Hot Tanking.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: mt. shasta california
Hot Tanking.
I finally got my engine pulled and i understand that if I want to paint it, it would be a good idea to get it hot tanked. From what I understand this involves putting the engine in boiling NaHO (Sodium Hydroxide) or CaHO (Calcium Hydroxide). This just doesnt sound safe to me. Do people do it on their own? If not, where can I get it done? And do you remove the pistons and the crank and what not before doing it? I am assuming any aluminum parts would be no good.
Last edited by erikl85; Feb 15, 2003 at 12:54 PM.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 3,351
Likes: 1
From: Escondido, CA
Hot Tanking.
Poor man method is to use easy-off oven cleaner. Not the fume free stuff but the stuff that makes you want to gag when you get a good whiff. takes all the grease and baked on crap right off. Then hit it with paint thinner to get rid of the oils left by your fingers. Just FYI. Also keep it off of aluminum for any extended period of time. It works great to remove corosion off of it though.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Hot Tanking.
Hot tanking is a job for professionals, and any bearings in the block will get dissolved.
If you can find it... there was a process called Redi Strip that used a cyanide salt based solution(yeah the poison stuff). It works incredibly well. My old cast iron engine came out looking like aluminum, wow was it clean. Don't know if anyone does this anymore, but it beats the heck out of hot tanking. Be sure to wash off all the salt and it IS poison, no pets please.
Last time I heard of it was in the 80s when I played more seriously with my engines. They were in Rosemead Ca, but I think they moved or shut down.
Hot tanking is OK, but that stuff was amazing, but cost 5X the price.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
If you can find it... there was a process called Redi Strip that used a cyanide salt based solution(yeah the poison stuff). It works incredibly well. My old cast iron engine came out looking like aluminum, wow was it clean. Don't know if anyone does this anymore, but it beats the heck out of hot tanking. Be sure to wash off all the salt and it IS poison, no pets please.
Last time I heard of it was in the 80s when I played more seriously with my engines. They were in Rosemead Ca, but I think they moved or shut down.
Hot tanking is OK, but that stuff was amazing, but cost 5X the price.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Hot Tanking.
Don't know specifics on the 460, but in general you want to make sure you don't allow the rod bolts, rods or anything metal to scrape or ding the crank bearing surfaces. Once you get all the caps and seals off it should lift out pretty easy, ooofh. Don't drop it.
You might send the crank out to micropolished, chamfered, radiused and magnafluxed or if it is pretty much stock and in good condition just mic the joournals to check for wear. Of course if you are careful and know what you are doing, you can do the polishing, chamfering and radiusing your self.
A quickie test for a bad crank is to gently tap it on a concrete floor, should ring like a bell.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
You might send the crank out to micropolished, chamfered, radiused and magnafluxed or if it is pretty much stock and in good condition just mic the joournals to check for wear. Of course if you are careful and know what you are doing, you can do the polishing, chamfering and radiusing your self.
A quickie test for a bad crank is to gently tap it on a concrete floor, should ring like a bell.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
From: umatilla or
Hot Tanking.
also keep all of the rod and main caps in order. they HAVE to go back on in the same location and point the same direction they were when you took them off. i use a number stamp set to mark mine if they arent marked
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 325
Likes: 0
From: mt. shasta california
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 2,882
Likes: 0
From: Nevada
Hot Tanking.
Just get it turned .010 under on the journals and mains. The shop will polish and chamfer it as part of the grinding. $150 or so and you'll have a 'new' crank.
You'll have to remove the crank for balancing, so take it in with the rods, pisons, rings and balancer and tell them to turn it before balancing the assembly.
You'll have to remove the crank for balancing, so take it in with the rods, pisons, rings and balancer and tell them to turn it before balancing the assembly.
Postmaster
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 4,968
Likes: 3
From: So Cal
Hot Tanking.
Don't know current methods, but back in the 70s/80s, to do a home micropolish and chamfering just required a steady hand, a dremel tool and stones(for chamfering) and some fine wet/dry sandpaper.
You want to break the sharp edge(if there is one) on all the oil holes with the dremel tool.
To micropolish use very fine sandpaper. I used 600 3M paper, the dark grey stuff. Using some light oil on each journal, I would wrap a piece of paper around the journal and then use a long cloth wrapped around that and then I would pull back and forth on the ends of the cloth to turn the paper to polish the journals. After you are done, clean it off and mic it to make sure of the bearing set you will need. No need for a lot of muscle, you don't want to remove much material, just polish it up.
Be sure to coat the journals with some rust protectant while the crank is out of the engine.
Back in the 70s, a micropolish, chanfer adn magnaflux cot all of about $20.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
You want to break the sharp edge(if there is one) on all the oil holes with the dremel tool.
To micropolish use very fine sandpaper. I used 600 3M paper, the dark grey stuff. Using some light oil on each journal, I would wrap a piece of paper around the journal and then use a long cloth wrapped around that and then I would pull back and forth on the ends of the cloth to turn the paper to polish the journals. After you are done, clean it off and mic it to make sure of the bearing set you will need. No need for a lot of muscle, you don't want to remove much material, just polish it up.
Be sure to coat the journals with some rust protectant while the crank is out of the engine.
Back in the 70s, a micropolish, chanfer adn magnaflux cot all of about $20.
Good Luck,
Jim Henderson
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 760
Likes: 0
From: Boise, ID
Hot Tanking.
If all you want to do is paint the engine then just use the oven cleaner idea or find yourself a GOOD pressure washer (around 2800 psi will get off almost any crud).
I wouldn't tear apart a good running engine so I could hot tank it just to paint it. As many others have said already, you'll run into additional expenses beyond the $50-$100 a shop will charge you to tank your engine.
I wouldn't tear apart a good running engine so I could hot tank it just to paint it. As many others have said already, you'll run into additional expenses beyond the $50-$100 a shop will charge you to tank your engine.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Nathan511
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
5
Dec 8, 2016 11:09 PM
Old Brown Truck
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
6
Oct 31, 2015 10:30 PM
coolfeet
6.0L Power Stroke Diesel
1
Sep 10, 2015 04:54 AM
MAKO314
Bio-diesel, Propane & Alternative Diesel Engine Fuels
10
Jun 10, 2009 08:32 AM
