First of all I would like to say thanks to all for the great info that is provided here. I have read almost all posts concerning the 7.3 starting and running problems. With that said, I still cannot nail down what is wrong with mine, so here is a list of everything I have done (that I can remember)

new cps, old one was probably good, scanner shows rpms when trying to start (200+)

new ipr, scanner shows 16mpa when tring to start( I think this should be 500psi,conversion says its over 2000psi, not sure if thats correct)

new icp, no change in pressure reading

took valve covers off and did 2 quarter fix but they were in solid so no difference

new fuel filter and tank was not low but filled to top anyhow

hpop oil level is .25 from top

changed oil and filter while sitting in garage with no start

fuel pump sends fuel to filter bowl and scanner shows %100 on fuel pump

pulled all fuses and inspected, they were all fine

there are probably somemore things I did and forgot to list here

It seemed to be running a little weak on power and so I changed the fuel filter at the engine and immediately after that it started to get much worse, so much so that I drove it back to my work garage and that is where it chugged to a stop and hasn't done anything more than an extremely ruff idle for a few seconds and that was after many attemps to restart with a battery charger being hooked to it continuosly. Cleaned the filter bowl and put another new filter in.

Any help would be appreciated

Thank You

 

When did you change CPS? was it after the no start, or awhile back. If it was awhile back than try another one. Do you have any codes? Other's will chime in.

 

What codes are you getting? Have you cleared them and see which ones come back? Any smoke while cranking. Welcome to FTE!

 

changed the cps after no start, I read somewhere in here that the cps is working if the scanner reads rpm's, which it does.

it isn't throwing any codes, which doesn't seem to make sense to me.

Glad to have such a quick response.

All input is appreciated and thanks for taking the time.

 

It's kinda weird about the smoke, sometimes when I crank it there's white smoke, other times a little black smoke, smells like diesel exhaust to me, I have about 15 diesel engines at home between tractors and tandem dumps but this is the only powerstroke. Bought it over 2 years ago and this is the first bit of trouble.

 

Welcome to FTE. When you changed the fuel filter did you drain the fuel bowl? You said you cleaned it, how bad was it? What are you using to read codes? Are you getting the WTS light when you turn the key?

 

I didn't clean the fuel bowl till I was working on the not starting problem. I sucked the extra fuel out and the took out the stand up pipe and the heater then cleaned it with some towels, it wasn't very dirty, just a little black gunk that would barely cover 1 finger.

I have a Mac scanner, I don't know if it's a good one but it was cheap at the time, it will do a buzz test and quite a few other tests that I'm not to familiar with.

The glow pulg light (if thats what the wts light is) comes on and then goes off after 5 to 10 seconds like it always has.

 

This doesn't sound like an easy one. Reading your story, things seem to have gone from, I have an issue to not running in short order after replacing the fuel filter. Since scanners can't monitor fuel and air (you can watch fuel injector pulse width, but that only helps so much) I'd start with the fuel bowl.

What specific brand of filter did you take out and what brand did you replace it with? When you "cleaned" it, is there any chance you damaged the heater wire? This doesn't sound like a bad fuel bowl heater, but go ahead and change that fuse and unplug the fuel bowl heater just for good measure so we can definitely rule that out.

Next, what about the stand pipe? There's an assembly in the fuel bowl that prevents fuel from going to the heads if a filter is not installed in the bowl. Could you have broken or left something out when you cleaned it up? Have you tried rigging up a fuel pressure gauge and monitoring that with the key on and while cranking?

 

I've been replacing the filter every 5000 miles or so, got them all from napa. Would the heater wire keep it from starting? It hasn't been below 80 degrees here during the day for quite a while. (PA) Why would unplugging it make a difference? I'm not saying I won't try it, I just wonder how that could make a difference.

I don't think I damaged the stand up pipe when I cleaned it, but it quit running before I cleaned it, not that during the changing of the filter previously I may have damaged it without knowing.

Where would the fuel pressure gauge need to be attached at? What kind of gauge would thread onto the fuel line fittings?

 

The power to the fuel bowl heater is on the same circuit as the power to the PCM (truck computer). If there's a short in the heater, it disrupts power to the PCM so the truck won't start. I'd have to look up what the fuse number is for the 2003 models, but that's why I said change the 30 amp fuse and unplug the heater since the heater can blow the fuse or affect the power to the PCM.

Unless you're getting really dirty fuel or you only drive 5,000 miles a year, I'd say you're changing the filter too often. I change mine every 15,000 miles.

I don't remember the fitting size, but there is a test port on the back of the fuel bowl that you can plumb a gauge into. 0 - 100 psi gauge will work fine.

 

Does the stand up tube in the filter bowl have fuel go down or up threw it? Also how does it stop the fuel if there isn't a filter installed? I only ask just in case something did brake off during my last filter change that I didn't notice or if something in that stand up tube could get stuck acting like theres no filter installed.

 

I called a local diesel mechanic that has done some work on other trucks I have (not my psd-though he said he has worked on them) and he said 1 bad injector would keep it from starting, would anyone out there agree with that? Also if I'm correct in reading the ipr/icp pressure at 16mpa or over 2000psi would that be too high a pressure or would that be within specs?

 

No 1 bad injector will not keep it from starting it will run a bit rough but will run. You need to see a minimum of 500 psi to start so you are good there.

 

Did you check to fuel heater fuse like said before, and are the batteries fully charged, or been load tested.

 

I did load test the batterys and I've kept it hooked to a battery charger

not sure which fuse is the one for the fuel bowl heater, looked through the book and it doesn't specify which it is

did the modification of taking the spring and insides out of the stand up pipe in the fuel bowl

still no start-not even a ruff idle

putting a pressure gauge on the fuel line next to where the lines come out of the fuel bowl. hope fully this will tell me something. Have to go to hardware store to find correct threads. will let you know what I find on pressure