Aluminum Molding Question
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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Aluminum Molding Question
Question,
All the molding is in good shape on my 1799 Ranger F100. Is it possible to polish it back as good as buying new molding?
If so what product (polish) would I use?
Should I do it with my Drill or Dremil? What kind of polishing wheel should I buy?
Bill
All the molding is in good shape on my 1799 Ranger F100. Is it possible to polish it back as good as buying new molding?
If so what product (polish) would I use?
Should I do it with my Drill or Dremil? What kind of polishing wheel should I buy?
Bill
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,056
Likes: 10
From: Indiana, PA
Wow, I didn,t know they made FORD rangers in 1799 HaHa. As for the grill and other trim your best bet will be to unandianize it. Here is a forum to explain it. Works pretty slick https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...dent-trim.html
Good luck
Good luck
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
Great question. Polishing the aluminum trim can result with a higher luster than stock. Visit Eastwood's website and take a look at their buffing wheels and grades of rouge (buffing compound). The rouge comes in different colors and you work progressively to finer grits. I recommend you do it in three steps and, very important, use a dedicated
buffing wheel for each grit to avoid cross-contamination. After using a wheel, store it in a Zip-Lock bag and save it for next time.
You can use a drill or dremel but that would take forever. I find it much easier to have the buffing wheels mounted on a bench grinder so both hands are free to manipulate the part. Lastly, move the part fast or you'll risk burning the part.
After polishing, the parts can either be maintained with chrome polish (like Wenol in the blue tube), clear gloss powdercoat, or a couple of clear coats.
buffing wheel for each grit to avoid cross-contamination. After using a wheel, store it in a Zip-Lock bag and save it for next time.
You can use a drill or dremel but that would take forever. I find it much easier to have the buffing wheels mounted on a bench grinder so both hands are free to manipulate the part. Lastly, move the part fast or you'll risk burning the part.
After polishing, the parts can either be maintained with chrome polish (like Wenol in the blue tube), clear gloss powdercoat, or a couple of clear coats.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
Likes: 82
From: NorCal
1799 Dentside ...
Wow, I didn,t know they made FORD rangers in 1799 HaHa. As for the grill and other trim your best bet will be to unandianize it. Here is a forum to explain it. Works pretty slick https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...dent-trim.html
Good luck
Good luck
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 811
Likes: 4
Not sure if you are talking about stainless steel trim or aluminum trim. If the trim is aluminum, it has a coating on it called anodizing. Anodizing protects the aluminum from corrosion. Not the type of corrosion you are used to seeing in the form of rust. It usually turns a milky or cloudy color.
If the trim is stainless, you can polish it using any number of products. If you want to clear over it, you can use a number of clear products, or leave it alone.
If you try polishing anodized trim, you will probably remove some of the anodizing, but not all. This will leave a blotchy finish that will corrode. If it is anodized your have a few options. 1. Leaver it alone 2. take it to a professional and have it re-anodized, 3. strip the anodizing using a commercial product (don't use oven cleaner, spray is available through Eastwood), buff and then clear with clear coat or put a clear powder coat over it.
If the trim is stainless, you can polish it using any number of products. If you want to clear over it, you can use a number of clear products, or leave it alone.
If you try polishing anodized trim, you will probably remove some of the anodizing, but not all. This will leave a blotchy finish that will corrode. If it is anodized your have a few options. 1. Leaver it alone 2. take it to a professional and have it re-anodized, 3. strip the anodizing using a commercial product (don't use oven cleaner, spray is available through Eastwood), buff and then clear with clear coat or put a clear powder coat over it.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 811
Likes: 4
Oops forgot. If you can remove the trim from the vehicle , I'd take it off and screw it to a piece of wood slightly bigger than the piece you are trying to polish. By screwing it to a piece of wood, you minimize the possibility of bending the heck out of it. If you have a bench grinder or a buffing wheel I'd use that rather than your Dremel or drill. buy a couple of stitched wheels *Harbor freight is as good as any) and polishing compound for the material that you are trying to polish. You will probably find that you can get away with a medium and fine grit compound (unless you have to do some repairs that entail filing the metal), followed by a metal polish. I like Mother's mag wheel polish.
If you don't have a grinder or buffer, I'd still take it off the vehicle and screw it down to a bench, then use your drill motor with the appropriate buffing pad. It'll be slower than a bench buffer.
The problem with leaving the metal on the vehicle is you take a big chance of ruining you paint. If you have to leave it on the car, use a lot of masking tape to protect your finish.
If you don't have a grinder or buffer, I'd still take it off the vehicle and screw it down to a bench, then use your drill motor with the appropriate buffing pad. It'll be slower than a bench buffer.
The problem with leaving the metal on the vehicle is you take a big chance of ruining you paint. If you have to leave it on the car, use a lot of masking tape to protect your finish.
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Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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Can you tell I was out late working on the truck. 1799? What was I thinking. 1977.
Thanks for all the great information. I want to get started on it right away. I think I will go for the buffing wheel mounted on my bench.
Bill
Thanks for all the great information. I want to get started on it right away. I think I will go for the buffing wheel mounted on my bench.
Bill
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Lead Driver
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 5,250
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From: West Virginia
If you remove the aluminum trim and try to polish it on a bench buffer you better be careful. That trim is really easy to bend and its hard to get back on right if you jack it up.
2 of my trucks have that trim. I'm leaving mine as is, as I don't really care for bling.
Because its squared off you will almost certainly have to remove it from the truck to do a decent job on it. If you strip the anodizing off of it and buff it it will gleam, and if you keep it sealed with zoopseal or clearcoat it, it should look good for a long time. Just use a light touch. that trim is delicate and hard to replace.
2 of my trucks have that trim. I'm leaving mine as is, as I don't really care for bling.
Because its squared off you will almost certainly have to remove it from the truck to do a decent job on it. If you strip the anodizing off of it and buff it it will gleam, and if you keep it sealed with zoopseal or clearcoat it, it should look good for a long time. Just use a light touch. that trim is delicate and hard to replace.
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Junior User
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Well I am going to prep the truck for a new paint job so I want to remove all the trim and put it back when the truck is all painted. So I don;t mind removing it.
Any suggestions on how to remove the trim without damaging it? How do I release it from the clips?
Bill
Any suggestions on how to remove the trim without damaging it? How do I release it from the clips?
Bill
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