2000 F-250 Electrical Problems
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2000 F-250 Electrical Problems
Hey guys,
I have a 2000 F-250 4x4 7.3L. I had a dead battery last week, and thought nothing of it, checked my batteries, 1 was good, 1 was weak. I replaced the weak one and the truck fired. The next morning, both batteries were dead again. The volt meter reads around 14 when truck is running so alternator ok right? No lights left on over night, nothing.
Batteries, test out good, but are both dead after the truck sits for 8 - 10 hours.
My buddy told me to disconnect 1 battery, and then disconnect the positive terminal on the other, and hook a test light from the cable to the post, if the light was on, then something was pulling power. Sure enough, light came on, so one by one, i pulled each fuse and relay, but the light would never go out. Then i unhooked the alternator, light still stayed on.
I have no accessories hooked to this truck, it is still as stock as the day i drove it off the dealer yard.
PLEASE HELP.
thanks.
I have a 2000 F-250 4x4 7.3L. I had a dead battery last week, and thought nothing of it, checked my batteries, 1 was good, 1 was weak. I replaced the weak one and the truck fired. The next morning, both batteries were dead again. The volt meter reads around 14 when truck is running so alternator ok right? No lights left on over night, nothing.
Batteries, test out good, but are both dead after the truck sits for 8 - 10 hours.
My buddy told me to disconnect 1 battery, and then disconnect the positive terminal on the other, and hook a test light from the cable to the post, if the light was on, then something was pulling power. Sure enough, light came on, so one by one, i pulled each fuse and relay, but the light would never go out. Then i unhooked the alternator, light still stayed on.
I have no accessories hooked to this truck, it is still as stock as the day i drove it off the dealer yard.
PLEASE HELP.
thanks.
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2008
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From: No.Va.
When you test for a draw like that,everything has to off.(switches)
And if you are doing it with the door open,the test light will stay on.
(the door open will turn on the dome light).
Also a better practice to replace batteries in pairs.
And if you are doing it with the door open,the test light will stay on.
(the door open will turn on the dome light).
Also a better practice to replace batteries in pairs.
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Thanks for the help, both of you.
The battery that i didnt replace is less than 6 months old and is in great condition according to my battery tester.
I removed the fuses for the dome light, and the light under the hood before starting the process.
I will try to figure out how to disconnect the big wires from the glow plug and the AIH relays today at the shop. Unfortunately, im not a mechanic, i grow plants for a living.
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You might be wasting your time with that test light...
Get a clamp-on style multimeter and measure actual current draw.... that way you can tell the difference between the radio clock pulling little amps and a glow plug pulling big amps. You can even measure current in individual wires.
Get a clamp-on style multimeter and measure actual current draw.... that way you can tell the difference between the radio clock pulling little amps and a glow plug pulling big amps. You can even measure current in individual wires.
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You might be wasting your time with that test light...
Get a clamp-on style multimeter and measure actual current draw.... that way you can tell the difference between the radio clock pulling little amps and a glow plug pulling big amps. You can even measure current in individual wires.
Get a clamp-on style multimeter and measure actual current draw.... that way you can tell the difference between the radio clock pulling little amps and a glow plug pulling big amps. You can even measure current in individual wires.
Thanks! Will try that next.
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