03 Expedition Strut Change
Postmaster
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: Chesapeake, Va.
From what I see in looking at the parts it is a pretty straight forward job. Just unbolt the shocks, remove and then install the new ones. I see no reason to bother the rear springs. The shocks do not have springs unless you buy the helper kit.
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Posting Guru
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It is coil over on both the front and back. Same for both my 03 and 04. I'll probably go the neighbor route.
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
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Use your buddy
I have an '03 Eddie Bauer Expy 4WD. I had Bilstein HDs put on by my mechanic/personal friend in June. I paid around $360 for the shocks from shockwarehouse.com and gave my guy maybe another $100...can't really remember. I was qouted $114 per shock from a local Ford dealer for OEMs. Sounds like the dealer service dept. was gonna take you to the cleaners if you let them ($380 for labor on that job is criminal)!
My Expy had 70K miles in June when I got the Bilsteins. They replaced OEM originals that were taking bumps in teeth-jarring fashion. Tremendous improvement in the ride. I did not replace the coils. Also, I just put a Hellwig rear stabilizer bar on mine and now the truck feels brand new.
Buy your Bilsteins yourself and have your GM tech buddy put them on. Hope this helps!
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Sounds like I'm doing the same thing you did. The shock warehouse price is the same that I found, and is the lowest from all the sources I've checked. Do you know how he dealt with the springs when he did the swap - remove? compress? Etc?
I don't fault the dealers for their prices, they have a lot to support in infrastructure to do business. It all comes at a price. There are jobs that are worthwhile to do with a dealer, others are more effective done elsewhere.
I don't fault the dealers for their prices, they have a lot to support in infrastructure to do business. It all comes at a price. There are jobs that are worthwhile to do with a dealer, others are more effective done elsewhere.
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Joined: Feb 2012
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may I ask how is the ride now?
I'm waiting for a set of Bilsteins on the way and I'm confused whether to change the coil springs or not. it's a 2004 expedition 4X4.
I'm waiting for a set of Bilsteins on the way and I'm confused whether to change the coil springs or not. it's a 2004 expedition 4X4.
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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I did the rears about 6 months ago and only replaced the shock. No problems so far. The fronts are sitting on the bench waiting for me to show up.
The rears came out pretty easy. I discovered that I didn't need the compressor to get them out, only to disassemble and reassemble when on the bench.
The rears came out pretty easy. I discovered that I didn't need the compressor to get them out, only to disassemble and reassemble when on the bench.
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I recently replaced front and rear on my 2003. I used the the replacement shock/spring assembly so that I did not have to worry about the compressing the spring or mounts.
The removal of of the shock/spring assembly is pretty easy. There are four bolts on top of each assembly and one (large 30mm) bolt on the bottom of the shock. Rear removal and replace can be done in an hour (not counting the time to compress the spring and replace the shock), the front takes a little longer because there is a little more stuff that has to be moved out of the way.
Once the assemblies are removed you can take them over to the bench to compress the spring and replace the shock, no need to compress on the vehicle.
If you don't have impact tools, you'll need a BIG breaker bar for the 30mm nut (torqued to 250ft lbs) and a ratcheting box wrench will make removing the top bolts much easier. Be careful, the assemblies are heavy (weigh about 40-50 lbs/ea).
It would also be a good opportunity to replace front ball joints, front sway bar end links and front outer tie rods if you have over 100k miles and haven't replaced them yet.
The removal of of the shock/spring assembly is pretty easy. There are four bolts on top of each assembly and one (large 30mm) bolt on the bottom of the shock. Rear removal and replace can be done in an hour (not counting the time to compress the spring and replace the shock), the front takes a little longer because there is a little more stuff that has to be moved out of the way.
Once the assemblies are removed you can take them over to the bench to compress the spring and replace the shock, no need to compress on the vehicle.
If you don't have impact tools, you'll need a BIG breaker bar for the 30mm nut (torqued to 250ft lbs) and a ratcheting box wrench will make removing the top bolts much easier. Be careful, the assemblies are heavy (weigh about 40-50 lbs/ea).
It would also be a good opportunity to replace front ball joints, front sway bar end links and front outer tie rods if you have over 100k miles and haven't replaced them yet.
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update:
I replaced the shocks, and 2 front upper arms, the coils weren't changed. the ride feels firm and behaves nicely on road "slow down" pumps. yes, I feel some small digs on the road, but body roll over is minimized. I like the ride much now.
off road, it is totally different, it used to jump and pump here and there... not any more
I feel minor vibration in steering wheel - that has been there even before shocks replacement - but it feels less now. I think I'll have to check the steering rod for defects !!
highway.. it is still a comfort ride, stable also..
I'm glad I made this investment.
I replaced the shocks, and 2 front upper arms, the coils weren't changed. the ride feels firm and behaves nicely on road "slow down" pumps. yes, I feel some small digs on the road, but body roll over is minimized. I like the ride much now.
off road, it is totally different, it used to jump and pump here and there... not any more
I feel minor vibration in steering wheel - that has been there even before shocks replacement - but it feels less now. I think I'll have to check the steering rod for defects !!
highway.. it is still a comfort ride, stable also..
I'm glad I made this investment.
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Posting Guru
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Finally had this done. Did the Bilsteins, $360 on line and $295 for the install. Nice control of body roll. Feels good on the highway, you still wouldn't want to swerve but it is tighter than 165k mile OEMs.
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