Okay, I may not be an electrical engineer, but our charging system is not rocket science either. Anyways I need some help on my 51 w/ 239.

1) Charging: When I run on-vehicle generator test, as in shorting field and armature, then running directly to the battery, the generator charges like a champ. But as soon as I hook it up to the regulator, it is dead as a nail. Yes, I did polarize the regulator by disconnecting the field and briefly connecting it to the battery terminal. And the regulator is brand spanking new. I checked for any short on all three lines, and I didn't notice anything. I know the wiring under the dash is all screwed up, but the primary to the battery going through the amp meter is solid. Am I missing something?

2) Really stupid question... How do I put enough tension on the belts? Is there a simple way to leverage it to put enough tension on it? There must be a way!

Thanks in advance.

 

2) If you can find a way, let us know! A combination of pry bars, two people, some cussing... Tighten the gen belt first.

 

In order for your generator to send a charge, the wire coming off the "BATT" terminal of the regulator has to go to your power distribution, and there has to be a load. Stock set up has two sugar cube sized circuit breakers mounter on the instrument cluster that distributes power out to the hot (always on) items ( lights, horns, lighter, etc).

From the circuit breaker, the wire flows back through the amp gauge induction loop then on to the starter solenoid (same terminal as the negative battery post - assuming you are running the stock 6V pos ground electrical system).

The wiring on that circuit has to be complete for you to SHOW a charge on the gauge. If the wiring is complete to the circuit breaker only, it will feed the hot items but never make it through the gauge or to the battery.

The test you performed and the results you got usually indicate a bad regulator - new or not some coming off the shelf are bad.

One last suggestion. Make sure the new regulator is compatible with the generator, ie 6 volt - not 12 volt, and make sure both the gemerator and regulator are very well grounded (wire from the generator to the firewall and no paint under the feet of the regulator where it is mounted).

Send me an e-mail if you get stuck.

 

Yes you need to loosen the generator and the fan, but pry the up on the bottom of the generator mount, then tighten the bolts when you have the belt where you want it. Then, pry up on the fan. And yes lots and lots of cussing and smashing fingers, but you gotta love the flatheads!!

 

I checked the wiring feeding the gauge. When I jumped the field and armature, I connected an ammeter directly to the battery. It was charging fine. And to make sure, I ran the wire to the battery wire on the regulator while it was disconnected from the regulator. The ammeter on the gauge pod was showing full charge at around 2000 rpm. So I think I agree with you regarding the regulator. It is a 6V regulator, but it may be bad. Time to cuss out the parts shop guy and buy him a beer again. It ain't the first time.

As for the belt tension, I hoped you gods have some trick up your sleeve. I guess it is time to pull out the baseball bat. Worked wonders on my old 64 Galaxie with 390. (I miss that car...)

 

Yep, everything you have said points to a bad regulator!

Just FYI, it's the generator that gets polarized. You charge the field coils to provide a perminent magnetic filed for charging. Theoretically, once the generator is polarized, you needn't do it again - even when replacing the regulator. But it doesn't hurt anything to redo it.

There is conflicting info and different processes on how to do that - using either field or armature wires. The most common way is to remove the field wire at the regulator and very briefly glance it across the battery terminal of the regulator. There should be a spark and a little "pop." Then reconnect it. Be sure to check that the regulator is WELL grounded.

Good luck.

(PS ever though about a 12 volt conversion with a "one wire" alternator?)

 

Where did you get the regulator, and what is the P/N? It is also important to make sure the regulator is designed for positive ground, as well as 6v. Is it a solid state type?

 

This is a parts guy whom I have been going to for the past 2 decades. He knows what he is doing, and it is stamped with 6V on it. I am not sure how to tell whether it is a solid state type or not. (Does it matter?) Anyways, I will take it back to him for a replacement. I do really think that it is a bunk regulator. I will keep you guys posted.

 

Maybe after a few more days of cussing at the wiring, I may bite the bullet and pull the trigger. But for now, I am one of those folks who lives on by the idea, "why fix it when it works?" (I know it is not working now.)

I did find your handy dandy single wire alternator conversion diagram. I maybe using it soon.

 

Yep, if it's not broke.......!

Send me an e-mail when you get ready to do any electrical stuff and I will be happy to send the whole bunch to you!

 

Well after cussing at it for the past week, figured out 1 of 2 issues. Now I know how to put enough tension on the belt at least.

It is 2 step process. 1) Loosely install the generator and belt as you normally would. Take the generator out, loosen the bracket and raise it by about 1/4" without the generator. 2) Slide the belt around the generator pulley and seat the generator on the bracket.

Now I have nice tension on the belt.

Only if I can figure out the dang charging issue... I am suspecting wiring at this point.

 

all i gotta say is join the club on wiring woes .......... it's the main cause for my 53 to have been sitting now for well over a year apart , and now the 52 customline is sitting at a good friends house with him looking at it to figure the thing out !!!!!!!! all i can say is me and the electrical system no matter how much " homework " i do don't mix well ........................... you just need too live closer julie i'da shipped bessie over to you !!!!!!! now gertrude as she is being a pain in the **** !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I figured it out! It is about dang time. So basically the issue was the tension on the cut out relay inside the voltage regulator. I was reading the shop manual one more time. It was describing voltage and amp relay as well as the cut out relay. So what the heck, why don't I just open up the regulator and mess with the relays? I noticed that the voltage and amp relays were all connected and the cut out relay disconnected. So when just pressed the connection, it was charging. All it was the spring tension on the cut out relay was too tight. On 2 brand new relays! Now with simple bend on the tabs, now I have 2 working relays and a charging truck.

About time. Thanks for everyone's help.

 

I remember back when I was kid about 50 years ago my dad having a problem starting his truck. I watched him stride across the yard to the shop and retrieve a rubber mallet. He give the regulator a couple soft taps on the side, got in and started it up. He said " sometimes these things get stuck". I think back and wonder how did he ever figure that out.

Seems like the same type of scenario?

That's great you got'er going.

 

That would be a case of stuck together contacts on a cut-out, which would run battery power back thru the generator, reducing the amount of battery power available for starting. Hx's case is the contacts not closing to connect the gen's output to the system. Similar but different.

Smacking regulators with anything from a BFH to a shoe was part of daily life up into the '60's. It's one of the reasons I run an alternator!!