Cmon im trying to be serious.

 

I got a question for you guys...when you say you're doing burnouts...do you guys mean WOT from a stand still and leaving a set of parallels or power braking. Cuz I'll say I've had/owned just about any configuration dentside stock and modified out there between gears (2.75's-5.13's), trannies (autos and manuals), t-case (205/203/none) and engines (300-521)...and not too many of them could lay a patch or parallels from a stand still. Power braking is another story.


C'mon now, the M blocks can be respectable. Take a look around Bubba's M Block or any of TMI's info he's posted. Most folks compare a desmogged 460 to a smogged up 351M...but that's just not fair, I surely hope an engine with 109 more cubic inches and can breathe easier stomps the lesser foe. But if you'll bring that to a 400 vs. 460 comparing apples to apples more or less...you'll see the 400 has at least 90% of the power a 460 has lower in the power band. So until you start talking strokers...you can build a comparable 400 to a 460 for the same price no less.

 

Well dont ya think a DESMOGGED straight up timed, headers, intake and carb should open up my M block enough to Break torque 'em loose?

 

I've spent a lot of time at the race track with stick shift Mustangs and I either do that or dump the clutch then hit the brake. Its not hard with a stick at all. You can even shift through the gears hitting the brake in between if you want.

My truck will smoke the tires from a roll no problem but it wheel hops too bad to keep it going. Anyone else have that problem? I probably just need to get my suspension set up a little better.

 

You checked the compression on them cylinders lately? I bet you're not getting half the performance you think you are. But if it's a fresh rebuild, I guess I'd be wrong. Hell, I've had a 351M before with similar mods as yours, nothing seemed obviously wrong...other than it just being old. Had really low compression numbers straight across the board...hooked it up on my buddy's dyno...didn't even crack 3 digit hp...iirc it was right around 92hp. Bore job, rings and pistons and added a cam with the same bolt ons...more than doubled the numbers...IIRC 190ish hp. The point of that was...sometimes engines just get old and worn out.

 

Well, on this topic, what should i be getting for compression?

 

That's kinda tough to put a figure on...but from what I've seen from fresh 351M/400 rebuilds, they're between 120-150psi. That being said, the bigger judge is the difference between cylinders, meaning if 7 are even reading at 95psi, the 8th shouldn't read at 20psi. I've heard some guys say there should only be a 10% difference between the highest read and the lowest...and I've also heard up to a 25% difference. I try to stay around 10%.

 

I did a compression test on my 351m. Seven of them were between 105-125 but the other was at 10. Ouch. Thats when it came out.
I seriously tried to get someone to trade me a pizza for it with no takers so I gave it to my uncle for free.

 

you can do a standing burnout with a 6spd and never move the car...

Here is a video of my 03 Cobra...

YouTube - 03 Cobra Burnout 1-3 gear

 

Heck no I cant do a burn out!!!!
I just got the carbs rebuilt and WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! much better
but still acceleration SUCKS
She goes but not enough power to get it to a burn out.
Going to mess with the timing and go from there.

 

Best way to help a vehicle do a "powerbrake," from my experience, is to add a line-lock. It keeps the engine from having to fight the holding power of the rear brakes.

 

No power breaking here, just WOT in the bronc,and 3/4 throttle in the 150 with the 460

The 150 is a LS rear, so it does spin both as far as it goes, but i can't leave black marks....

 

I didn't do it but a couple of times since my neighbors are humorless, but when I had the worn-out Scorpions on my truck, the 360 would roast one tire on the open diff pretty good (and easily!) with the automatic. Had to do it in my driveway so nobody could raise cain about black marks on the public street. That's when it helps to have a driveway that goes uphill at a good angle, though aiming at the house was a bit unnerving...

I haven't tried it with the manual, and I probably won't since I have brand new tires. However, I still have the old wheels and recap rear mud/snow treads that I bought it with. Burning out with those might be a quick and easy way to remove the bed.

 

To the Original Poster...if you have full time 4wd / hubs, take off your front driveline. My Dad's '76 F-150 with a 390 would not even spin in gravel until we took the front driveline out.

My '75 with no bed and bald skinnies would do a single tire 1/4 mile burnout. I would be in 3rd gear doing about 55 before they stopped spinning...man that was fun!

 

No its part time, and i was in 2wd and i couldnt get it too