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The inside of my truck has an ugly and useless aftermarket trailer brake box thingy that is attatched to the bottom of the dash. I disconected the wires and removed the brackets that held it inplace but I still can't figure out how to remove the small silver tube that runs from the dash to the box itself. Any ideas?
Since that is an aftermarket part, there is no standard answer. Please post some pics, or describe it in more detail. What is the silver "tube," and where on the dash does it go?
that silver tube is most likely a brake line attached under the hood near the master cylinder. The older brake controller systems used to tap in to the brakes this way. You'll need to trace that line down and either cap where it is attached or possibly remove the piece that taps it in to the system and reattach the brake line to the stock position. Hopefully this helps. Finally a question right up my alley!
that silver tube is most likely a brake line attached under the hood near the master cylinder. The older brake controller systems used to tap in to the brakes this way. You'll need to trace that line down and either cap where it is attached or possibly remove the piece that taps it in to the system and reattach the brake line to the stock position. Hopefully this helps. Finally a question right up my alley!
x2
My 78 supercab was set up this way. If I remember correctly the line went to the master cylinder and a T fitting was installed with some unions. You should be able to simply remove the T fitting or whatever mess the PO left you and reinstall the brake line in the master.
Okay, the line does tap into the master cylinder by a metal fitting. The question is how do I remove the lines from the fitting and attatch te main line to the master cylinder? I used almost every tool imaginable but the pieces wont mudge.
Okay, the line does tap into the master cylinder by a metal fitting. The question is how do I remove the lines from the fitting and attatch te main line to the master cylinder? I used almost every tool imaginable but the pieces wont mudge.
Mosty likely the fittings have melted(rusted) to the brake lines. You can try some good penetrating fluid (WD 40 is not a penatrating fluid BTW) like PB blaster or liquid Wrench. Soak the fitting(s) for a couple days and use a flair wrench if the fitting still has square corners. If the fitting is rounded over you will need another game plan!
This is a case where a picture is worth its weight in gold (advise).
I'd be willing to bet that you will have to cutt the old line out and replace it. Not really a big deal as this should be a short line going down to the proportioning valve. You can buy a new line with ends already installed and form it to fit your truck.
If its that rusted, its probably not something you wanna reuse. it only takes a tiny hole for you to lose brake pressure... but if its worth saving your best bet may be vicegrips, if the flare wrench fails.
i love they hydrolic/electric actuators they were the smothest controler out there i shure wish they made one now although they do make one who wants to spend 400+ dollard on the brake smart or max brake controlers! does you controler work?
Okay, since nothing seems to work I'm thinking about taking it in to a shop and have them fix it because I really don't have the time between school and work to hassle with it. Questin is, how much wold pepboys or Firestone charge to remove the extra brake line and fitting as wells as reconnect the origonal brake line back to it's origional position?
step one: soak your fittings in kroil tonight, and tomorrow when you wake up.
step two: go to napa in the morning and order a prebent brake line, its a short line and will probably be less than $50.
step three: soak your fittings in kroil again tomorrow night.
step four: buy a big set (10" long) vice grip pliers by vice grip/irwin. Not junky ones. Should be like $20.
Step five: clamp vice grips down hard on fittings and turn out. If it starts to strip you aren't clamped tight enough. If it won't budge, tap gently with a small hammer. Eventually it will turn out.
Step six: turn in new fittings by hand, then turn them a couple turns with a wrench till they are tight
Step seven: fill master cyl and bleed brakes, making sure to add fluid as you go along.
Step eight: Put your new vice grips and can of kroil in your toolbox. Throw old brake controller on ground and stomp on it. Celebrate with cake, beer, or victory sex.
step one: soak your fittings in kroil tonight, and tomorrow when you wake up.
step two: go to napa in the morning and order a prebent brake line, its a short line and will probably be less than $50.
step three: soak your fittings in kroil again tomorrow night.
step four: buy a big set (10" long) vice grip pliers by vice grip/irwin. Not junky ones. Should be like $20.
Step five: clamp vice grips down hard on fittings and turn out. If it starts to strip you aren't clamped tight enough. If it won't budge, tap gently with a small hammer. Eventually it will turn out.
Step six: turn in new fittings by hand, then turn them a couple turns with a wrench till they are tight
Step seven: fill master cyl and bleed brakes, making sure to add fluid as you go along.
Step eight: Put your new vice grips and can of kroil in your toolbox. Throw old brake controller on ground and stomp on it. Celebrate with cake, beer, or victory sex.
Thanks. I finally removed the extra brake line, caped of the hole and bleeded the breaks. The breaks are no working like a charm.
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