1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

Stuck flatty no rust

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Old 08-12-2010, 08:33 AM
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Stuck flatty no rust

I have posted this before, but am puzzled by what I have found....I have been pouring PB blaster in the spark plug holes for some time now and have gone ahead and pulled the heads and intake to see what I am up against. There is no rust in the cylinders or the valley and the valves look good/clean, what else should I look for? Someone suggested I pull the starter which I will try to do this week, other than that, any ideas would be welcome.
Thanks,
w
 
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Old 08-12-2010, 08:36 AM
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The rings can be rusted to the walls without there being a lot of obvious rust. I'd drop the pan to make sure everything is good down there, too.
 
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by ALBUQ F-1
The rings can be rusted to the walls without there being a lot of obvious rust. I'd drop the pan to make sure everything is good down there, too.

What Ross say's

I had a nice clean engine inside and out but when I pulled the oil plug I got more water/antifreeze than oil. had a nice freeze crack in valley that filled block with water.

needless to say the crank mains and rods were rusted up pretty good.

good luck.
 
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:01 AM
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Ditto on the rings to cylinder walls. I once read that a tight, healthy engine would stick faster and tighter than a worn engine. The reason being the worn rings in a worn out engine would not wipe the cylinder walls as well as a tight engine. Haven't seen any scientific studies, but it well could be. I've seen engines that were stuck by the rings, which left a slight rust ring that was barely felt by fingernails.
 
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:12 AM
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In the old days they used kerosene in cylinders and let it stand a few days.
 
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Old 08-12-2010, 10:51 AM
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I would drop the starter and try turning the flywheel, if it doesnt move drop the pan and disconnect connecting rods and try freeing up one cylinder at a time. Make sure you reinstall caps as they came off. Since you have the heads off you can tap a 4x4 (corners knocked off) on the pistons. This way you will also know how your crank and bearings are.

Good Luck,
Bob
 
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Old 08-12-2010, 01:58 PM
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Thanks guys......more fun this weekend.
w
 
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Old 08-12-2010, 04:04 PM
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I would pull the fiber gear off the cam and try to turn it over. I've seen valves stuck in the guides. I had a cam brake in a F1 with a stuck V8 when we tried pulling it.
 
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Old 08-12-2010, 05:03 PM
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I would remove the transmission first, or at least have someone push in the clutch. My engine wouldn't budge because the input shaft on the transmission was seized.
 
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:23 PM
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BE PATIENT and keep using the Blaster and a very light weight oil. Maybe distributor is locked up? I'd pull starter and CAREFULLY thump the top of the pistons with a rounded out 4x4 or 2x4. I say carefully, because I've heard of people cracking pistons by the use of wood and mallet. Get a good long breaker bar about 2-3 ft. and give crankshaft front bolt "bouncing" nudges as days go on while soaking with penetrating fluids. Make sure you can visually see fluid sneaking around pistons and into rings and you will see fluids change color from crude that is holding your rings up.

Hope this helps
 




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