scare me.

 

Get on NLOC for alot of tuning SD info. Lots of high HP Lightnings running SD.

Nothing wrong with SD unless you want a lopey cam.

 

OK.. every line above is a potential issue.

Unless that Crown Vic was a 4.6 car you have 14lb(grey) injectors, 19's are orange so you'll need to get a set of those ASAP.

What do you mean "new stock ignition"? Did you remove the spout plug to disable igniton advance when setting the timing?

The 5.8/E4OD EEC is a big problem and likely the main source of your problems(along with the wrong injectors potentially), you need to either reattach the MLPS sensor and permanently set it in drive or neutral or swap in a non E4OD EEC.. but that will require some addition wiring changes.

3.55 gears won't prevent the motor from running but that's not enough gear for 35's, start saving up for 4.56's.

 

Thanks Conanski. I put in a brand new distibutor with a new module, that is "new stock ignition" and we are getting one heck of a spark. The crown vic injectors were out of a 89 302 car and if I remember correctly they are a light blue. I think I have another set of 5.8 orange injectors, not sure if they are any good or not-just to try I guess.
We did unplug the spout when we timed it. What are you referring to on the MLPS? Not ringing a bell.
I imagine I'll have to switch around some pins on the plug for the c6 ecm, correct?
And yes a gear swap will be in order!!!

 

That's good.

Yeah that's no good they are 14lbers, get some 19's in there and don't forget to check fuel pressures.


MPLS is Manual Lever Position Sensor, like all other sensors the EEC needs input from it to properly control the engine and transmission, this link shows the sensor and connector and how you can potentially fake it out with some resistors.. though you can also simply plug it in, set it in the drive position and tape it up out of the way.
Shift Pointers 10-98

Yes, there was a thread here a little while ago where a guy was installing an E4OD in place of a C6 and making the required changes. The EEC pinouts on fordfuelinjection don't seem to be complete so I'll see if I can find that thread.

 

So either I trick the MLPS or repin the ecm for the c6? Where is this MLPS?? So I could just lock this in drive and it would solve one of my problems..maybe?? I got a complete 1989 Bronco that the c6 came out of, so I could actually change out the harness too.
Think the 19 inj's would be sufficient? 24's too much?? What is the free-flow rate of a stock pump? After it's all said and done...will the SD be ok for what I have?

 

Yes the MLPS trick will do and that sensor is mounted on the trans, have a look at the 3rd page of that link to see what it looks like. Changing the wiring harnesses is a bigger job than it looks, there are a lot of wires directly connected to the chassis harness.. it's not a simple unplug and reconnect deal. None of the stock Ford heads flow that well and 19's will support 300+hp so I doubt you need anything bigger, and the SD system will complain a bit but otherwise the motor should run reasonably well under throttle.. good enough for muddin, adding a wideband A/F gauge to the exhaust would be a good tool to see just what is going on, if it does run a bit lean at WOT you could add an adjustable regulator and increase the pressure a bit to compensate. I wouldn't be surprised if the cam in this motor is mismatched to the engine though.. guys always overestimate what these motors are capable of producing, post up some cam specs or a link to them.

P.S. Is it he Lunati 61002? http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1643&gid=287

 

The next item on the list of causing problems is that cam. If it is the same as this one: Voodoo Hyd Cam - Ford 351W the listed LSA is 112 degrees. It is difficult to get Speed Density to work with a LSA of less than 114.

You also made a comment in the original post of "bypassing the EGR & O2". Did you "bypass" the O2 sensor in the exhaust pipe? I hope not. The PCM relies on the signal from that sensor to determine if the fuel to air ratio is correct. If it is bypassed the PCM may be adding or holding back fuel based on a false input.

 

Yes, it is a 61002 cam. I will try the MLPS trick tomorrow and swap out the injectors. I appreciate the info guys!

 

Well.. the SD system will function with a cam like this it just won't deliver OEM driveability with a smooth idle and such, this would cause issues with a daily driver but it may not be a big concern offroad... just depends what the owner is willing to tolerate.

 

I think I'll pull a schematic off of Mitchell for both the 90 ecm & 89 ecm pin locations and see what is actually different. If the MLPS uses the green plug on the drivers fenderwell, I've used that one already to hook up my c6 neutral safety switch and may have to do something different. My big concern was if the SD would "cooperate " with the slight engine mods.