Know when to fold 'em..
So I finally decided it was time to try something different, and bought a different 2100 off eBay for $40. Needed a couple of minor pieces that I already had, but was clean, and as I found out when I got it apart, well cared-for -- Vintage Speed power valve and gasket, for instance. Re-jetted it for altitude, threw in a new 6.5 PV for altitude, float setting was OK and a good needle, a quick spray with cleaner and threw it on. Twiddled with the idle screws, and hit the road...
OH MY GOSH! As soon as I tipped the throttle, I could see a HUGE difference!! For one thing, I can tell my vac advance is working where it never did before, and I swear it has at least 20 HP more in cruise range -- it flat out jumps at 40 mph! The big hill near me (6% grade) used to take all it had, now I can actually accelerate up it!
Moral of the story -- some carbs are just plain losers. If a good refreshing doesn't work -- GET RID OF IT!! There are plenty of good ones still out there! Best $40 I ever spent on it.
Anywho, I once pulled a carb off a 70's 302, and put it on a 400, and it not only gave it better throttle response, it produced better mpg, too. Go figure, lol. Moral of the story: sometimes the sun shines on a dog's behind every now and then.
My euphoria has been somewhat tempered as the day wore on; I drove it around and found it is flooding on hot re-starts, even some pretty cool re-starts. I think it may just need to be put in a shorter accelerator pump stroke hole.
Another thing for anyone running these (94's or 2100's); I found my old accel pump piston rubber had shrunk totally, so that the round brass it sits against on the accel pump rod was actually larger diameter -- in other words, the rubber was doing absolutely nothing. I had rebuilt it about 2 yrs ago with a Brand Name parts kit...
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There's no "free lunch"!
An engine makes the most power when fed the correct ratio of fuel/air into the cylinder then that mix is fired at the right moment. With a carb this state only occurs at a small rpm band (due to the fixed size of everything controlling this, for all practical purposes) all other rpms are a comprimise. The engineers "tune" this rpm band to be in the most useful or most commonly used range.
Changing to a larger carb reduces the airflow speed (and increases fuel delivery if using OEM jetting) which can/does negatively affect the air/fuel ratio and fuel delivery to the cylinder as well as reduces the vacuum signal to the distributor, changing the timing.
If you happen to be real lucky and you haven't gone way overboard in carb size, this may still produce the ideal conditions at a slightly different (but narrower) point in the rpm band. If that happens to be the band you use most, then you may win, but more likely you are actually losing.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I gotta say,that's the single best thing I've ever done for my truck.If I didn't know it,I'd swear I am now driving a different vehicle.I did not,however,pay the high price from Pony - though I'd now do it in a heartbeat.I got it from Ebay,when a guy decided to go with a bigger engine and carb.I saved quite a bit.
Pony Carbs refurbishes Autolite carbs primarily,2100's/4100's and others,but also some of the older ones.They claim to make internal improvements to the original design,and correct design flaws.I can't argue that,I'm ignorant,I just know that I can't imagine a better dollar spent on a carburetor.No,I don't work for them.
There's no "free lunch"!
An engine makes the most power when fed the correct ratio of fuel/air into the cylinder then that mix is fired at the right moment. With a carb this state only occurs at a small rpm band (due to the fixed size of everything controlling this, for all practical purposes) all other rpms are a comprimise. The engineers "tune" this rpm band to be in the most useful or most commonly used range.
Changing to a larger carb reduces the airflow speed [venturi velocity at the same total mass air flow - true] (and increases fuel delivery if using OEM jetting [Not true - fuel flow is proportional to venturi vacuum, which is proportional to air flow - this is the core principle of carburetors. I am not using OEM jetting -see above] ) which can/does negatively affect the air/fuel ratio and fuel delivery to the cylinder as well as reduces the vacuum signal to the distributor, changing the timing.
If you happen to be real lucky and you haven't gone way overboard in carb size, this may still produce the ideal conditions at a slightly different (but narrower) point in the rpm band. If that happens to be the band you use most, then you may win, but more likely you are actually losing.
In this case the flat V8 has a carb sized totally for economy, not for power. I also have to flow 20% more air to get the same amount of oxygen into my engine as the same engine at sea level, and I have 2.5 psi less atmospheric pressure to push it into the engine. This larger carb compensates for that. If I were to put a 4-bbl on it, I'd likely be wasting my time without a cam change, porting, and increased compression ratio.









