New Here, Few Questions
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New Here, Few Questions
Hey guys just bought a 2004 F250 super duty with the 6.0l. been good so far just have a few questions. what all do you suggest i do being i just bought it? change every fuild? filters? take some things off and clean them real well? also noticed it feels like it misses sometimes before it gets all the way up to opporating temp. its under light load in OD only, if it down shifts the vibration or miss goes away. I do have a few codes. i have 0261 cylinder 1 injector circuit low, 0266 cylinder 2 contribution/balance fault, 0528 fan speed sensor circuit no signal, 0611 FICM performance. looked at the voltages on the FICM. KOER i had 48v and stable and 14v and stable. does that sound normal? i also preformed the buzz test with the modis and there were no codes from that. Also there is a small vacuum conrolled device on the right side inner fender that has three wires going to it also. it has two vacuum lines to it. the vacuum lines are unplugged and the one is pluged. when i plug it in i notice i lose control of the door in the heater to direct airflow. when connected it just blows on defrost. any input of any of this?
Thanks
Thanks
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
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From: Whittier, CA
I always recommend changing all the fluids on a used vehicle. For your 6.0, it is especially important to have fresh oil. Change the fuel filters ASAP. But if you don't know exactly what and how to do these things, you can cause problems. So see the 6.0 tech folder first.
Also there is a small vacuum conrolled device on the right side inner fender that has three wires going to it also. it has two vacuum lines to it. the vacuum lines are unplugged and the one is pluged. when i plug it in i notice i lose control of the door in the heater to direct airflow. when connected it just blows on defrost. any input of any of this?
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New User
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ahh ic, yes it does have manual locking hubs. I didnt know that it was vacuum controlled stock. I am a mechanic just not a diesel mechanic, so im pretty confident i can change the fluids myself. i will read up on that info though. i will also post a thread in the 6.0 forum. thanks for the info though
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
ahh ic, yes it does have manual locking hubs. I didnt know that it was vacuum controlled stock. I am a mechanic just not a diesel mechanic, so im pretty confident i can change the fluids myself. i will read up on that info though. i will also post a thread in the 6.0 forum. thanks for the info though
If you have a shifter, then you had manual hubs from the factory. If you have a switch on the dash for 4WD, then you originally had autolocking hubs.
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 17,398
Likes: 317
From: Whittier, CA
The automatic hubs and the manual hubs do look similar. They both have a center **** that you turn.
The automatic hubs will be labeled AUTO and LOCK.
The manual hubs will be labeled FREE and LOCK.
If you have the **** on the dash, you definitely had automatic hubs from the factory. But they are not as reliable as we would like, so a lot of them get swapped out with Warn or Milemarker manual hubs.
If your hubs say FORD on the ****, they are the originals and they are automatic.
You can also verify by looking for the vacuum hose to each axle knuckle. The automatic system will have 3 lines going to the wheel area. 1. Brake line 2. ABS wires 3. Vacuum hose.
So it sounds to me like your vacuum lines have been deliberately disconnected. That is undoubtedly because there is a vacuum leak, and the PO wanted to enjoy air from vents other than just defrost. It is possible he installed aftermarket hubs, but that is a different issue. You have a vacuum leak either way.
You will either have to troubleshoot the system and get the auto hubs back into operation, OR you can just leave the vacuum plugged off and install Warn hubs.
The automatic hubs will be labeled AUTO and LOCK.
The manual hubs will be labeled FREE and LOCK.
If you have the **** on the dash, you definitely had automatic hubs from the factory. But they are not as reliable as we would like, so a lot of them get swapped out with Warn or Milemarker manual hubs.
If your hubs say FORD on the ****, they are the originals and they are automatic.
You can also verify by looking for the vacuum hose to each axle knuckle. The automatic system will have 3 lines going to the wheel area. 1. Brake line 2. ABS wires 3. Vacuum hose.
So it sounds to me like your vacuum lines have been deliberately disconnected. That is undoubtedly because there is a vacuum leak, and the PO wanted to enjoy air from vents other than just defrost. It is possible he installed aftermarket hubs, but that is a different issue. You have a vacuum leak either way.
You will either have to troubleshoot the system and get the auto hubs back into operation, OR you can just leave the vacuum plugged off and install Warn hubs.
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ok thanks a lot! this information has helped a lot. i think i am going to try and fix the vacuum controlled engagment just so its easier. i wont be using this truck for much off roading and what not, so i dont see why i would need the manual hubs.
thanks for the info!!
thanks for the info!!
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New User
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From: n. va
AUTO HUBS INFO
BIGERDMAN,
HERE IS THE DISCRIPTION OF THE AUTO HUBS. HOW THEY WORK, AND HOW TO TEST THEM. YOU BEING A TECH SHOULD HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH THEM.
Hublock Operation
The Super Duty and Excursion 4X4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends. A high vacuum level is used to engage the hublocks, and a lower vacuum level is used to disengage the hublocks, after which the vacuum is released and the hub lock holds itself in the proper mode. The vacuum signals are supplied to the hublocks by system components, including the GEM, wring harness, solenoid, vacuum harness and vacuum seals. As the first step in service, eliminate such obvious items as loose wiring connectings, loose vacuum connections, or damaged vacuum lines.
Disengage Time
"Slow" release of the hublocks is not considered abnormal for this system. Anytime vacuum is applied to the hubs, whether for 4X4 or 4X2, the hublocks will initially engage. If 4X4 was requested, the hublocks will remain engaged, but if 4X2 was selected, the internal mechanism will release only after the GEM timers expire and vacuum is vented from the hub. This normally takes 15 seconds, but can take up to two minutes, depending on how the 4X4 mode select switch was operated. After the hub mechanism releases, internal springs must work the hublock gears to the disengaged position. Road bumps, vehicle speed, acceleration cycles, or momentary reversal of direction can assist this process, varying the length of time the hublocks remain engaged in each situation.
Manual Override
The hublocks have manual override selector dials, which, when rotated to the "LOCK" position, will keep the mechanism locked regardless of the instrument panel 4X4 mode select switch position. Verify that both dials are in "AUTO" before evaluating ESOF operation.
Hublock Replacement
Left and right side hublocks are not connected, other than by the common vacuum supply line. If a malfunction in either hublock is diagnosed, it should be installed as an individual unit; there is no need to "balance" an axle with new hublocks on both sides. If both sides appear to be malfunctioning, be sure to verify upstream integrity before installing new hublocks on both sides.
Many system components are involved in the proper operation of the ESOF hubs on 1999 and newer Super Duty and Excursion 4X4 vehicles. Before diagnosing the hublocks themselves as the cause of 4X4 concerns, be sure to verify all related system components.
After removing the hublock retaining ring be sure not to use tools other than the hands or "grip" gloves to remove the hublock, as damage may occur to either the paint or the function of the hublock. Pliers or locking Channel-Locks® should be considered as a last resort, and will usually damage the hublock, making it necessary to install a new hublock
CHECK THE VACUUM AT THE KNUCKLE:<O
</O
1) MAKE SURE HUBS ARE IN THE AUTO POSITION
2) JACK UP UNIT SO THAT THE WHEELS ROTATE FREELY.
3) DISCONNECT VACUUM LINE AT THE KNUCKLE THEN ATTACH A VACUUM GAUGE ON THE LINE
4) CHECK FOR VACUUM WITH ENGINE AT IDLE SWITCH MOVED FROM 2WD TO 4WD. <ST1NORMAL</ST1 OPERATION APPLIES ENGAGEMENT VACUUM FOR 45 SECONDS AND THEN DROPS TO 0.
5) IF THE VACUUM IS GREATER THAN 10 IN-HG THAN THE ENGAGEMENT IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY.
6) TURN THE SWITCH FROM 4WD TO 2WD. <ST1NORMAL</ST1 OPERATION APPLIES DISENGAGEMENT VACUUM FOR 15 SECONDS THEN DROPS TO 0. <O</O
7) IF THE VACUUM IS BETWEEN 5.8 & 7.3 IN-HG THEN THE DISENGAGEMENT VACUUM IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY.
NOTE IF EITHER TEST FAILS THAN THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE VACUUM SYSTEM, LEAK, VACUUM PUMP, SIGNAL TO VACUUM PUMP ECT.<O</O
HOPE THIS HELPS LET US KNOW WHAT YOU FIND OUT
HERE IS THE DISCRIPTION OF THE AUTO HUBS. HOW THEY WORK, AND HOW TO TEST THEM. YOU BEING A TECH SHOULD HAVE NO PROBLEM WITH THEM.
Hublock Operation
The Super Duty and Excursion 4X4 ESOF system uses timed vacuum sequences to lock and unlock the wheel ends. A high vacuum level is used to engage the hublocks, and a lower vacuum level is used to disengage the hublocks, after which the vacuum is released and the hub lock holds itself in the proper mode. The vacuum signals are supplied to the hublocks by system components, including the GEM, wring harness, solenoid, vacuum harness and vacuum seals. As the first step in service, eliminate such obvious items as loose wiring connectings, loose vacuum connections, or damaged vacuum lines.
Disengage Time
"Slow" release of the hublocks is not considered abnormal for this system. Anytime vacuum is applied to the hubs, whether for 4X4 or 4X2, the hublocks will initially engage. If 4X4 was requested, the hublocks will remain engaged, but if 4X2 was selected, the internal mechanism will release only after the GEM timers expire and vacuum is vented from the hub. This normally takes 15 seconds, but can take up to two minutes, depending on how the 4X4 mode select switch was operated. After the hub mechanism releases, internal springs must work the hublock gears to the disengaged position. Road bumps, vehicle speed, acceleration cycles, or momentary reversal of direction can assist this process, varying the length of time the hublocks remain engaged in each situation.
Manual Override
The hublocks have manual override selector dials, which, when rotated to the "LOCK" position, will keep the mechanism locked regardless of the instrument panel 4X4 mode select switch position. Verify that both dials are in "AUTO" before evaluating ESOF operation.
Hublock Replacement
Left and right side hublocks are not connected, other than by the common vacuum supply line. If a malfunction in either hublock is diagnosed, it should be installed as an individual unit; there is no need to "balance" an axle with new hublocks on both sides. If both sides appear to be malfunctioning, be sure to verify upstream integrity before installing new hublocks on both sides.
Many system components are involved in the proper operation of the ESOF hubs on 1999 and newer Super Duty and Excursion 4X4 vehicles. Before diagnosing the hublocks themselves as the cause of 4X4 concerns, be sure to verify all related system components.
After removing the hublock retaining ring be sure not to use tools other than the hands or "grip" gloves to remove the hublock, as damage may occur to either the paint or the function of the hublock. Pliers or locking Channel-Locks® should be considered as a last resort, and will usually damage the hublock, making it necessary to install a new hublock
CHECK THE VACUUM AT THE KNUCKLE:<O
</O1) MAKE SURE HUBS ARE IN THE AUTO POSITION
2) JACK UP UNIT SO THAT THE WHEELS ROTATE FREELY.
3) DISCONNECT VACUUM LINE AT THE KNUCKLE THEN ATTACH A VACUUM GAUGE ON THE LINE
4) CHECK FOR VACUUM WITH ENGINE AT IDLE SWITCH MOVED FROM 2WD TO 4WD. <ST1
NORMAL</ST1 OPERATION APPLIES ENGAGEMENT VACUUM FOR 45 SECONDS AND THEN DROPS TO 0.5) IF THE VACUUM IS GREATER THAN 10 IN-HG THAN THE ENGAGEMENT IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY.
6) TURN THE SWITCH FROM 4WD TO 2WD. <ST1
NORMAL</ST1 OPERATION APPLIES DISENGAGEMENT VACUUM FOR 15 SECONDS THEN DROPS TO 0. <O</O7) IF THE VACUUM IS BETWEEN 5.8 & 7.3 IN-HG THEN THE DISENGAGEMENT VACUUM IS FUNCTIONING PROPERLY.
NOTE IF EITHER TEST FAILS THAN THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE VACUUM SYSTEM, LEAK, VACUUM PUMP, SIGNAL TO VACUUM PUMP ECT.<O
</OHOPE THIS HELPS LET US KNOW WHAT YOU FIND OUT
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Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Aug 2010
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ok thanks a lot for the information, it helped a lot! i will test the system tomorrow hopefuly. my hubs themselves are locked up though. they are stuck in one position. I assume its the auto position because its not in 4 wheel drive. there are small dots on the hubs and thats the position both of them are in. Thanks for the info
New User
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: n. va
ok thanks a lot for the information, it helped a lot! i will test the system tomorrow hopefuly. my hubs themselves are locked up though. they are stuck in one position. I assume its the auto position because its not in 4 wheel drive. there are small dots on the hubs and thats the position both of them are in. Thanks for the info
No problem hope it steers you in the right direction. If you have any other questions feel free to ask. I'll help if I can. No need for this
... lol