Valve seal problems?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 392
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From: Listowel, Ont.
Valve seal problems?
I LOVE my V10.
My son bought a 2000 F350 V10 about 6 months ago, and he has put his 4th engine in since he has owned it. He was talking to some mechanics and they said that the problem with the V10 is the valve seals. Around 150k or 90,000 mi the seals harden and start to let oil in.
Anyone heard of this?
With 130k on mine, do I have something to be worried about?
My son bought a 2000 F350 V10 about 6 months ago, and he has put his 4th engine in since he has owned it. He was talking to some mechanics and they said that the problem with the V10 is the valve seals. Around 150k or 90,000 mi the seals harden and start to let oil in.
Anyone heard of this?
With 130k on mine, do I have something to be worried about?
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
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From: Listowel, Ont.
Krewat, yep 4, all the same problem. They all burn oil. Like I said earlier, the ford mechanic says that the V10s are known for bad valve seals.
This last one he was able to get full warranty including labour, since it was in for only 2 weeks.
This last one he was able to get full warranty including labour, since it was in for only 2 weeks.
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Joined: Nov 2004
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So the valve seals is how the motor is burning oil? I've been searching for weeks for an answer since I'm one of several people with the V10 (That I've met randomly in person) who burn 1 quart every 500-1000 miles.
Is there an actual FIX ACTION?
Why do sooooo many V10 owners finding this to be "its fine ford says so, just add oil" and
when this is **** quality R&D & QC by Ford? My buddy's 6.0 1500hd w/ 230k+ miles barely started to burn 1 quart when he does his oil change. He changes the oil when the dash light says to change the oil, and it's 10,000+ miles when it does! He regularly drags around a 21ft trailer.
I just don't understand........ This is my 3rd Ford so I'm not Ford bashing. But this really is BS on Ford's part and don't understand we have to just bending and taking (with lube actually, 1 quart every 1000 miles as a matter of fact). This is simply UNACCEPTABLE.
Is there an actual FIX ACTION?
Why do sooooo many V10 owners finding this to be "its fine ford says so, just add oil" and
when this is **** quality R&D & QC by Ford? My buddy's 6.0 1500hd w/ 230k+ miles barely started to burn 1 quart when he does his oil change. He changes the oil when the dash light says to change the oil, and it's 10,000+ miles when it does! He regularly drags around a 21ft trailer.I just don't understand........ This is my 3rd Ford so I'm not Ford bashing. But this really is BS on Ford's part and don't understand we have to just bending and taking (with lube actually, 1 quart every 1000 miles as a matter of fact). This is simply UNACCEPTABLE.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Long Island USA
KooLaid, one thing you have to understand about this "issue". My '01 V10 doesn't use a drop of oil between oil changes. And I beat on it.
I use straight dino Castrol GTX 5w30 and never EVER use oil.
Many do not report any oil usage with the Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend, but many who use Mobil 1, Amsoil, or a bunch of other full synthetics DO report oil usage. Synthetics are known to be "volatile" and there is an actual spec for how much of the oil will evaporate and be burned through the PCV system. I would suggest you check the PCV system for a lot of oil in the plumbing (or even a leak to atmosphere), and definitely check what oil you are using.
You mean burn oil like blow blue smoke out the tail pipe? I find it very hard to believe that 4 engines in a row burned oil, but then you're talking about junkyard engines.
What made him change the engine in the first place? How did the first one fail?
I use straight dino Castrol GTX 5w30 and never EVER use oil.
Many do not report any oil usage with the Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend, but many who use Mobil 1, Amsoil, or a bunch of other full synthetics DO report oil usage. Synthetics are known to be "volatile" and there is an actual spec for how much of the oil will evaporate and be burned through the PCV system. I would suggest you check the PCV system for a lot of oil in the plumbing (or even a leak to atmosphere), and definitely check what oil you are using.
Originally Posted by ontariofarmer
Krewat, yep 4, all the same problem. They all burn oil. Like I said earlier, the ford mechanic says that the V10s are known for bad valve seals.
This last one he was able to get full warranty including labour, since it was in for only 2 weeks.
This last one he was able to get full warranty including labour, since it was in for only 2 weeks.
What made him change the engine in the first place? How did the first one fail?
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Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 53
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KooLaid, one thing you have to understand about this "issue". My '01 V10 doesn't use a drop of oil between oil changes. And I beat on it.
I use straight dino Castrol GTX 5w30 and never EVER use oil.
Many do not report any oil usage with the Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend, but many who use Mobil 1, Amsoil, or a bunch of other full synthetics DO report oil usage. Synthetics are known to be "volatile" and there is an actual spec for how much of the oil will evaporate and be burned through the PCV system. I would suggest you check the PCV system for a lot of oil in the plumbing (or even a leak to atmosphere), and definitely check what oil you are using.
I use straight dino Castrol GTX 5w30 and never EVER use oil.
Many do not report any oil usage with the Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend, but many who use Mobil 1, Amsoil, or a bunch of other full synthetics DO report oil usage. Synthetics are known to be "volatile" and there is an actual spec for how much of the oil will evaporate and be burned through the PCV system. I would suggest you check the PCV system for a lot of oil in the plumbing (or even a leak to atmosphere), and definitely check what oil you are using.
I'm running 5w30 dino of varying brands. Same results.
There is a valve cover seep but not a drop hits the ground. It also has a brand new ford pcv valve and hose since the last one developed a crack in the hose. At the last smog check on the dyno in Feb 2010, the truck tested exceptionally clean 83,340 miles.
15 mph 1479 rpm
CO2- 11.7; O2- 4.4
HC
Max 135 Ave 13 Measured 7
CO%
Max 0.76 Ave 0.04 Measured 0.02
NO
Max 1768 Ave 136 Measured 145
25 mph 1481 rpm
CO2- 11.8; O2- 4.2
HC
Max 105 Ave 10 Measured 1
CO%
Max 1.46 Ave 0.04 Measured 0.01
NO
Max 1568 Ave 123 Measured 19
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 392
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From: Listowel, Ont.
My V10 doesn't burn any oil either. I'm REAL happy with how it's working.
He bought the truck about 9 months ago, and all seemed fine, then a little blue smoke and within 3-4 weeks, it was so bad he had to stop using it.
He uses reg 10w30 oil in it.
He was told that all of them had valve seal problems, and it wasn't worth fixing.
He bought the truck about 9 months ago, and all seemed fine, then a little blue smoke and within 3-4 weeks, it was so bad he had to stop using it.
He uses reg 10w30 oil in it.
He was told that all of them had valve seal problems, and it wasn't worth fixing.
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Junior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 62
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From: Albany/Columbus
KooLaid, one thing you have to understand about this "issue". My '01 V10 doesn't use a drop of oil between oil changes. And I beat on it.
I use straight dino Castrol GTX 5w30 and never EVER use oil.
Many do not report any oil usage with the Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend, but many who use Mobil 1, Amsoil, or a bunch of other full synthetics DO report oil usage. Synthetics are known to be "volatile" and there is an actual spec for how much of the oil will evaporate and be burned through the PCV system. I would suggest you check the PCV system for a lot of oil in the plumbing (or even a leak to atmosphere), and definitely check what oil you are using.
You mean burn oil like blow blue smoke out the tail pipe? I find it very hard to believe that 4 engines in a row burned oil, but then you're talking about junkyard engines.
What made him change the engine in the first place? How did the first one fail?
I use straight dino Castrol GTX 5w30 and never EVER use oil.
Many do not report any oil usage with the Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend, but many who use Mobil 1, Amsoil, or a bunch of other full synthetics DO report oil usage. Synthetics are known to be "volatile" and there is an actual spec for how much of the oil will evaporate and be burned through the PCV system. I would suggest you check the PCV system for a lot of oil in the plumbing (or even a leak to atmosphere), and definitely check what oil you are using.
You mean burn oil like blow blue smoke out the tail pipe? I find it very hard to believe that 4 engines in a row burned oil, but then you're talking about junkyard engines.
What made him change the engine in the first place? How did the first one fail?
DO u think i should move to 5w30? Just hiitting 70,000miles on my baby and wanna keep her right. What do u reccomend far as oil and would a stabilizer like lucaas help. Im changing the oil tomorrow? ANy advice?
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Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 62
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From: Albany/Columbus
What is your reasoning behind the 5w30? vs. 5w20 in your truck?
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 42,561
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From: Long Island USA
That the 5W20 made more timing chain noise than the 5W30 did, and that in 2000, the engine was exactly the same and called for 5W30. This is with Castrol GTX I've switch back and forth 2 or 3 times to verify, and whatever was the stock fill from brand-new. The stock fill, and 5W20 Castrol GTX made more chain noise than 5W30.
Come to think of it, the "warm startup rattle" I periodically hear is now sounding more and more like timing chain noise the more I think about it...
Come to think of it, the "warm startup rattle" I periodically hear is now sounding more and more like timing chain noise the more I think about it...
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 2,564
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From: Wayyy NoCal, USA
Huh. News to me. My truck must not have gotten the memo. Nor any of the other V10's I'm personally aware of. Aso strange that it would only be the V10's when all of the modular motors use (I believe) the same seals and design.
Why not just replace the valve seals if that's all that's wrong with it?
