Hi all,

I was giving my truck it's monthly once over this past weekend (2 weekends ago now) and while crawling around under it I found that the passenger side lower most rear leaf was about to slip out the back of the assembly. It's been approx: one month since I last did an inspection so it must have started to slip out recently. Of course I may have missed it last time, but not too likely. I also found that the bolt (center pin) that runs through the passenger side leafs has shifted (I'm guessing it's broken). And also last month I did notice on the drivers side one of the leaf spacers/shims? was broken and out of position, but wasn't so worried about it. Now it's time to get this sorted out.

The truck is not being driven until I can repair it myself or take it to a spring shop which does put a bit of a crimp in my work shedule, but I'm ok with using my Montana to keep things moving along with work until I get this sorted out.

Down to business:
I would like to maybe attempt it myself, but I have never done any kind of leaf spring work and I must admit I'm feeling a little intimidated with this project. I'm comfortable with most repairs, but I just don't know what I might be in for to perform a proper repair or if I need any specialty tools for this. I do have a good set of hand tools, jack, jack stands etc,,,... I do know that my torque wrench might not be sturdy enought. It's only a 150lbs max and I'm thinking the torque specs might call for 200 plus lbs for re-assembly? (recently found out 125lbs is needed for my 5/8 u-bolts)

Question:
Do any of you "leaf spring" experienced folk think this is something I can tackle myself? Or should I get it into a spring shop when I can? I'm not even sure what something like this might cost at a spring shop? Can anyone tell me a ballpark cost (CAD) I might be in for to get this done by a spring shop? Complete disassembly, paint, new u-bolts, new center pins, etc,,,

I suppose to even get the truck to a spring shop I should at least get the lower spring back into a safer position,,,
Can someone offer info/help with getting the rear passenger bottom spring back into position (or close to it) temporarily to safely drive the truck to a spring shop if I end up going that route?
I'm thinking I need to remove the lower shock bolt and jack the body up to take pressure off the springs so I can tap the lower leaf back into position. Is it that easy?

I'm also considering reconditioning the track bars. Would it be easier to tackle that project while the rear leafs are being repaired or can the track bars be removed ok without messing with the axle?

Maybe there's a step by step rear leaf removal guide somewhere I can use?

Thanks,
Rick...

Passenger Side - Lower Leaf (A)


Passenger Side - Lower Leaf (B)


Passenger Side - Shifted/Broken Center Pin


Drivers Side - Broken Shim/Spacer

 

Looks like you have a broken center bolt.

You will need a torque wrench that goes higher. U-bolt torque for rear leaf springs is 185 ft. lbs. if you go with stock U-bolts when you replace them.


If I can do mine, you can do yours. I did mine last year. You will need new U-bolts, center pins. Depending on the condition of your shackles and bushing, it might be a good time to replace them as well.

No need to remove the shock bolt. No special tools other than the torque wrench are needed. The hanger and shackle bolts can be pretty corroded. So something to cut the bolts off may be need. Believe it or not, I used my Dremel tool.

If you want to do a complete disassembly:
1. Support the truck on jack stands at the frame. High enough that the tire is just touching the ground.
2. Place a jack under the passenger side (or drivers side) of the rear axle and raise the axle a little. You want to have the jack supporting the weight of the axle but you don't want to compress the springs. Remove the tire.
3. Remove the U-bolts.
4. Lower the axle slightly to remove any remaining tension on the springs.
5. Remove the lower shackle bolt which secures the shackles to the frame bracket.
6. Now, remove the bolt that secures the front of the spring to its hanger.
7. Lower the jack and remove the spring. Don't loose the plastic piece the springs sits on top of. If it is cracked, a piece of teflon works. I found thin teflon cutting sheets (like cutting board) at Walmart that worked.

Remove the bolt if equipped or just bend the C shape clips open enough so you can separate the leafs. If the bushings are bad you can remove them at this point (press them out or burn them out as some have done. Of course, you have to remove the bolt holding the shackle to the springs to get at that bushing. If the bushings are fine just leave the shackle attached. You can then sand, prime, and paint everything. Rattle can stuff seems to work just fine.

Reassembly:
1. Place the main leaf (the one that attaches to the shackle and front hanger) upside down.
2. Stack each successive spring on top of it. Aligning the holes. On pre-2008 trucks the springs are longer on one side of the center pin than the other so make sure you orient them correctly.
3. Place a long dowel or equivalent through the holes to keep them aligned.
4. Use two large C-clamps to compress the spring pack. One C-clamp on either side of the center pin hole.
5. Remove the dowel and insert the center pin and torque it to 25 ft.lbs.
6. Bend the C-clips back in to place or replace the bolt.
6. If you removed the shackle, reinstall it on the springs (185 ft. lbs.).
7. Install the rear shackle end first on the truck. Place the springs on top of the block aligning the center pin in the hole in the block on top of the axle. Make sure the thin plastic piece is between the block and the springs. Reattach the shackle to the frame bracket (185 ft. lbs.).
8. Raise the axle and springs with the jack. You will likely need to compress the spring a bit to get the front of the spring to align with the hole in the front hanger. You may need to insert 1/4 inch spacer on top of the spring (between it and the hanger) to get the proper vertical alignment to install the bolt. Install the leaf spring to front hanger bolt (185 ft. lbs.).
9. Install top plate and the U-bolts 185 ft. lbs. if using Ford U-bolts (Use what ever is recommend by the manufacture of the U-bolt).

If any of the bolts need to be replaced either get them from your Ford dealer or use Grade 8 bolts of equivalent size. If the bolts you substitute have coarser threads than the originals, reduce the torque by 10 to 15%. Replace the center bolt if needed with an equivalent or a grade eight bolt can also be substituted. You will need to round off the head some so it will fit.

FYI - You can do one side at a time and I do recommend you do both.

Writing this on the fly here. I will check latter to see if I left something out.

 

its easy, i installed add a leafs last year by myself and it wasnt hard. i willl say get a good buddy to help because they are heavy and four hands are better than two. just make sure you have two big strong c clamps and a good straight edge to get the springs nice and straight

 

Thanks for the write up tawells01,

I will be checking back for edits or additional input before I start taking things apart. The tough part will be finding the time to get it all done in one shot, but I'm looking forward to getting started on it soon.

Question:
Is there any reason NOT to oil/lube between the leafs during re-assembly? It seems like a good thing to do to keep the rust from starting soon after re-assembly. I'll be cleaning and painting everything also.

Rick...

 

Thanks for the heads up SDS,

Looks like I need to pick up some sturdy clamps along with a new 250lbs torque wrench.
New tools,,, Cool...

Any special clamps I should be looking for? Are there specialty leaf spring clamps that might make it easier?
I've got several clamps from 6" to 6'. They are standard wood type clamps, but they do have good sturdy grip. I do also have a few steel c-clamps of various sizes as you mentioned so I guess I can get by if there is nothing better available.
I guess I just can't visualize how the clamping will work while re-assembling the leafs. It will probably make sense once I get into it.

Rick...

 

when i installed my rear add a leaf i put anti seize between each leaf where the center pin goes thought to stop water from rusting the steel and eventually breaking the spring. even though my springs had plastic between each one to stop this i just wanted to make sure they wouldn't rust and break.

 

I just used two regular c-clamps that had 6" openings. One on either side of the center pin.

Place a c-clamp on either side of the center pin hole. The dowel should be inserted in the center pin hole to keep all the springs aligned while you are clamping them. You are clamping them so you can install the center pin.

I would suggest using a dry graphite lubricant between the leafs. An oil or grease will tend to collect dirt.

I have made some updates to the procedure posted earlier.

 

I spent a few hours last night getting the truck jacked up, blocked and wheel off then attempted to remove the damaged passenger rear leaf.

After I got the frame raised and secured and the wheel off I found right away that the track bar box that is attached to the axle was a bit loose (now I know where the minor clunk I was getting might have been coming from).
I also acually found the broken piece of the center pin in the track bar box.
I attempted to remove the bolts on the track bar box to expose the u-bolts and got 2 of them off ok, but they are tricky. It's very difficult to get a wrench or vise grips on the bottom lock nut because they are located very tight to the box which leaves barley half of the lock nuts exposed to hold while working the bolt loose from the top. I'm thinking maybe who ever installed the track bar box put the bolts in the wrong way. It looks to me that the lock nuts should have been installed from the top for much easier work getting the bolts out.

Anywho,,, I ended up re-thinking my situation and putting the bolts and wheel back on. I was looking forward to digging into this project and cleaning up the springs and track bars while doing the repair, but I think it will simply take me too long to complete this project on my own. I need the truck on the road for work so I just might have to take it into a shop. I am also a little concerned with getting the track bars adjusted properly during re-assembly so unless I change my mind again through today I will probably just get the truck into a shop. I was very disappointed, but I guess it might be best to get it done by experienced hands to make sure it's done properly.

Rick...