manual vs auto..again...
Sticks were great and still are great but all these
tranys, be it auto or stick are to lightly made
all zf 's are cast aluminum ,don't use real gear oil like they used to.Now we use thin atf in them which makes them noisey. The transfercases also are made to light .
What your fathers ,fathers did with their trucks
isn't going to happen with these trucks of this day and age ! and run or last as long!
They just are to lightly built even though we think their superduty's they don't compare to trucks of yesterday. look at all the plastic and thin guage metal being used .but we want fuel mpg's .
Well Just my opinion!
I love sticks, always have and my dad drove nothing but sticks till the day he died !
just like I will!!!!!
Rich
i can agree with the sheet metal on the outside being thin, but i sure do like the Sterlin 10.25 rear end in my 2001 F250 more than i like the dana44 thats on the rear of my 1979 F250..... And my 1979 F250 has a rated tow capacity of 7,700 lbs, my new 01F250 was rated at like 12,500 with 3.73's and no lift, Now i will say that old 79 IS TOUGH AS NAILS, but laying underneath the two, everthing on my 01 looks twice as big and strong as my 79,
just my observations...........
now if your talking about chevy's, the seem to get smaller driveterrain as the years go on..... but that doesnt seem to be the case with the new superduty's.
Jetjock16
My brother-in-law had a 351 and E4OD in his utility box F250 that was overloaded every day of its life and it went over 300K
without a rebuild. Now THATS tough.
post #3
Quikirk:
Thanks for your reply. Do you know if other owners have experienced this clunkiness? The symptom I encounter almost feels like a (slightly) dragging clutch, as though if I were able to depress the clutch pedal another half inch or so, everything would work smoothly. Also, have you found the shifting to smooth out as mileage has increased, or not?
I also observe the truck to move forward ever so slightly (sometimes) when shifting from neutral into first, which just doesn't seem right to me. My old Dodge Powerwagon (New Process 435 4 speed transmission), for example, never exhibited this behavior, nor has any other manual transmission I've ever driven.
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
I believe the hydraluc clutch has alot to do with what your feeling.
mine exhibits all of what your feeling.
If you are having problems going from 1st or low
to reverse ,i suggest you have it looked at .
pilot bearings can go bad and cause the drag feeling.
The slave/throwout bearing also leaking slightly
will cause the same problem.
My orignal 6spd was replaced due to internal
clearances were wrong from factory ,destroyed
pilot and front input shaft bearing.
Rich
post #4
Quikirk:
The "surging" from nuetral to first is exactly what mine is doing too, and I'm not surprised that the situation hasn't improved after 4000 miles. Thanks again for that detailed reply.
daimon1054:
Thank you for your feedback.
FortyFords:
Very interesting reply, thank you. What model year is your truck? You stated that Yours exhibits all (the symptoms I've described)...do you mean even after the tranny was replaced? Could you describe in more detail the process by which you were able to have Ford to acknowledge the transmission defect and then replace it?
The hydraulic actuation may, as you suggest, be the source of the problem. Air that cannot be purged from the system would prevent the slave cylinder pushrod from fully extending, for example. I've been able to observe that the master cylinder stroke(after clutch pedal has been fully depressed) is about 1 1/4", which results in about 3/4" to 1" of slave cylinder pushrod stroke. These numbers are very rough measurements obtained with the slave cylinder removed from the transmission housing. What I haven't yet been able to measure is the maximum travel of the clutch release lever, so I don't yet know if further movement of it is even possible. I was disappointed to note that the truck was delivered with the clutch fluid reservoir-to-master cylinder hose incorrectly routed! The correct routing is directly over the top of the brake master cylinder(NOT over the brake fluid reservoir!), so that the line travels from clutch master cylinder to reservoir in a gradual, ever-increasing upward slope. If it dips down and then back up again, the resulting high point can trap air and prevent it from being purged during bleeding.
Next step will be to let my dealer's service manager take a test drive. I expect his response to be something like "These things are always a bit sticky when new; just let it break in and I'm sure it will improve". I will post back here from time to time as I learn more and keep you guys apprised of my progress. In the meantime, please let's hear more stories of your manual transmission/clutch experiences.
I wish I could offer some insight here but my truck hasn't got here yet! It should be here in a couple weeks, then I would be glad to share what I think.
The truck I test drove was very smooth without any problems. It does have a fairly tight shift pattern though...I didn't think it would start off in 3rd gear but it did!
I'll keep you posted!
JUST THOUGHT I'D THROW IN MY 2 CENTS.
I'VE GOT ABOUT 5200 MILES ON MY 6-SPEED(WITH MANUAL HUBS) AND I HAVEN'T NOTICED ANY SHIFTING TROUBLES AT ALL. EVEN WHEN I LET ER HAVE IT AND SPEED SHIFT IT AT 5000 RPM I DON'T HAVE ANY PROBLEM WITH IT. NO RESISTANCE OR SLIDING FEELING HERE.
I DO HAVE A BUDDY WITH A '02 V-10 6-SPEED AND HIS WAS HARD TO SHIFT FROM 3RD TO 4TH UNLESS YOU HAD THE CLUTCH STUCK INTO THE FLOOR CARPET. THAT SEEMED TO GO AWAY AS MILES WENT UP AND IS NOT NOTICABLE NOW. I THINK HE HAS ABOUT 13,000 ON IT.


