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Ok, so here's the deal. When I bought my truck a few months ago, the PO told me he sometimes needed to pour a little gas down the carb to start the truck. For a while, I could crank it maybe 15 seconds at a time and it would start on the 2nd or 3rd go. Lately here, I'm back to pouring a little gas down the carb.So, what should I be checking here? Right before I bought it the fuel pump was replaced, and the carb was rebuilt, among other things. I saw the receipt from the shop detailing the work, so I'm pretty sure the work was done, and correctly. I'm thinking it might have something to do with the choke, but not having had a carbed vehicle before, I don't know how to check it, or even when it's supposed to be open, or closed or what. Is there anything else obvious I should be checking? Restarts are no problem, and after I dump a little gas in, it idles and runs fine. I'm at a loss, but I'd really like to be able to just walk out and start it up. I'm off tomorrow, so I can troubleshoot. Just planning a trip to the junkyard to look for a tach.
I know part of the answer to your question, when you first start your truck cold the choke should be close as the truck warms up it will start to open. Also when you start your truck have you tried to pump the gas a couple times. I gotta do that on my truck before it will start. Also do you have a see thru fuel filter if so make sure the gas coming in to it is clean.
Look under the carb in the morning for puddling or drooling of fuel.
If the float bowl gasket is leaking on a Holley carb the fuel will drain out overnight and cause a delayed start, or prolonged cranking condition after it's been sitting.
I would be checking fuel pressure & flow rate at the carb - remove the fuel line from the carb and
test the pressure while cranking with the starter. If that's OK, verify the output rate - have it squirt
into a bottle and se if it "should be enough."
Ok, so I haven't driven it since yesterday. Went out just now and looked at the carb. No pooling gas. The choke was wide open. I stepped on the gas, and the choke remained open. Pumped the gas a couple of times and checked the carb and I could smell gas, so it appears to squirt gas in when I pump the gas. I'm all alone, so I can't watch. I assume the choke should close at some point? I tried starting, and it fired up after maybe 5 seconds. I assume it started so easily since I drove it last night?
The carb, I assume, is the stock one for my year/engine combo. I don't have a clear filter at the carb, but it looks like it was replaced when the carb was rebuilt.
I don't have a pressure guage, but I will route the line into a bottle in a little bit to see how much it's pumping.
The choke plate should close when you first depress the pedal.
If you remove the filter housing can you see that the choke linkage is hooked up correctly?
Operate the linkage manually from under the hood so you can see what's going on.
(maybe post a photo?)
the choke should close and stay closed when you push the gas down. WHen it starts it should open about 3/16" then slowly open as the engine runs. It should be fully open after 1-2 minutes. It will not open while running unless you move the throttle a little
Ok, here are some pictures. I tried to move the choke both with the plate and the linkage. i could move it less than 1/4". The 2nd picture shows a metal tube that was just dangling off the carb. You can see it in place in the first pic.
Open the throttle and then while holding it open try and move the choke closed.
The insulated steel line links (is supposed to link) the choke's heat stove to the choke coil located in the round housing at the back of the carb.
Hot air passes through there to warm the spiral spring in the brown/black plastic housing and open the choke.
The linkage (bent metal arm in between the carb and choke housing) appears to be connected properly.
Ok, with the throttle open, I can move the choke plate. If I close it all the way, it stays shut, and a little metal tab gets held in place by the throttle linkage. It pops back open if I move the throttle linkage.
If the engines cold it should stay shut. Loosen the 3 screws hollding the black plastic housing and try rottating it to put spring pressure on the choke flap. It may not be engaged properly, if so you'll have to comepletely remove the screws and pull the choke 'stat off to line it up properly.
Just be careful about adjusting the choke. Getting it set where it *should* be will likely lead to issues after the engine starts warming up, since the heat tube is broke.
You may have to play with the setting to find a happy medium between easier cold starts and running decent when warmed up. But you certainly should repair that choke stove tube, so it will work as designed.
If the engines cold it should stay shut. Loosen the 3 screws hollding the black plastic housing and try rottating it to put spring pressure on the choke flap. It may not be engaged properly, if so you'll have to comepletely remove the screws and pull the choke 'stat off to line it up properly.
Brilliant man! I wish I could buy you a beer!
I loosened the screws and rotated until the spring just closed the choke plate. Fired right up, and after a minute, the plate was open. I'm going to let it cool down and try one more time. The real test will come day after tomorrow after I let it sit a couple of days. I'll be freaking thrilled if this fixes it.