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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 01:00 PM
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NO AIR

2004 F250 SUPER DUTY. Drove to work air was blowing fine, went to lunch and there is no air of any kind blowing. Checked all fuses and they all seem fine. Any ideas??
 
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 01:10 PM
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Yea, this comes up here a lot. LOL, Mike


Intermittent air conditioner head problem

Problem: Air conditioner control unit on dash occasionally just goes out as if there is no power to it. This problem is very common, particularly on the ’03’s from what I have seen.

Typical dealer solution: If you can get the vehicle to repeat the problem in front of the dealer, which is rare unless you happen to drive into the dealer while it is happening, they will recommend replacement of the air conditioner head unit on the dash. This costs around $1000 including labor if you are not under warranty. Since this problem is intermittent and occasional for most of us, and not readily repeatable, some of us have wondered if this solution even fixes the problem

Cause: Unknown, but, for some reason it appears, at least at this point, that this problem is common to those of us who leave our headlights on ‘auto’.

Solution: With the key on (in either run or accessory position), turn the headlights on for a couple of seconds, then off. This usually fixes the problem (Weirdly enough).
 
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 01:32 PM
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No such luck, walked out to my truck and tried your solution. Still no airflow A/C, heat or defrost. Fan is not running.
 
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Old Aug 20, 2010 | 01:39 PM
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See if you can get some kind of 12V power directly to the fan motor just to make sure the motor didn't "smoke". If the fan motor runs you can back track the rest of the AC electrical system to see where you do and don't have power. If you have power to the head unit then the problem is obvious. I'm thinking a relay, which isn't as easy to check, but they do go out for no reason.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:00 AM
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Thanks to those that offered suggestions. On my way home from work, air kicked on and has been working fine. My guess is the fan motor is on its way out..thoughts??
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:05 AM
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Do you have EATC (automatic controls) or the old manual 3 dials?
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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I have the old manual 3 dials.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by bnlharris2u
I have the old manual 3 dials.
The fan switch in the manual control seems to be pretty reliable. I don't think I've ever heard of anyone having a problem with it. That leaves a fuse or the fan relay. Fuse sockets do get loose and some corrosion can cause them to not pass juice. You can check to make sure the fuse is good, the fuse fits tightly into the socket and there is no corrosion. You can check the fan relay pins for corrosion also and if the problem persists, replace it.

If the fan motor is working now, I'd guess it's not the problem. It seems bearings on them usually fail before they do. But I could be wrong.

Fuses to check are 10 amp #28 and 40 amp #107. The diagram below shows the location of the blower motor relay.

Edit: You might also want to check the wiring harness connector on the fan for corrosion.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:52 AM
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Thanks for the tips, will take a look for any corrosion. First thing I did was pull all fuses and check them, I also ensured they were all seated securely and all seemed to be fine. I thought the motor went for sure..then it just suddenly kicked on and has been working fine. But want to get the problem fixed before the windows are frosted and its 30 degrees and I have no heat one morning when I leave for work. Just makes it hard to trouble shoot when everythings working fine.
 
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Old Aug 24, 2010 | 11:53 AM
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I agree with you David. Fan motors are pretty bulletproof electrically.

To the OP: IIRC several of the big relays in the pic that David posted are the same. If the problem reoccurs try switching the Fan relay with the rear window defrost relay and see if that immediately cures the problem. That's something you can do at no cost to yourself, and as David also said check for corrosion on the connections and misinstalled fuses.
 
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