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That looks cool, ill have to find an extra wrench or I might have a double box end wrench I can tweak, just gota wait for my bro to get home with the oxy acet torch lol. I did manage to get the passenger side off, do you have to jack up the motor to get the passenger side out.
What type of headers? I have Heddman longtubes on my '69 F-250 2 wheel drive and I can get to all the bolts using either a racheting box end wrench, regular box end wrench, or a ratchet and socket. On my pickup you can get both sides out without jacking up the engine, but the driver's side is a huge PITA with the steering box and master cylinder right there.....
Ok I got then off, it took 5 different tools but the stubby 9/16 worked great, only got 2 bolts with a swivel socket. It dosent help that my truck is lifted but atleast i can stick my head in the fender well. I also found out they were put on backwards, people cant read "manifold side" I guess so thats why there all blown out, half the paper was missing on the metal backing on the driver side. I dont know what brand t her y are but they dont want to come out so im going to clean then up the best i can and get new gaskets tomarow and back it up with some copper rtv, I do not want to do this again lol. Thanks for everyones help, there such a p.i.t.a to get off, how the hell are you supposed to torque them? Im just going to use german torque specs (goodentight) but am still curious how you guys do it.
I can get to all my 32 bolts by using a 3/8'' standard open / box end combo wrench. I'm running Stan's 22Y headers on my truck and the passenger side is easy. The drivers side is a different story. I can get to all those bolts, but I have to lay under the truck either from the front or the rear for some of the lower bolts. The hardest one to reach is the one that's between the header and the oil filter. I can barely reach it, but if I have to remove the bolt to change the header gaskets...then it's time for an oil change too. Much easier to work that bolt without an oil filter in the way.