Sending unit install. How hard?
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Richmond, VA
Sending unit install. How hard?
I'd like to replace my sending unit so I have a working gas gauge. Since my odo is all wonky as well, I'm tired of guessing how much gas I might have. Does the tank have to be dropped? I'm guessing yes. Is there any way of testing the current sending unit to make sure that's the problem before I decide to take on this project? Could it possibly be anything else? All my other gauges work fine (full gauges, not idiot lights).
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Joined: Feb 2008
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From: Loganville, WI
First thing I would do is make sure none of the wires for it are broke or exposed etc. I found the easiest way is to just drop the tank, as long as the bolts for the tank straps are not rusted solid it's not to bad to drop unless you have a full tank of fuel. Pretty much just the tank strap bolts then unhook the fuel line and electrical plug to the sending unit and it's out. Then you get the joy of getting the ring off that holds the unit in, chisel and a hammer usually gets it off. And that's it.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2010
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From: South Jersey
some people take the bed off. but i would recommend dropping the tank. god only knows once you get in there you might find out you have to drop the tank anyway (find holes in the top of the tank like I did).
Anyway, the rear tank came out A LOT easier than the mid-ship tank. the mid-ship tank was a super turbo pain in the butt. removing the nuts was like that first turn every time I unscrewed it on every turn. some people get lucky and they break off, I didn't. I would recommend replacing the hardware regardless.
Trying to hold a wrench on the top is nearly impossible so I had to rig up a grade 8 bolt to hold the wrench up top from spinning. It worked but wasn't a job I would want to do again.
P.S. make sure the tank is fully drained before attempting this.
Anyway, the rear tank came out A LOT easier than the mid-ship tank. the mid-ship tank was a super turbo pain in the butt. removing the nuts was like that first turn every time I unscrewed it on every turn. some people get lucky and they break off, I didn't. I would recommend replacing the hardware regardless.
Trying to hold a wrench on the top is nearly impossible so I had to rig up a grade 8 bolt to hold the wrench up top from spinning. It worked but wasn't a job I would want to do again.
P.S. make sure the tank is fully drained before attempting this.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2003
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From: Too close to Houston
When you get everything out, you'll probably find the sending unit is good, but the float has gasoline sloshing around it it because it has sunk. New floats are still available from Ford for about $10, IIRC.
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Brusly, LA
Like Sport45 said, my float was filled with gas too.
I dropped my tank and replaced the whole sending unit. To me, it was worth replacing the whole thing rather than just the replacing just the float.
And dropping the tank isn't that big of a deal. Just remove as much fuel as you can before getting started. I used a car jack as a third hand to help hold the tank up while removing it and putting it back up.
I dropped my tank and replaced the whole sending unit. To me, it was worth replacing the whole thing rather than just the replacing just the float.
And dropping the tank isn't that big of a deal. Just remove as much fuel as you can before getting started. I used a car jack as a third hand to help hold the tank up while removing it and putting it back up.
Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2010
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Just a note...you really dont have to drop the fuel tank all the way off the truck. I just did my front tank sending unit and I just loosened the bolts up enough to where it would just sag down. That gave enough room to get the sending unit in and out. Another suggestion is to have new lock rings with you before you remove the sending unit, you can buy them at NAPA or Auto zone for cheap. I had to bust my lock rings out because they would not rotate at all. Good luck!!
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Virginia
If you want to test the system out, take the wire off the sending unit, and with the key in run, engine off, ground the wire going to the sending unit. The gas guage should swing full scale empty or full. Then take the wire off ground, and the gauge should swing full scale the opposite way. If this works, then the wiring and the gauge are good, and the problem is with the sending unit.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Richmond, VA
If you want to test the system out, take the wire off the sending unit, and with the key in run, engine off, ground the wire going to the sending unit. The gas guage should swing full scale empty or full. Then take the wire off ground, and the gauge should swing full scale the opposite way. If this works, then the wiring and the gauge are good, and the problem is with the sending unit.
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