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For the past 3 week now when i crank it over it seems like only one battery is turning the starter. I Tested both batteries and they are good. Only a year old too.
I also replaced the positive cable on the driverside going to the pass. side. But this cable is 4 gauge not 2 gauge like what was there. and the ground cable on the driver side is new it is 2 gauge. Done this about 3 month ago.
The passenger side cables look good. There is a 2 gauge going to the starter and it is tight.
Any ideas before I buy a new starter? If it is the starter I would rather try and fix it myself than spend $200-300.
I would say 4 guage is not near big enough! These trucks have really high compression and it takes a lot of power to turn that starter over fast enough to get them running properly.
If it was working though and it's not now then you either have a loose connection someplace or corrosion. I would start with checking all the grounds and then check the positive cables going to the solenoid on the firewall and to the starter.
Even the 2 gauge is borderline. They were engineered for new conditions, not rusted, corroded, and certainly no longer new conditions. Chances are that no matter what you fix/upgrade now, your starter will need attention, when they are low on available current, they heat up that much more, shortening their life even faster.
I just went through this on one of my trucks, the starter ended up being the culprit, but in the process I checked and cleaned all the connections and know they are good for a while again.
The cable going to the starter is huge here is a picture. Also the Positive cable going to the solenoid is a 4 gauge. Its new. Should i replace all my cables with 2/0 and fix the problem? It has been fine until now.
Do I see white corrosion around the big cable??? Post the pic, not the thumbnail of the pic.
There is a little, but its really not to bad. Im just going to order new cables. But I know these chain stores give me funny looks when I say i want 2/0. I may just order it online. But still, Could i fix this starter myself or better off buying new?
It looks to me like you have corrosion inside the cable under the insulation. I had that problem on mine and had to strip it back about 4" on each side to clean with baking soda. Got them nice and shiny and recovered with heat shrink tubing. That got me through a couple more months until I could afford to replace them. When I did finally replace them I went with custom ones I purchased online at Custom Battery Cables F350 cables
I absolutely LOVE these cables, heavy duty and well made. I figure they will outlast the truck!
ok, Well just called local parts store (not chain store) and they have 1/0 cable. 54" and a 12" to replace my 4 gauge for $35 and $15 . And starter, rebuilt. for $209. Does it matter on direct drive or gear reduction? He could not tell by looking at it.
$35 sounds awful cheap for 1/0 in those lengths, better jump on that price while you can!
As for the starter I have read about both on here but can't remember which is preferred, try a quick search on the forum and you will find info or someone with more experience will chime in and help ya out.
ok, Well just called local parts store (not chain store) and they have 1/0 cable. 54" and a 12" to replace my 4 gauge for $35 and $15 . And starter, rebuilt. for $209. Does it matter on direct drive or gear reduction? He could not tell by looking at it.
stock starter is a Mitsubishi gear reduction starter........i think most people say the gear reduction starters are the best
They came stock with both. I personally have had better luck with the gear drive.
The cable ends like you have in the picture don't hardly cut it with the amount of juice these starters require.
If you want to use bolt on cable ends get some from a truck parts house. They are way heavier duty and you can get one so you can run one continous cable for your positive.
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