Where are you from???

Here is the deal on the SD turbo. They aren't as good as our stockers are and heres why.. the SD exhaust housing is smaller and the compressor wheel is less aggressive. The smaller exhaust housing creates quite a bit higher EGTs, less top end performance, and create more backpressure which hurts performance. If i were you I'd just stick with the stock turbo. My stock turbo has 317k miles on it and my truck has dyno'd almost 400hp with it... You could put a larger housing on the SD turbo, put our compressor wheel in it and be close, but by the time you do that whats the point?? now you have a turbo just like ours with the 3" compressor housing(assuming your turbo is from a late 99-03). It would work OK, but would waste more money than it's worth IMO.

Glowshift guages.... LOL. My cousin had them in his truck... He melted a piston soon after for some reason and he said his EGT guage NEVER got over 600*.. wonder how the piston got hot enough to melt?? just my thoughts on the matter. something else could have happened, but i'd almost guarantee his EGTs got hotter than that after seeing how he drove it. haha

TDP would be an excellent choice to reburn your chip. He lived tuned mine awhile back and i couldn't be happier.

If your looking for a budget friendly daily driver here is my thoughts. Get some good guages(ISSPRO or Autometer), get the exhaust done(3" downpipe, 4" straight pipe), intake(6637 mod), FPR shim, stage 1 injectors from Jim @ Rosewood, TE modded 17* HPOP, intercooler, your stock turbo, install chip. If you wait to have the chip reburned til you injectors and stuff are done then that will save you time on sending the chip in for reburns after injectors and HPOP. Down the road you could do electric fuel for reliability, but the stock fuel system will work for stage 1 or 2 injectors. that setup should get you around a 350hp truck that can do whatever you want it to do anytime.. stage 2 injectors instead of stage 1's would get you up to around 380-390hp, but would put more strain on the turbo over time..

These are just suggestions of things I would/have done and they work well. If you want to do things differently good deal

 

i live in georgetown.

haha thats funny. well i found a package deal that included a piller and 3 gauges for $200. and my friend that told me about deathrow told me about a place in hutto that he went to for his truck ('99 cummins PDP truck). its called fleet pride and he said i can get all the tubing for under $80.

i dont know what a 6637 mod, FPR shim, or TE modded 17* HPOP* is.

i have the innercooler and all the tubing of the truck i got it off of. do you think it will hook straight up to my turbo? and yeah im thinking about getting the stage 1's. and i was also planning on leaving the chip in for a little bit anyways so i could see how big the difference is when i get it reburned. (should be here tomorrow or the day after, im very excited)

and the reason i was wondering if i could hang around the shop is because i really want to learn about diesels more instead of being on my own. my friend (a ex-master diesel tech from ford) has been extremly busy to help me anymore. i dont really know how yall work but my understanding is that yall are a group of good guys that all have the same love for diesels. thats hard to come by for a high school student. none of my friends know anything about mechanics. so maybe you could talk to whoever runs DRD and see what he thinks. id like to help with builds and learn, maybe become a inmate and get a decal and rep deathrow.

 

All the mods Travis listed is about what I have in my truck. I love my truck the way it is now, like a new truck. I know travis doesn't like the glowshift gauges, but I can't complain about mine. I have no issues with mine, but maybe that's just me?

6637 mod is a new intake and filter, quite cheap, contact Clay at Riffraff for help there.

FPR shim is fuel pressure shim. Check your fuel pressure with a tire gauge at the schrader valve on the FPR, which is beside the fuel bowl. If below 45psi you can stick a bb in behind the spring which is behind the big plug on the g fpr

TE modded 17*hpop is a high pressure oil pump off of a super duty that gets modded from Joey for a very reasonable price.

 

thanks. does the 6637 mod acctually help? im assuming its just a homemade cold air intake. i was thinking about getting a new intake but my friend stands by the stock intake and said that the stock is better

also will look into shiming once IDM is back in, still waiting on chip. I took it out last night, took cover off, and cleaned plug with brake cleaner and q-tips. how do i know if its clean enough? it looks the same before and after. i have a feeling the truck had performance parts on it before i bought it. the plug looks like its been cleaned before, there is a wire that was cut coming from the fuse panel(looks like gauges). well anyways back to the shim. i just went and looked and i found the valve but if its below 45 psi what do i do from there? what do i take off and where is the bb placed?

anyone know the best route to go for front end? mine needs to be replaced and i wanted to put a straight axle in instead of the I-beam. also after front end i would like to get mild lift. and atleast 35's. probably keep stock rims cause they dont look bad and to same money.

also have been hearing noise when turning. sounds like its in the hub but not sure. ive heard clicks and ive heard squeeks

 

Stock air cleaner is junk, period. Lets dust and other crap into the turbo, I had to rebuild mine and put a new wheel on as it happened to me. Ask anyone on here, 6637 is the way to go for sure.

Front end you'll want a D60 out of an I think 86-97 F350 will work.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...fuse-help.html
Look at that thread, post 4 for a pic. Take the big headed bolt (where it says FPR in the pic) and take the spring out and put a bb behind it.

Not sure what to say on the noise...

 

Your intercooler pipes will not fit in without lengthening one side and shrotening the other. The spyder pipe must be from an early 1999 PSD that have the smaller intake plenums like ours.

 

If your from Georgetown then I can show you some things on these trucks sometime to help you learn about them, just don't know when quite yet. The only time that we work in the DRD shop is on Fridays usually late at night. Like from around midnight to close to 6AM. LOL As far as coming out to the shop or any of that stuff you need to talk with Cody about that. His screen name on here is Rubberduck

Seeing that your pretty new to all of this and it seems like we might be blowing your mind a little bit with all these terms and telling you what will work and what won't lets break this down a little bit and slow down....

Here are the first couple steps you should take with the truck with the mods...

1. Intake-- For the intake most 7.3 owners do the 6637 mod i mentioned before(This is also called a Tymar intake when the intake is bought from Dale @ Tymar Performance). this involves simply using a short piece of 4" pipe bent at a 45* angle, getting rid of the stock air box, and mounting a part number 6637 air filter to that 4" piece of pipe. Clay at Riff Raff Diesel has a nice kit for this and so does Dale at Tymar Performance. Main thing is just to get rid of the factory intake. The factory air box is junk and doesn't seal correctly allowing dust to bypass the filter and straight into the turbo..

2. FPR shim-- This is simply shimming the FPR(fuel pressure regulator) to get more fuel pressure. Basically you want to up the fuel pressure up to what IH called for originally for the T444E which is around 60-70psi. Our trucks usually have around 40-50psi... This one i can show you anytime and only takes a few minutes to do. Its kinda weird to explain without pics is why i say that.

3. Exhaust-- You need to get rid of the stock downpipe at all costs. The stock pipe is squished down really bad from the factory between the engine and firewall. Tymar Performance has some pretty nice downpipes. Don't get drug into the cheaper downpipes like the MBRP, get something that is a good quality like the Tymar or I think Grand Rock makes a downpipe for us too. From there you just need a 4" exhaust which you can also get from Tymar as well.

4. Guages-- get an EGT and boost guage since you have a manual trans you don't need the trans temp. You want to keep an eye on these things when you have a chip in the truck so I'd suggest getting this done before you put that chip in the truck.

I'm going to stop right there b/c those are the things you should be focusing on right now before you start with chips, injectors, etc.

 

so putting a bb in there raises the fuel pressure to force more fuel thru the injectors? it seems weird that a pretty much zero doller upgarde would make a differnce.

whats the price range for a D60?

so there is no way intercooler pipes will fit unless its of a early 99? and how would you shorten/lengthen those if i had to? fab or buy new?

 

travis-

ive been around diesels all my life and known a good amount for my age. its just that i have had to figure out everything for myself until recently i met a diesel tech and i became his assitant at christian brothers but schools about to start for me so i had to quit and hes been extremly busy and hasnt been able to helo much anymore. just a little background info haha.

well anyways i was definitly going to get a new downpipe and exhaust. but i was going to pull the cab but like i said the guy that was helping me has been to busy (he has a shop and lift at his house). he calls it a "pan-cake pipe" haha.
as far as the shim goes i went out and looked at it seems pretty simple but i have the IDM out so im just waiting for the chip then ill cheack the pressure.im not worried about the egt's right now because i dont drive it enough for that to be a problem. i still think im going to get that gauge package from glowshift. so turbo 0-35psi or 0-60(35 right?), egt 0-1500 or 0-2400, and is there any other gauge i would need? and ill definitly look into the intake

 

any 7.3 or even 6.0 (7.3 pipes would fit easier) pipes will work for the ic, just may have to cut and weld or get a boot and some clamps. Usually just have to lengthen a little, depends how the ic gets mounted. The spyder has to be off of an early 99.

Yep, the bb does what you said. I haven't put one in, mine checked out at 72lbs

A D60 will run anywhere from 500-1500. Depends who has it, where it is, etc.........

 

wow 72 seems really good. well im eager to see what mine is. and thats not a bad range.

 

You do not need to pull your cab to work on anything on your truck.. Installing the downpipe isn't a bad process just got to massage the seam of the firewall a little, but still no reason to bother pulling the cab off.

I guess if you trust your engines life to those Glowshift guages then go ahead, but you will need to make sure you have plenty of extra electrical wire, connectors, and probably a different line to use in place of their boost line. Their boost line sucks and leaks pretty bad. Then hope the EGT guage tells you the truth so that you don't melt a piston in that engine.

Quick question... Why do you have the IDM out????

 

if you remember,i had a problem with a glowshift boost gauge. i ended up connecting it up to 90psi on my air compressor to get it to move. POS!!!

 

My brothers Glowshift boost guage busted not long ago. They are in his sled truck so they don't get used often at all. Cousin's EGT guage apparently never got over 600*, but he melted a piston anyways... IMO it's not worth risking expensive engine parts to save a little bit of money on a guage just so you can say you have guages.. I'd rather have quality guages. LOL

 

I'm not saying the glowshift are great, but I have had no issues with mine, boost line works fine, egt's seem right, trans seems right. I will say if I didn't get them as a CHRISTMAS PRESENT, or if I thought one wasn't quite right, or any doubts at all, I would change them.

I'm not trying to start an arguement or anything, just stating how mine are. They've only been in 7 months now so I'll keep an eye on them for sure. I'm getting a scan gauge soon so I can compare egts (I think that scan gauge does that).