ip wiring
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Actually there should be three wires.
The timing advance and fast idle solenoid are tied together.
They get power by way of the coolant temp switch down by the thermostat.
Should have power when the coolant temp is below 112 degrees, no power above 112 degrees with the engine running or the key ON.
The timing advance and fast idle solenoid are tied together.
They get power by way of the coolant temp switch down by the thermostat.
Should have power when the coolant temp is below 112 degrees, no power above 112 degrees with the engine running or the key ON.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,500
Likes: 2
From: Michigan
they tend to sound like pstrokes with the advance on and run smoother once it kicks off.....
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 21,285
Likes: 16
From: Nutter Fort, WV
Timing by ear,
Engine cold, timing advance on with a Power Stroke rattle.
Engine warm, timing advance off, smooth as silk, no Power Stroke rattle.
There is a possibility the timing advance solenoid is no good or the timing plunger down on the bottom of the IP is stuck.
Engine cold, timing advance on with a Power Stroke rattle.
Engine warm, timing advance off, smooth as silk, no Power Stroke rattle.
There is a possibility the timing advance solenoid is no good or the timing plunger down on the bottom of the IP is stuck.
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Joined: Dec 2009
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Postmaster
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 4,802
Likes: 1
I don't think his advance is stuck on - my IP is maxed out in the adjustment slots, and if the cold advance kicks in when the engine is warm I end up with something rather close to a runaway state - she'd revv up to abut 2500 entirely on her own, then the governor catches her and defuels, she drops way down under normal idle speed where the governor catches her again and feeds her some more fuel, then she takes off on her own again. This is what happens when you have too much advance, he don't have those issues so it tells me with the engine warm his cold advance ain't operational, which is good.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 4,116
Likes: 6
From: metairie, LA
I don't think It I'd stuck on, either. After What I read, I think I may be to fat advanced. It does kinda surge in idle ... from almost dying to wanting to jump through the brakes. But it is better after warm up
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Actually there should be three wires.
The timing advance and fast idle solenoid are tied together.
They get power by way of the coolant temp switch down by the thermostat.
Should have power when the coolant temp is below 112 degrees, no power above 112 degrees with the engine running or the key ON.
The timing advance and fast idle solenoid are tied together.
They get power by way of the coolant temp switch down by the thermostat.
Should have power when the coolant temp is below 112 degrees, no power above 112 degrees with the engine running or the key ON.
that engine is beautiful..how long did you take on that?
