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hi
I bought a 08 F350 and a 09 Trailblazer travel trailer. Everything was fine for the first couple of trips. Now if I apply more than light brake pedal pressure I get at "trailer wiring fault" message on the controller. At the same time I can feel the brakes grabbing and releasing harshly in quick succession. Has this happened to anyone else. Is there a way of determining if the trouble is the trailer or the brakes?
Thanks
Sounds like one of the brakes has a short. What controller?
I am getting this as well. Most likely a wire got scratched and is touching the metal part. My trailer is easy to get under, so I disconnect the brake I suspect the most and try. Once I find the faulty wheel -the drum has to go out.
What happens when you are just sitting parked and activate your trailer brakes using the manual control? Knowing the amp draw to your trailer brakes will tell you whether they are within spec.
I recall seeing a post on one of the trailer sites about this same ishue. The poster found one of the brake wires had chaffed through and would short out just where it came out of the frame. Might be worth rolling under the trailer and have a close look at all four wires.
hey 44, yea did that last night but didn't see anything obvious.
They trailer is under warranty but I live in the sticks so it's hard to get it to the shop.
I recall seeing a post on one of the trailer sites about this same ishue. The poster found one of the brake wires had chaffed through and would short out just where it came out of the frame. Might be worth rolling under the trailer and have a close look at all four wires.
44
The most frequent point of chafing is when they brake lead is run through the axle from the driver's side to the passenger side of the axle, but I gotta tell, I almost never see a problem with brake wiring. It is one of those areas where liability can be a killer, so factories tend to be more cautious.
RV tech, If i remember correctly when i'm stopped and apply the brakes I don't get and error message. Would I measure the amp draw at each wheel?
Kajtec, the controller is factory Ford on an F350
All you need is the total amps. Unfortunately, while Ford's built-in controller may be very good, many of the high-end after-market controllers have diagnostics built-in that take the guess work out. My controller can give me voltage and amp read-outs by just pressing the buttons, for example.
where would be the best place to take the amp reading for all brakes. Is the best a clamp on amp meter.
I wish I had a system that would self diagnosefficeffice" /><o>></o>>
I am not sure how your trailer is wired, but you are trying to pick up the blue lead. On the trailer I worked on this morning, it was easy to get a clamp-on on it where it connected to the 12-2 lead back to the brakes just behind the junction box where the seven pin cord was connected.
Most manufacturers use a 12-2 or 14-2 with one black and one white lead in a red jacket. I am sure you know with a clamp-on, you only go around one leg. With the brake controller fully activated, you should see about 12 amps, although I think anything over 10 is usually good.
If your problem happens only when you are rolling, I would consider a chafed lead, especially since the brakes were good for a while. Since they are cycling, I wonder about the possible of a short that is causing an auto reset fuse to engage.
I don't work on Ford's built-in controller and am not sure as to the possibility it is capable of cycling the brakes.
guys, you have been a great help. I'm beginning to think it's what RV tech say and it may be an auto reset breaker/fuse/overload protection. If it's a dead short the controller maybe protecting it self and breaking and reseting like a turn signal. Just a thought.
Off topic but I had to toss it out there - clamp on amp meters.
I had an alternator problem in my first car. My dad thought it was because I was drawing too much current from the electrical system from my Ham radio. So he had me take it over to the service shop for them to test it while I transmitted so my dad could proove my radio was the culprit. I told them that their clamp on meter wouldn't work.
You should have seen the tech's face when his meter read 1700 amps
Point - clamp on meters read electrical current. When you toss RF in the mix look out!
The radio only drew 20A max, on transmit (and ONLY at peak). Not enough to worry about.
Off topic but I had to toss it out there - clamp on amp meters.
I had an alternator problem in my first car. My dad thought it was because I was drawing too much current from the electrical system from my Ham radio. So he had me take it over to the service shop for them to test it while I transmitted so my dad could proove my radio was the culprit. I told them that their clamp on meter wouldn't work.
You should have seen the tech's face when his meter read 1700 amps
Point - clamp on meters read electrical current. When you toss RF in the mix look out!
The radio only drew 20A max, on transmit (and ONLY at peak). Not enough to worry about.
Interesting! I would be lost without my Fluke clamp-on, as I think most RV techs would be.
My thinking was same as you theres somthing chafted and shorting and resetting the controler.
I feel your pain on living in the sticks...I bought my tow hauler 250 miles from home. Anytime there an ishue its a two day afair minimum...and a 100 gas bill.
It could be in the truck harness too. Got a buddy with a rig you can try?
44
PS: keep buying Fluke meters!
They own the company i work for.
My thinking was same as you theres somthing chafted and shorting and resetting the controler.
I feel your pain on living in the sticks...I bought my tow hauler 250 miles from home. Anytime there an ishue its a two day afair minimum...and a 100 gas bill.
It could be in the truck harness too. Got a buddy with a rig you can try?
44
PS: keep buying Fluke meters!
They own the company i work for.
I tried other meters, but none lasted more than a year in everyday use. Fluke is pricey, but they hold up in the real world and that makes them a good buy in my book! I think the hardest thing about diagnosing this type of problem is most owners just don't have the right equipment and it doesn't make sense to buy it for a one time thing.
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