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Fluctuating idle (intermittent)

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Old Aug 15, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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Fluctuating idle (intermittent)

Hi guys,

I started experiencing an erratic idle (fluctuates ~200 RPM) at idle and when in gear. I have an EGR delete and still get the CEL since I have not purchased a custom SCT to remove that from the strategy. I am getting P0401 and P0069 which are very common since I did my EGR delete.

It all kinda started happening since I last reported the very difficult "cold starts" this last winter. I plug it in, its all great...I dont and watch out. Many of you recommended changing over to synthetic and getting the newest flash which I have not done. I am waiting to switch to synthetic soon and getting the flash when I get around to it.

The fluctuating idle is very intermittent.....it can be cold or right off the road....A/C on or off.

Any ideas?

Thanks
Joe
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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Bringing it back to the top.....maybe cheezit or Mchan68 can comment. Thanks guys
 
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Old Aug 16, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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I would check your fuel pressure for a start. If you haven't already done so, it wouldn't hurt to install the updated fuel pressure regulator kit that bumps up pressure from 55 psi to 65 psi. You could also have a biased ICP sensor. Check your ICP psi, ICP volts, ICP desired and IPR duty cycle PIDs when the symptom occurs and post your findings.
 
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Old Aug 17, 2010 | 07:11 AM
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fuel pressure update kit.....man this is why I come here, for the great people with great advice

Any chance you have that part number anywhere?


As for the other stuff....I just burned up my meter and I don't think I have the tools to check the items you suggested
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 05:50 PM
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Can anyone help me with the part number for the updated fuel pressure stuff M-chan68 mentioned?

Maybe Ed from Y2kparts?


Thanks
Joe
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 05:57 PM
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3C3Z-9T517-AG
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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Thank you Mark....have you personally installed this kit?
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 06:00 PM
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No, I installed the bb. But I do think the updated spring (kit) is the best way to go (and it is not too costly).

I will say though, that I would bet your idle issue is more on the oil side, but the spring is a MUST HAVE for fuel pressure and injector health.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by joe blow
Can anyone help me with the part number for the updated fuel pressure stuff M-chan68 mentioned?

Maybe Ed from Y2kparts?


Thanks
Joe

Just received mine a few days ago from Ed. Didn't install it yet..Want to add a fuel pressure gauge first to see the difference
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by bismic
No, I installed the bb. But I do think the updated spring (kit) is the best way to go (and it is not too costly).
the BB is $0.10 and is good for 10-15 psi depending on your pump. The spring kit is how much????? $75????. I think the BB does just fine. I ran one for a LOT of miles.....until I just ran out of pump.
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by npccpartsman
the BB is $0.10 and is good for 10-15 psi depending on your pump. The spring kit is how much????? $75????. I think the BB does just fine. I ran one for a LOT of miles.....until I just ran out of pump.
Thanks for the post Tim. I agree with you, but the Techs here do make a good point. If they get a truck in for repair and they have to take apart the regulator, they are not going to be thinking about being careful to make sure the BB doesn't fall somewhere "bad".
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 09:39 PM
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Bismic,

You say that my problem may be on the oil side I still run regular 15w40 but plan on changing to synthetic soon.....what did you have in mind?

Also you went with a BB.....dumb question but what is it and where does it go?

Sorry for all the dumb questions but I have been away from the site way too long!
Thanks for the help
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by joe blow
Bismic,

You say that my problem may be on the oil side I still run regular 15w40 but plan on changing to synthetic soon.....what did you have in mind?

Also you went with a BB.....dumb question but what is it and where does it go?

Sorry for all the dumb questions but I have been away from the site way too long!
Thanks for the help
I admit that I am guessing, but your symptoms often times are related to ICP or IPR issues.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 595pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=793 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 595pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 28032" width=793><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.6pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; WIDTH: 595pt; HEIGHT: 13.6pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=18 width=793>HOW I DID THE BB MOD (6mm BB and not ,177)</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 246.6pt; mso-height-source: userset" height=329><TD style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #d4d0c8; BORDER-LEFT: #d4d0c8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ff99cc; WIDTH: 595pt; HEIGHT: 246.6pt; BORDER-TOP: #d4d0c8; BORDER-RIGHT: #d4d0c8" class=xl24 height=329 width=793>I did not remove the upper radiator hose. It was a little bit of a pain, but less of one than draining coolant IMO.

1. Remove the air filter housing (filter and all) out (remove the coolant filter return line at the degas bottle, disconnect the MAF sensor, remove the filter minder, disconnect the air filter from the turbo inlet tube - then remove the filter housing)
2. Loosen the CAC tube from the intake elbow. Loosen the other end of the CAC tube (below the air filter housing) and pull the CAC tube away from the intake elbow - rotate it to get it out of the way.
3. Remove the fuel from the secondary fuel filter w/ a turkey baster.
4. Disconnect the fuel line from the pressure regulator housing
5. Remove the two bottom T27 bolts from the regulator housing first. In fact, remove the one that is protected by the upper radiator hose first. It is easier to remove it all the way out with the other bolts still in. I used a short T27 Torx bit inserted in a 1/4 inch ratcheting wrench (the kind you buy for small battery terminals). Then remove the other bottom bolt. For this I used a ratchet with the small Torx bit inserted in a 1/4 inch socket.
6. Then slowly remove the two upper bolts. I did one part way, went to the other part way, etc to try to work them out somewhat evenly
7. When you almost get them out, work slowly and keep some pressure on the regulator housing if possible, the spring will try to push it off.
8. get the housing plate off, remove the o-ring carefully, clean it and oil it. Remove the o-ring from the fuel line connection, clean it and oil it.
9. Remove the spring and the plastic poppet. I cleaned and oiled the o-ring o the poppet also. Put the bb and the spring in the poppet and re-insert. The WSM stated to clean the hole that the poppet came out of, but I didn't bother.
10. Re-assemble in reverse. Do not over tighten things, but make sure they are snug.

I put paper towels under the regulator area since you will lose fuel - even after sucking as much out of the filter housing as possible.


</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 10:00 PM
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It seems like alot of labor to install the BB and not update the pressure regulator update kit. So....is the BB an option/alternative to the updated regulator kit or should both be done?

Thank you for the help
Joe
 
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Old Aug 18, 2010 | 10:26 PM
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One or the other - labor is the same for each.
 
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