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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Running hot

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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 10:28 AM
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rust muffin 66
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Running hot

I just (1 mo ago if that) got a 66 F100 Custom Cab with a 300 I6. It had been sitting for a year (the guy said he started it up once a month but obviously hadn't) and although it runs fairly smoothly and it is rather hot outside it runs at the top of the operating range and sometimes higher (I had to stop taking it out of town or I have to pull over once or twice and wait) I'm a broke kid and haven't gotten a manual yet because I have bills to pay. I know I have a few leaks at the the radiator cap but keep it full of coolant anyway so I don't think that's too much of a problem. I was thinking idle mixture screws but I don't know at what they should be set. If someone could tell me and/ or has any knowledge on what my thermostat is reading off of so I can see if it's working properly I would appreciate it greatly. Thanks.
-Lucy
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 11:36 AM
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Lucy, Lets see if we can get you on a path to figure out what your problem is. First off, these old trucks have a large open frontal area and when moving usually don't run hot. They wont idle in the heat, but once moving they are ok.

You should have a 50/50 mix for coolant, and keep the full level down a couple inches for expansion. Does that sound about right for your truck?




John
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 11:42 AM
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Yeah. I keep it a little over the top of the fins so I know it's full but it leaks from top of fins so there is no point in putting it an inch below the top like my owners manual says because I lose everything above the actual radiator. I'm thinking it might be a thermostat or engine problem because it says it's running hot and then I go though a few stop lights and it cools down which doesn't seem like a radiator problem to me but something else.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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Does it seem to be boiling when you pull over and stop?





John
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 11:52 AM
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No. I don't think so but I've always been on the interstate and don't jump out into traffic right away it runs at the top of the operating range never over in town, it only goes over at higher speeds.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 11:55 AM
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Not sure, if there's a leak at the upper portion of the radiator then believe the engine is incline to run hotter. Not familiar with radiator 'stop leak' compounds, tend to believe it's a temporary fix and going to present problems. IMHO, better to either re-core, or replace sooner than later.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:00 PM
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OK, Sounds like the radiator may need replacing, but I wouldn't get overly concerned about the gauge reading until you learn the truck a little more.

I didn't say ignore, just monitor.




John
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:06 PM
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As far as fixing the radiator my boyfriend (who has old plymouths) has had luck with soddering leaks with the radiator in place and full of coolant I guess the trouble is now finding exactly where the leaks are and getting him to do it (I am NOT a good sodderer).
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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Hi Lucy. I'm in the same boat as you. Bought my '64 a month ago and it's got the original radiator. I drove it 2.5 hours home and it ran fine on two-lane roads at 45-55, even with stoplights every mile or so at one point in the trip. But when I got it on the highway and attempted 65 mph for about 20 mins. it went from 185-degrees to about 215. I pulled over, let it cool down and headed home on a back road after that. I don't think these old trucks like to go fast for too long with that stock radiator. I think we need to upgrade our radiators, like John said, or just stay in town with the trucks. Welcome to FTE!
 

Last edited by Matt '64; Jul 29, 2010 at 12:15 PM. Reason: typo
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:12 PM
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You can drain the fluid down, & pour it back in after the repair is done.



John
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt '64
Hi Lucy. I'm in the same boat as you. Bought my '64 a month ago and it's got the original radiator. I drove it 2.5 hours home and it ran fine on two-lane roads at 45-55, even with stoplights every mile or so at one point in the trip. But when I got it on the highway and attempted 65 mph for about 20 mins. it went from 185-degrees to about 215. I pulled over, let it cool down and headed home on a back road after that. I don't think these old trucks like to go fast for too long with that stock radiator. I think we need to upgrade our radiators, like Bill said, or just stay in town with the trucks. Welcome to FTE!
I don't have those issues in my truck, I can run 80-85 mph on the big roads when traffic is flowing with no elevated temps at all.



John
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:23 PM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
I don't have those issues in my truck, I can run 80-85 mph on the big roads when traffic is flowing with no elevated temps at all.



John

But your radiator isn't '60s-vintage, right? A new radiator is on my to-do list.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
You can drain the fluid down, & pour it back in after the repair is done.



John
Well I'm about to head to a junkyard a little ways out of town so I think my fluid will probably drain itself down! (joke, kind of) Hopefully I can find a few things but my friend just said they have old trucks and she didn't have a name or number so there's a big chance I'm about to go look at a bunch of old dodges and chevys. Thanks for the help guys I'll let you know how it goes.
-Lucy
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:26 PM
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Never had a problem with the stock radiators, having said that; had an interesting experience and as a result will not purchase another aftermarket water inlet that uses the rubber 'O' ring. If shopping for radiators they are fairly interchangable just need to measure and note whether radiator has 'inner' and 'outer' mounts, took me couple trips to figure out the difference.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 12:27 PM
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No, I installed a new radiator 12 years ago when I did the driveline rebuild.




John
 
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