Just got a 92 F250 with a 460 and went to upgrade the ignition stuff and set the base timing. Well, the distributor is stu-uck. wouldn't move with a large wrench or even applying pressure on the wrench with a crow bar and a hammer. Anyone run into this before, and any solutions? Timing is set right now at about 4 deg. BTDC. I know I am leaving power and milage on the table so I want to fix this. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Was the motor warm? If not you might try warming it up first......that might help. I've had them kinda stuck in place before, but they always break loose with a wrench. You sure you have the hold down loosened up enough?

 

Lots and lots of gunk. I sprayed a crapload of WD-40 to loosen up mine.
Just spray leave it for awhile and start using your muscles and if it budges a little apply more wd-40 and keep moving it.

Now that i've contributed to the question... i'll try not to be too
annoying but I need your help guys. I'm in a pic competition (click on link under my signature picture.) Your votes for my truck would be greatly
appreciated.

 

Hold down was off and engine warm. I'll try the WD 40 thing.

 

Ya and then tell us how it went.
Oh and when you spray it try to clean off
all the gunk around it first. I used a flat
screw driver and some good pressurized air.
It's a '92... whats the mileage?

 

131K, I just replaced the taiming gear set and the water pump in it too.

 

Lucky you. Mine is needing a new oil pump.
My odometer reads about 210k
302 still performs like a champ.
My distributor wasnt that stuck but I did
have a bit of trouble.

 

just be careful, i have actually snapped the dizzy in half before torqueing on it too much, lucky for me it was on a junk block anyways

 

Spray some penetrating oil (like PB blaster or something, I had liquid wrench at the time so I used that) at the base of the distributor where it goes into the block. Mine was seized in there on my 302. I removed the plastic base (that is attached by two screws), put a "C" Clamp on the distributor and tightened it. (like what you use to shove a brake caliper piston back into the caliper). It freed up and came out pretty easily this way.

 

I don't quite follow you. how did you attach the c clamp?

 

Got it. Prayer, PB blaster, wrench, crow bar, and grunt. Budged enough to get me to about 13 deg. BTDC. Perfect in my book as I wanted it advanced a little. Runs better now. Thanks guys.

 

Cool
You see that stuff makes miracles.
I noticed improvements with just a little advancing.
Mines set at 11.5
13 Should feel much better

 

get some CRC Freeze off. This will cool the dizzy shaft and shrink it so you can turn it . I destroyed the first dizzy i had to take out but the freeze off finally was the only product that worked the 2nd time around without destroying the dizzy. Freeze off is a penetrating lubricant also. I tried PB ,Kroil,WD40 with no success and this was after soaking it everyday for 2 weeks!!

BigLar

 

I just went through this with my '92 460.138K. Stuck aint the word. I am lucky I didn't break it off. I searched the web and someone mentioned soaking with PB (Which I had been doing for several days with no luck) and using an air hammer with the rounded end and a length of board between the hammer and the dizzy at it's base to vibrate the penetrant into the gap. It actually worked. And it worked fast. My timing is now @ 12* and the truck starts and runs better. It was at 9*.

 

WD40 sucks, just as much as CA's other chief export, our current House speaker. My nerdy friends like to be cool and say "Duct Tape holds the universe together". Bullsh**. PB-B'Laster takes it apart faster than General Motors can put together a bailout . I digress.

Anyway, I find that a mixture of Blaster and ATF (30:70 or so) is my best friend in battling galvanic corrosion- it even works on boat motors. Douse the dist in that mixture every day before driving to work/school/whatever, and after a week or so even the exhuast mani will come off.