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I've decided I'm just going to replace the studs with M8 x 1.25 x 35 stainless bolts which from what I've read is fine instead of buying the high dollar factory studs.. I was just wondering do I go with stainless lock washers or just stainless flat washers? I'm assuming locking ones but, wanted to be sure. Also, wheres the cheapest place to buy them? Home depot, local hardware store, or?
Now this will be interesting, because there are different grades of stainless steel. For instance, some stainless will attract a magnet and some will not. Somehow I doubt Home Depot bolts would be good for a high temp automotive application. Lets see what the guru's say....
The home depot bolts are more than likely 18-8 stainless bolts made by the lowest bidder. Bolts made out of 316 stainless are fairly common but they are still soft. Companies do produce hard bolts but they use a 400 series stainless or a special stainless alloy folowed by heat treat and passivation. Passivation is what brings back the SS rust protection. These processes really adds to the bolts cost. The problem with stainless bolts is they have a poor shear strength because they are softer than an ordinary grade 5 bolt. If it were me I would would use a grade 5 or 8 bolt with an ultra corrosion resistant coating which you can get from Mcmaster-Carr. The bolts on my 08' cover are steel bolts with that coating and 2 years later they are rust free.
Would it be a safer bet to just get the ford replacements that are suppose to correct the original issue? Is there no aftermarket supplier for them to save some coin?
The OE replacements will eventually suffer the same fate. A couple years ago my dad got his replaced with OE replacements which are the same as the old ones they pulled out. My 04' came from the factory with stainless studs.
Hmmm.... I guess now I'm really confused on what to do now. What exactly are most of you replacing your factory studs with then? I want something thats going to last a long time.
I went with a set of long tube headers which solved the problem. If you want to retain the stock manifolds I would try a grade 5 or 8 bolt with a good corrosion resistant coating. The problem with the stock manifolds is they are thick, heavy and expand/contract a lot which is hard on the studs.
I'll check home depot tonight and let you guys know.
As far as a good grade 5 or 8 bolt with a good corrosion resistant... Where would I get them? I'd like to stay away from ordering online when it comes to nuts and bolts.
Local auto parts store, NOT a name-brand one, had a load of stuff. I used "zinc plated" grade 8's to bolt up my ebay headers. With anti-seize on the threads, with lock washers, and 18-8 STAINLESS flat washers against the header flange.
I'll check home depot tonight and let you guys know.
As far as a good grade 5 or 8 bolt with a good corrosion resistant... Where would I get them? I'd like to stay away from ordering online when it comes to nuts and bolts.
Since you want to buy locally, grade 10.9 yellow zinc bolts will work and be widely available. They are strong and the yellow zinc does an ok job at keeping the rust at bay. I would do what Krewat did with the stainless washers and anti-seize. You can get all the bolts and washers from Fastenal. Fastenal has stores all over the world, they are not the cheapest but you can get what your after. Locations | Fastenal
See what "hardness" those Home Depot bolts are and report back.
Standard 18-8 and 316 stainless hardware is not hardness rated just tensile strength.
Tensile stregth (from McMaster.com)
18-8 - 100,000 psi Min
316 - 101,500 psi Min
Bumax 88 - 116,000 psi Min
Grade 10.9 - 150,00 psi Min Hardness 32-39 Rc (A file is roughly 62Rc)
I would buy grade or better aircraft or marine stainless studs and use red Loctite on them, in the heads, provided there was enough room to install the manifolds/headers and have 2 or 3 threads showing after waffle stainless washers and nuts were installed with a dab of antisieze on the threads for the nuts, of course.
Loctite® Threadlocker Red 271™ is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).
Probably not the best product to use on exhaust manifold bolts...
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