TFI Distributor Problem
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 5
From: Delaware
Tim says that 10 degrees play is excessive. I checked the timing chain play by taking the play out of distributor/cam gear by turning the rotor by hand. The timing chain play is no more than a few degrees. The play that I am seeing is mostly in the dist/cam gear mesh.
I am considering converting to a DIS.
I am considering converting to a DIS.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 5
From: Delaware
I took the distributor out again, and compared it to an older Mallory Unilite distributor that I have. They both look about the same. I looked down the distributor hole again. This time I think that the cam gear does appear to be somewhat sharpened. It's not a point, but it is narrowed.
Going to a DIS will will not solve the problem. I stiil need the cam gear for the oil pump.
Going to a DIS will will not solve the problem. I stiil need the cam gear for the oil pump.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 2
From: chicago burbs
you can use a sacrificial bronze gear to avoid further wear on the cam gear... a polymer gear would really be nice but they seem to have dropped off the face of the planet. they were going for $100 or so when they were available
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2001
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Likes: 5
From: Delaware
I need to update this thread. I pulled the cam, and returned it to Comp Cams for warranty replacement. The cam drive gear was worn. They gave me 50% off a replacement.
I ordered the same grind, but went with a Full Base Circle cam, rather than the Reduced Base Circle like the old cam. I also ordered a set of Lunati Tie-bar HR lifters from Tim Meyer.
While I had it apart, I decided to try to install an EDIS ignition. I got a Cam Sensor from a Ford Windstar 3.8L, and a pair of coil packs from 2 Dodge Neons, and an EDIS-8 controller from a full size Ford with a 4.6. I purchased a Mega-squirt 36-1 tooth crank wheel and Ford crank sensor from Boost Engineering.
I needed an adapter for the cam sensor to fit my block. I am having that made.
In the meantime, I installed the new cam and lifters, and put the motor back together. I completed all the wiring, and am waiting for the cam sensor & adapter. With a little luck this could be running this weekend.
I ordered the same grind, but went with a Full Base Circle cam, rather than the Reduced Base Circle like the old cam. I also ordered a set of Lunati Tie-bar HR lifters from Tim Meyer.
While I had it apart, I decided to try to install an EDIS ignition. I got a Cam Sensor from a Ford Windstar 3.8L, and a pair of coil packs from 2 Dodge Neons, and an EDIS-8 controller from a full size Ford with a 4.6. I purchased a Mega-squirt 36-1 tooth crank wheel and Ford crank sensor from Boost Engineering.
I needed an adapter for the cam sensor to fit my block. I am having that made.
In the meantime, I installed the new cam and lifters, and put the motor back together. I completed all the wiring, and am waiting for the cam sensor & adapter. With a little luck this could be running this weekend.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 2,003
Likes: 2
From: chicago burbs
http://www.aemelectronics.com/engine...dsor-block-701
if all that don't work out you can try the AEM EPM for 351W, just swap on a Cleveland dizzy gear and it should be good to go but it's 24-1
if all that don't work out you can try the AEM EPM for 351W, just swap on a Cleveland dizzy gear and it should be good to go but it's 24-1
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58, az, bronco, cam, distributor, distributorproblem, disturber, driven, ford, location, mallory, performance, problems, reviews, tfi
