Rear Main Seal
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
From: Peterborough, Ontario
Rear Main Seal
I have a 52 flathead that I having trouble stopping a leak at the rear main seal, the engine is just rebuilt and I am hoping it is not an issue with the crank surface. I have changed the rope seal 3 times and still have a leak. Any suggestions on installation procedure as obviously I am doing something wrong.
Thanks
Thanks
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 129
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Yep, replace the rope it with the newer two piece molded rubber style; I would think it must be available with a like looking, and you can slide it (lubed) in with the crank in the truck by just lossening the crank bolts.
Last edited by Old F1; Aug 4, 2010 at 09:04 AM. Reason: sorry for typo / spelling, to early for me!
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 129
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Only if you make it one.
I was looking for a two piece on eBay (search), didn’t see one for a flaty, newer ones.
But this came up some kind of new rope type? I know nothing about this!
I still think the two piece is avilable somewhere.
I was looking for a two piece on eBay (search), didn’t see one for a flaty, newer ones.
But this came up some kind of new rope type? I know nothing about this!
1949-1951 V8 308 c.i., 337 c.i. Flathead
This rear main seal has been upgraded to a higher quality style of rope rear main seal. This new style of rope (Graphite Rope Teflon Coated (PTFE) Rear Main Seal) is highly conformable to the crankshaft and housing cavities, will hold up to high temperatures, and does not need to be pre-soaked in oil. Sealing performance is superior to both NOS asbestos ropes and their non-asbestos substitutes. Kits include two lengths of rope packing, side seals (if used), an installation instruction sheet, and a special knife for trimming.
This rear main seal has been upgraded to a higher quality style of rope rear main seal. This new style of rope (Graphite Rope Teflon Coated (PTFE) Rear Main Seal) is highly conformable to the crankshaft and housing cavities, will hold up to high temperatures, and does not need to be pre-soaked in oil. Sealing performance is superior to both NOS asbestos ropes and their non-asbestos substitutes. Kits include two lengths of rope packing, side seals (if used), an installation instruction sheet, and a special knife for trimming.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,795
Likes: 129
From: Windermere Valley,B.C. Ca
Mac’s appears to have the super new type.
Rear Main Oil Seal - 239 Flathead - MAC's Antique Auto Parts
Rear Main Oil Seal - 239 Flathead - MAC's Antique Auto Parts
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,292
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Every FelPro kit I've bought comes with both that "new" graphite and a white teflon-impregnated rope seal that is even "newer".
How bad is it leaking? You can't expect it to be totally leak free, that just isn't the way rope seals work.
Usually when a new seal leaks badly, it was cut short (not enough rope in the groove). It is really hard to get it deep enough into the groove without something like the official tool; a round piece of steel about the same diameter as the crank.
How bad is it leaking? You can't expect it to be totally leak free, that just isn't the way rope seals work.
Usually when a new seal leaks badly, it was cut short (not enough rope in the groove). It is really hard to get it deep enough into the groove without something like the official tool; a round piece of steel about the same diameter as the crank.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 391
Likes: 0
From: Peterborough, Ontario
I believe that is my problem, probably trimmed it too much. I see some that are to be trimmed and some that are not. I will give it one more try and leave it up some.
Trending Topics
New User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
From: Winnipeg
I bought a gasket kit and I think it has both types of seals. I wasn't sure which ones to use.I guess the black ones are the way to go although the appear to be a bit flatter than the white ones. Do I have the right ones? I'll try to take a picture of them and post it.
The other question is, since I have the engine out and on a rotating stand, should I remove the crankshaft and replace both at the same time?
I am just concerned about getting it and the rods torqued properly.
I have been procrastinating about this for a while and would like to get the truck running again. I don't mind a small oil leak,it's a work truck for the yard and not really anywhere else.
Thanks
Bob
The other question is, since I have the engine out and on a rotating stand, should I remove the crankshaft and replace both at the same time?
I am just concerned about getting it and the rods torqued properly.
I have been procrastinating about this for a while and would like to get the truck running again. I don't mind a small oil leak,it's a work truck for the yard and not really anywhere else.
Thanks
Bob
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,292
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
Best Gasket's graphite rear seal is supposed to be the hot stuff. I used it on my rebuild and it's leaking... not bad, but it drips.
I don't know of any one-piece lip seal that works on the rear of a flatmotor. Replacing the part of the rope seal with the engine together (crank installed) isn't likely to be successful. It doesn't just "slip in there", it needs to be rolled in with a lot of force, then cut. Possible to nick the crank trimming it and make things worse.
I don't know of any one-piece lip seal that works on the rear of a flatmotor. Replacing the part of the rope seal with the engine together (crank installed) isn't likely to be successful. It doesn't just "slip in there", it needs to be rolled in with a lot of force, then cut. Possible to nick the crank trimming it and make things worse.
New User
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
I just did an oil pan front and rear rope seal from best gasket. The material was graphite and it just popped right in. No effort was needed. I left 1/2 of an inch on both sides just in case the crank pushed it further in the grove. Trimmed there material gasket on all four points it met the rope seal than used a couple dabs of rtv on these trimmed places to insure that the different materials sealed correctly. Hope this helps I did not change top seals just bottoms no leaks. This was a flat head 226.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,292
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
The Best Gasket seals were highly recommended to me, so I had them used when my engine was rebuilt. They leaked like a sieve. The machinist who installed them does plenty of these engines, so I don't know what the issue could have been. But when I had to pull it apart again, I used the FelPro, and it's tight as they get. I do like the Best kit because of the "popsicle stick" they give you to trim it. I used it on the FelPro, too.
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Middletown, Ohio
1ford1prowler
Well today I am finally biting the bullet. I have a small leak in the rear main. This truck sat fro 15 years and so the fly wheel must have rusted causing a chatter on take off. Today it gets a new clutch pressure plate and throw out bearing and resurfaced flywheel. New rear main and oil pan gaskets. One question I have is the clutch, I need opinions on three fingered clutch over the spring type with the many segments. I have read everyone's ideas on the rear main so I will post my success or failure later Ha Ha. I was advised to make a pan 1/2" deep to put under the motor and transmission with a 3/8 tube run from the bottom of the pan back into the tail pipe so to burn and empty the pan. This just may be my last resort as I hate a car that leaks on the driveway. I have a 1946 Ford Pickup all stock flathead V8.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,292
Likes: 1,055
From: NM
That pan idea is just silly. No, these aren't tight as modern cars, but the losses out the RMS isn't enough to warrant that.
I'm not sure there is a diaphragm type PP for the 59-series engine. I have one on my 8BA, and really like it, but it requires the use of a different throwout bearing. Your clutch linkage may not have the correct amount of throw for a diaphragm, too. My advice would be to stick with the Long-type (3-fingered) PP, and since you are in OH, I'd really recommend getting it from Fort Wayne Clutch in IN. They do things right with quality US-made parts. Setup of the fingers is critical to smooth clutch operation, and they know how to do it right. (You should NOT adjust the fingers)
I'm not sure there is a diaphragm type PP for the 59-series engine. I have one on my 8BA, and really like it, but it requires the use of a different throwout bearing. Your clutch linkage may not have the correct amount of throw for a diaphragm, too. My advice would be to stick with the Long-type (3-fingered) PP, and since you are in OH, I'd really recommend getting it from Fort Wayne Clutch in IN. They do things right with quality US-made parts. Setup of the fingers is critical to smooth clutch operation, and they know how to do it right. (You should NOT adjust the fingers)
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
waylen89
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
1
Oct 12, 2015 02:23 PM
dani9678
Ford Inline Six, 200, 250, 4.9L / 300
6
Mar 11, 2009 09:49 AM
78oldsmokey
335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland
8
Aug 2, 2005 08:48 AM
cmlind
Small Block V8 (221, 260, 289, 5.0/302, 5.8/351W)
5
Feb 11, 2005 09:36 AM
