Not sure if it is the HPOP or the IPR. I do know the pressure you posted should not keep the engine running.

Do some data logging with the AE to see what is going on with the pressure.

I would also give James or Jody a call at DP-TUNER and ask about the PMT-1. I'm sure they would help you with that part.

 

If the new ECU didn't fix the problem, I would put the original back in case it introduced any new problems. Keep your variables to a minimum.

If you want more power after it's all fixed, do it the right way with a proper tuner.

 

Today I gave it another try using AE to get the ICP pressure at idle and it was around 475 this time. The ICP Duty Cycle was at 10.94.

 

Much better. If it were me, I'd pull the driver valve cover and start the truck and watch each injector for oil discharge to see if I could pinpoint any issues. Then I would swap the #8 injector with the #4 injector (get new o-rings for #4) and see if AE shows the high readings on #4 or if the readings stay high on #8. That should rule out or confirm any issue with the rebuilt injector.

 

My ICP pressure is between 475-500 at idle.2800-2900 WOT My #8 failed intermittently. Gave high reading on the rotational 2.5-4.0 I was picking on #8 because of my rotational velocity and a #8 AD said Failure. Put in a reman injector and nothing changed. Turned out to be a #2 oring. No more CC failure with AD and no more knock. How bad is the miss? Would pulling an injector wire help find the offending injector? If it is a injector.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...oring-pic.html

 

Great point Dan. Due to the firing order, the odds of any HPO issue showing up as a high reading on #8 is good. I don't see any harm in pulling all the injectors on that side for some new o-rings as long as you're in there.

 

It's hard to describe the degree or severity of a miss, but it's definitely there. The hotter the engine gets, the worse it misses. It can be pretty bad at times.

I'm on the second reman injector right now and it's not failing CCT, but the previous reman I had in before this one did fail CCT and had a higher rotational velocity.

Did you experience any missing when you had elevated rotational velocity on #8?

When it comes to pulling injector wires, my guess is that a breakout box would be the perfect tool to have in this situation.

 

Break out box sure would help yea . info. http://www.thompsondrywasher.com/ibb.pdf

It describes the wiring of the 42pin connector. The pins are held in easily and come out easily. Once you start the truck you can pull each injector wire out from there. But CAUTION. High voltage. Good insulated pair of pliers will work. I did mine with my fingers but was super careful.

First my rotational velocities were high from my CPS. Black international cps brought them down considerably on #3 and #8. But still would intermittently fail on #8 cc. Plus i had a knock. no miss at all. Truck ran fine and always ran fine. I put in a reman #8 to try to get rid of the knock. And the rest i posted above. My #2 oring injector appeared to be leaking upwards(away from the piston). I suspected it was pumping in air on compression stroke leaking through the copper washer and it made its way to #8. Just a guess here though. But changing the oring solved my knock. I have put on a 1000 miles since then and no knocking still. My truck does shake little at 1200 rpm. Enough to bounce the laptop monitor a little. But so does my dads and his has never been touched. I never feel that unless i manual rev the motor up in neutral. Otherwise i never feel it.

that 1200 rpm slight shake i thought would be considered a mis. But after seeing video's of some others. I see that shake. Plus my dads truck has it. So i have just been driving it.

Have you done the 50c mod with the UCVH?

 

I have done the 50 cent mod. My biggest complaint with the truck is the engine miss. The knocking noise is fairly minor with this injector, but still there. The previous reman I had in there knocked like there was no tomorrow and it had a miss too. The engine miss with this injector and the previous one as far as I can tell is the same.

 

Some other things you can do to rule out stuff.

Pull out your chip and run stock program
Check Fuel pressure
Ohm check you injectors at the UVCH.
ICP pressure is at 475-500 idle. What is it at WOT. 2800 Psi + ?

 

How you making out with this?

 

Update....

So today I was playing around with an injector breakout box one of the FTE members was kind enough to lend to me and I was trying to get to the bottom of this problem. I didn't get any definitive results using the injector breakout box. I thought I was feeling a slightly less pronounced change when I switched off injector #3, but that is highly debatable. It's so subtle I can't tell if there's anything to it really. I did have a strange experience with my truck today though. I had the tuck die on me momentarily while driving. Just before that happened, I had an issue with what felt like my transmission was slipping. While taking off from stop lights for the next mile was the transmission slipping as I took off. As I first started the truck prior to these symptoms I heard what sounded like a strange electronic relay or buzzing coming from the ECU or possibly around the driver's side wheel well.

At home I used AE to pull codes:
P1316 Injector Drive Module Codes Detected
P0720 Output Speed Sensor Circuit

And on the Test On Board System I ran KOEO and came up with Cylinders 1 through 8 as 'High to Low Side Open'.

I think my issues are with either the PCM or IDM. I switched my PMT1 back to my XLE4 and still came up with the Cylinder 1 though 8 High to Low Side Open and an additional engine code of: P0236 'Turbocharger Boost Sensor A Circuit Range/Performance'. Upon turning the key to the on position the first few times right after installing my XLE4 PCM, I heard a strange relay buzzing sound coming from the dash area this time. Once I started the engine up, the sound never came back. I was not able to successfully run the KOEO test every time once I had installed my XLE4. Most times I received an error and the test could not be run.

I hope today's events will lead to the solution to my problems. Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks,
Drake

 

Would a IDM buzz like described? I read, If i remember right, Seeing it is mounted in area that could see weather. Behind the front driver side wheel well. They could leak past through the seals of the IDM and corrode the pc board inside the IDM. Just a thought.

 

I'm thinking my problem lies with either the PCM or the IDM. I'm still getting a relay buzzing noise every time I turn the ignition over to the "on" position. The sound is coming from behind the radio this time. This has been the case ever since I re-installed my XLE4 PCM.

Today my truck also didn't start and I heard the relay buzz when I was cranking the motor and suddenly everything quit and the dash gauges went to sleep. The next time I cranked it, everything was dead. The third time I was able to start the truck.

Like a genius, I put the PCM in with the keys in the ignition. My understanding is that will kill a PCM.

Has anyone had these issues and know if it was their PCM or IDM. I just don't know the symptoms for the failure of either of these.

Drake

 

How about one dead battery.Or a battery with a dead cell or something..And while you are cranking it dips into the 7/8 volt range. While cranking mine will dip into the upper 9v range. And my batteries are only 3 months old. I thought i read if folks here the buzzing behind the radio it usually tends to be weak batteries..