96 Sploder project.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Rio Linda, Ca
96 Sploder project.
I just picked up a 96 sploder with a v8 and I am looking for some quick input to make her road worthy.
1st order of business is a new radiator. This one has a split along the side in the plastic. I have been looking online to order one up and all i have found have been single row cores. Is this stock or can I go with a 2 or more row.
Aside from a complete fluid change what else should I tackle right from the get go?
I plan on doing a full lube on it, brakes and anything else I run across as I go.
It has about 170 on it and of course no records
I'm open to any thoughts and opinions and a little history on what goes bad around when.
Thanks.
1st order of business is a new radiator. This one has a split along the side in the plastic. I have been looking online to order one up and all i have found have been single row cores. Is this stock or can I go with a 2 or more row.
Aside from a complete fluid change what else should I tackle right from the get go?
I plan on doing a full lube on it, brakes and anything else I run across as I go.
It has about 170 on it and of course no records
I'm open to any thoughts and opinions and a little history on what goes bad around when.
Thanks.
Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 238
Likes: 1
From: Horseheads NY
I doubt you will need anything other than the stock radiator. I have a 98 Mountaineer V8 AWD and pull a boat, and it never runs hot, even on a 90 degree day pulling the boat up a hill at 60 mph. I would change all fluids, rear end, transfer case, transmission service. But before you put allot of money into it I would just put in what it needs right now to be able to drive it. Then after you have driven it a few weeks, you will know what your dealing with and know if there are any other problems.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 763
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From: Rio Linda, Ca
So is the stock a single row or a 2 row?
Locally, they are 225, yet online suppliers are at least half that. It's something I can wain on for shipping for that kind of savings.
What are some of the common things to look out for in these. I've had my Excursion for about 10 years now and know when to look for what based on age and mileage.
Locally, they are 225, yet online suppliers are at least half that. It's something I can wain on for shipping for that kind of savings.
What are some of the common things to look out for in these. I've had my Excursion for about 10 years now and know when to look for what based on age and mileage.
Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 238
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From: Horseheads NY
I'm pretty sure it is, but I think the rows are 1 inch wide instead of two, 1/2" rows.
I have 172000 on my Mountaineer and the ony thing I have had the biggest problem with is front wheel bearings. They are expensive also. If you have a junk yard near you that you can pull your own parts cheap, I would look and see if you can find a couple to have on the shelf. New there about $180 and don't have any warranty. I bought one on e-bay because it was half the price. It didn't last a year. Buy cheap you get cheap I guess.
I have 172000 on my Mountaineer and the ony thing I have had the biggest problem with is front wheel bearings. They are expensive also. If you have a junk yard near you that you can pull your own parts cheap, I would look and see if you can find a couple to have on the shelf. New there about $180 and don't have any warranty. I bought one on e-bay because it was half the price. It didn't last a year. Buy cheap you get cheap I guess.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 763
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From: Rio Linda, Ca
Good tip on the bearings.
I will be spending the better half of the day at a junk yard real soon. The interior of the truck is damn near new condition, however, it was rear-ended in the left quarter panel. So I will be cutting out one and replacing it. It also has a dent on the front quarter panel and hood, so I will swap those out also. Good time to teach the boy how to do some welding body work and paint this summer.
I will be spending the better half of the day at a junk yard real soon. The interior of the truck is damn near new condition, however, it was rear-ended in the left quarter panel. So I will be cutting out one and replacing it. It also has a dent on the front quarter panel and hood, so I will swap those out also. Good time to teach the boy how to do some welding body work and paint this summer.
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Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 763
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From: Rio Linda, Ca
I haven't done it in awhile. Course now is different because I don't have to finish a project to get to and from work the next week in it. So the pace is totally different.
Plus if the boy gets into it, then maybe we will tackle on an older project or two out in the pasture
Plus if the boy gets into it, then maybe we will tackle on an older project or two out in the pasture
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Senior User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 238
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From: Horseheads NY
Something else to keep in mind while your working on anything in the front suspension or brakes. If your power steering pump reservoir is separate from the pump, don't turn the wheel unless the engine is running. If you turn it to much with the engine not running it puts air into the system. You will find out when you drive it. It will feel like a tire is about to fall off. It will shake and shimmy real bad. Thats because there is an air pocket in the rack now. Usually just turning the wheel a few time from lock to lock will get the bubble back out of it if it does that. I found this out when I first got my Mountaineer and did the brakes on it. I took it for a test drive and about 4 miles later it was shimmying so bad I thought I left a tire loose. Another time it did this to me it was 20 miles before it started to shimmy. It will scare the bejesues out of you when it does it thats for sure
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