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Rustoleum Paint Mixture For Frame

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  #16  
Old 07-31-2013, 08:36 PM
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I just sprayed my first ever with chassis saver part a few days ago and the other half today. We'll see hos it holds up over winters and work like our 95 did.

 
  #17  
Old 07-31-2013, 08:49 PM
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That is sprayed? Looks brushed.

diesel&coffee the hardener is designed for acrylic enamels. Rustolium is oil based, so NO, it is Not compatible

Just a FYI. The 79 i restored for my buddy 3 years ago is back for FRAME paint and wheel paint. Frame paint was rustolium gloss black. Bare frame with axles was power washed, wire wheeled down to bare, wiped clean with wax/grease remover then sprayed w 2 gallons of gloss black. The truck has NEVER been driven in the rain or snow, But is stored outside. The frame is starting to blister really bad. Wish i had my sandblaster to do a superior job of cleaning and wish I had used POR for better adhesion

Start
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Finish(tank was removed, cleaned painted and inside frame as well, then reinstalled and repainted)
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  #18  
Old 07-31-2013, 10:05 PM
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Ok what other options do we have.. Meaning a step up in quality from rostoleum/krylon liquid paint.. Other then POR-15.. Like DuPont or other?? Any industrial paints?? There has to be something that is killer and can be tinted flat or other if wish!

And no I am not powder coating.. Not totally stripping truck.

Is krylon industrial any better then rustoleum.. Its a modified acrylic alkyed enamel.

DIESEL BRAD was it just regular rostoleum paint?? Not industrial??

Anyone hard off Vansickles tractor paint??

http://www.vansicklepaint.com/tracto...torenamel.html
 
  #19  
Old 07-31-2013, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel_Brad
That is sprayed? Looks brushed

Yes, I should have been more specific. That pic was just the brushing the frame got, after that the bottom of the box was sprayed and then bolted back on the truck then it was sprayed from the underneath today from back to front of the truck. I have new pics but forgot the camera back in the shop. I will post the pics tomorrow.
 
  #20  
Old 07-31-2013, 10:31 PM
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My 0.02 USD worth . . .

I'll throw this out there for consideration.

I worked at an amusement park with water rides and while I was employed by them, I was sent to DuPont Refinishing School in SoCal.

We used Rustoleum Stops Rust 'rattle can' gloss black paint on the chassis and other misc. parts on a number of the rides. Rugged stuff if applied correctly. Destined for failure if 'home brew' concoctions and directions are used.

The same can be said for the DuPont Centari 5000 that we used on the shiny parts of the rides that the guests would see. Used right, almost indestructible. Used wrong, well, it was ugly, I can tell you.

Eliminating paint failure starts with reading the label and following the directions. For best results, Rustoleum top coat needs a Rustoleum brand primer.

If you have surface rust, it has to go or be converted with rust reformer. If it's very light surface rust, use a Scotch-Brite pad to clean the chassis. Wipe it down with a degreaser, being liberal with the liquid, then prime and paint.

For the Stops Rust series of paint, Do Not put mineral spirits in the paint! This is the best way to create failure. The paint will say how much acetone to use for best results.

On the other hand, the rusty metal primer says how much mineral spirits to use.

To coat the tops of the frame rails without removing the bed, use a weenie roller from your favorite home improvement center.

Coated this way, parts held up well, even under the assault of highly chlorinated flume ride water. We also used the Professional series rattle can paint, too. All available from Graingers.

Just sayin' . . .

Ray
 
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  #21  
Old 07-31-2013, 11:06 PM
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Thanks Sir..

I may try the industrial rustoleum or Industrial Krylon paint.. Ad yes the same series primer. I do have my bed off! Just not taking the cab or motor
out!

If I go rustoleum then have decided I will prop. use the rusty metal primer!

I
 
  #22  
Old 08-01-2013, 01:44 AM
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A comment

Originally Posted by diesel&coffee
Thanks Sir..

I may try the industrial rustoleum or Industrial Krylon paint.. Ad yes the same series primer. I do have my bed off! Just not taking the cab or motor
out!

If I go rustoleum then have decided I will prop. use the rusty metal primer!

I
that rusty metal primer is wicked stuff. As long as the substrate is prepared per the directions, it isn't coming off anytime soon.

We painted my brother's motorcycle tank and fenders with Rustoleum Painter's Touch primer, topcoat and clearcoat. That was years ago and it still looks good. What we used would be considered a 'system', paints that are designed to work together.

Whatever system you decide to use, be it Rustoleum or Krylon, follow the directions closely.

What is critical is what the mfg. says about the re-coat time. If you wait too long, the new coat of paint/primer cannot get a grip on the previous layer of coating. The re-coat times will be listed on the cans.

Ray
 
  #23  
Old 08-01-2013, 04:00 AM
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Brad, i really think your problems is with the mineral spirits used to thin the paint. we have been using acetone for years with no problems at all here in New Jersey.
 
  #24  
Old 08-01-2013, 12:01 PM
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I am sorry, I miss spoke. I did use Acitone.

And it was regular , not industrial
 
  #25  
Old 08-01-2013, 01:35 PM
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  #26  
Old 08-01-2013, 01:55 PM
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I've used some Rustoleum. And I've used tractor paint from TSC. I've used hardener from TSC and some low cost stuff from NAPA. I've thinned with mineral spirits for brushing, acetone and even gas for spraying. These cheaper based paints do okay, BUT they have no UV protection and will fade if neglected and used for outside stuff...but I've had pretty good luck.

BTW, I've used these paints on 2 tractors, 3 or 4 trailers, my dad's 56 Ford car, an old work van, my toolboxes, and various suspension and underbody parts.

And Kudos for reviving a 2010 thread!
 
  #27  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:01 PM
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Here is my thread on protecting our new truck from rust. Still have more to do but a good start. I like the chassis saver! Just as nice as POR but seems to dry a little faster.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-it-ready.html
 
  #28  
Old 08-01-2013, 08:22 PM
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I Would love to use some 2 part spray stuff.. But can't use spray where I am at.. I need a brush product.. Yes I still wonder about rustolium but they sell a lot of industrial alkyd enamel.. Grangers carries by the boat load. It's used on costal industrial stuff.. Can't be total crap.. I may toss the dice to see for myself ..
 
  #29  
Old 08-02-2013, 08:55 PM
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So which chassis paint look smoother/better after painting?? POR 15, chassis saver, Master series??

That's brushing on!
 
  #30  
Old 08-02-2013, 09:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kevin206
These cheaper based paints do okay, BUT they have no UV protection and will fade if neglected and used for outside stuff...but I've had pretty good luck.

BTW, I've used these paints on 2 tractors, 3 or 4 trailers, my dad's 56 Ford car, an old work van, my toolboxes, and various suspension and underbody parts.

And Kudos for reviving a 2010 thread!
I see people post this in every thread on several different forums on rustoleum paint and no one has yet to show their faded paint job. While in fact there is photo proof of a car several years old that isn't faded at all. Either that person knew what they were doing or just got dumb lucky. Seeing the chassis with the rustoleum flaking earlier doesn't say much really either other than bad preparation honestly.
 


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