I have posted at least once before on this issue. I have a F250 Fx4 with the intergrated brake controller. I have had it with this thing. I have gone to multiple dealerships. Have spent now in excess of 1K in shop time and parts to get it fixed. I understand it is a come and go problem but it is progressively getting worse. I kept getting "Trailer Disconnected" warning in my dash and on the TBC. Each dealership always wants to blame the trailer. I have had the brakes and wiring checked on it multiple times also. It test perfect. So on the truck I built a simulater to plug in. All plugs and plugins have been repeatedly checked and even replaced. My simulator keeps showing trailer disconnected as I drive around empty. Yesterday I spent another $463.00 to replace the brake controller. I didn't even get home before it threw another code. I do not want to put in a aftermarket controller but my nerves can't take it any more. By the way I purchased the truck new as well as the trailer. Anyone have any words of wisdom??

 

have you checked the inside of the plugin at the rear of the pickup? There was a problem with water getting into the inside of the connection housing and corroding the internal connections as well as shoring the brake pin to the ground pin...

when you pop the connector (not connection) open I'll bet a bit of water spills out.

 

As far as I know Ford is NOT famous brake controllers manufacturer.
Prodigy is. I bought mine for $120 and it works perfect.

 

TexasRebel has it right. You need to change the 7 wire trailer connector at the rear of the truck.
JL

 

I'm not sure it is as simple as the seven pin connector given the truck has been to multiple dealerships, but it could be. I would certainly agree the problem is aft oft the controller and I would tend to leave that end alone.

Steve

 

If your experiences with dealerships techs was anything remotely like mine (and I'm speaking about 3-4 different dealers), then you wouldn't trust them to get an oilchange right, much less a repair that takes brainpower and troubleshooting skills.
JL

 

While I may be in the minority, my experience has been consistently good, thus my comment. In this case, however, after the first dealership attempt, it may have had value to run it by an RV technician.

Steve

 

Well gentlemen,thanks for all the come back. Yes I have been to 4 different dealerships. Solutions from all are basic and the same. "it's your RV" "it's your RV plugin" Its your Rv recpticle in the bed of your truck or under your bumper"
All of which I have either checked or changed myself. To date I have changed the magnets in a 3 year old RV which I bought new. Had wires all checked for shorts or ground outs. Added an additional ground wire from fram of trailer to frame of the truck. The dealership most recently sold me a new controller for 300 bucks. And I towed my RV today for a short week vacation. It is still not fixed. What makes me madder than I care to express is how every dealer makes you feel like your stupid!!! There is no water in my plugin under my bumper. YES I checked it and even changed it and the one in the bed of my truck. All wire splices are soldered and heat shrinked. There is no corrosion there. Oh! Anyone want a good deal on a Factory Controler? I have good one for sale.

Thanks Mark

 

Hm, if a new controller fix my problem and fits in a 2006 F-350, I'm interested.
But I don't know if the controller make my problems.
When I press the brake pedal smoothly everything is all right. If I press it stronger I the display show me TBC fault and there is a irritating beep every time.
In Germany there are no Ford dealers which know somethimg about american trucks, so I remove the fuse of the TBC but this is not the final solution.
Do someone know this problem and what is the reason?
Could it be the contoller???
Sorry for my awful english, but I'm out of school for a few years!
Thank you very much

 

What do you want for it?

 

Miggun,

does it only trip if you slam the pedal down, or will it also trip if you slowly mash the pedal down? You might have a bad pressure sensor on the master cylinder.

stan, have you tried just disconnecting the in-bed connection and making sure the factory connection works alone?

 

The mistake come all the time i press the brake a little bit harder. There is no different if I press the pedal slow or fast!
Can I change the sensor or must it be the complete master brake cylinder. so I had to order the part in the U.S.

 

Mark,

Problems like this appear to be fairly common especially for 2005s and 2008s. When driving they appear to be more common when speed is less than 15 MPH.

-Some trailers use small gauge wire (16-18 gauge) with a very indirect path to the brakes and the voltage drop to and from the trailer is enough that the IBC will give a trailer disconnect. This is especially a problem if you have one of the low voltage brake controllers. This has been solved by rewiring the trailer with 10 gauge wire and/or making a more direct route to the brakes.

-The Ford brake controller does seem to have compatibility issues with trailers with electric over hydraulic and not straight electric.

I am not sure how you built you simulator but it must draw a load similar to the trailer brakes for it to work correctly. There is the Tekonsha 7-Way Trailer Emulator Model Number 6562 that does seem to work for this kind of trouble shooting.

I would suggest you check the voltages coming out of the controller, then at the connector, and before and after the trailer brakes at each wheel. When you test it use maximum gain on the controller. With the vehicle stationary there should be greater than 1-2 volts supplied to trailer on vehicles built before March 23rd, 2005 and greater than 10-12 volts supplied to trailer on vehicles built March 23rd, 2005 and later.

 

Thanks, this the most informed response yet. I will check the amps at all the locations and check the exact Gage of the trailer wiring. This is a Carriage RV. It is a 37ft. So this a big boy and needs dependable braking.

 

You really don't need to go under the trailer to do any of this. All you need is a clamp-on meter to measure total amp draw. It takes about a minute. Unless someone has rewired the brakes, there is no way you are going to find 16-18 ga wire and I would be curious to know what manufacturer is actually using this gauge wire so I can document it and report it as it is a clear code violation.

Steve