95 Bronco EB won't start
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
95 Bronco EB won't start
Trying to help my grand dad here. He has a 95 EB Bronco with the 5.8L. Only has 120,000 miles on it. Over the past 3 weeks the truck randomly died twice on the highway (going a little over 60mph) and then restarted by itself and kicked back into go mode like nothing ever happened (just under 50mph normally). Tonight while idling in the driveway it died, and now it won't restart. It cranks, how ever long the key is held it'll sit there and crank. But it won't turn over. From what we can tell the fuel pump is working, but i'm 1,000 miles away so I can't tell if pressure was actually full.
Any ideas to start, I'm trying to save them from the nickle and diming. The truck over the past 2 years is starting to cost alot in little fixes.
Any ideas to start, I'm trying to save them from the nickle and diming. The truck over the past 2 years is starting to cost alot in little fixes.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
PULL FAULT CODES FIRST! Chasing things that might be the problem will just wastes time and money. Once you have the codes, troubleshooting is a pinpoint operation. If you need code translation/interpretation, post 'em here.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
Sorry for not updating, things have been rough lately to say the least. We got the tank dropped, replaced the pump and filter. That got rid of the low pressure issue and the truck seems to be more lively. Also got rid of the studder. The truck still dies however in travel, seems it has to be hot for it to do so. After traveling about 20 miles it just stopped running in the middle of the street. Coasted off to the side, let it sit and cool for about 15 minutes, and it starts right back up no problem. This has happened repeatedly. We need more ideas :P.
Haven't gotten it to throw any codes, no check engine light either. Ford couldn't get any codes, will try Autozone next time it dies near one.
I'm thinking..maybe vacuum hose? Something expanding with heat?
Haven't gotten it to throw any codes, no check engine light either. Ford couldn't get any codes, will try Autozone next time it dies near one.
I'm thinking..maybe vacuum hose? Something expanding with heat?
The Southernmost Mod
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 6,902
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From: Caracas, Venezuela
Have the injectors cleaned, and check for codes, you could have one of the temp related sensors giving a false read, wich could make the computer to shut down the engine in order to prevent over-heating, or your cooling system could actually have some issues (still, it's strange that the failure happens at such speeds if it's heat related, as at those speeds usually the engine works cooler, that's why i point at the injectors), check for leaks in the radiator and hoses in bad shape.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Fort Wayne, IN
Have the injectors cleaned, and check for codes, you could have one of the temp related sensors giving a false read, wich could make the computer to shut down the engine in order to prevent over-heating, or your cooling system could actually have some issues (still, it's strange that the failure happens at such speeds if it's heat related, as at those speeds usually the engine works cooler, that's why i point at the injectors), check for leaks in the radiator and hoses in bad shape.
Going to try codes. The injectors are all good, the dealership checked that as they tried to troubleshoot it for 3 days. Nothing came up so at that time they wouldn't do the fuel pump, so we did it ourselves.
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Cargo Master
Joined: May 2004
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Good Idea here. Distributor get warmed up and the hall effect goes kablooie due to magnetic field issues and heat.
Rebuild or replace Distributor.
Rebuild or replace Distributor.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
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From: Gateway to the West
Magnets are not affected by heat... that is WHY they are used in the PIP application. Not to mention the fact that a PIP is less expensive to replace than an entire distributor.
Your issue could still be thermal. Hard starting and dying at cooler temps are indicative of one of two thermal sensor issues that the EEC-IV system can potentially miss and not throw fault codes. If the ECT sensor "sticks" at a high temperature reading, the computer will "think" that the engine is warmer than it really is. Warm engines don't need as much fuel to run properly as cold ones. So, if the computer thinks the engine is warmer than it really is, it will lean out the fuel mixture before the engine is warm enough to run properly with the mixture so lean. The reason you won't necessarily get a fault code is that the temperature that the ECT sensor "sticks" at is WITHIN the normal operating range for the sensor that the computer is "expecting" to see. I have published a chart with resistance values at given temperatures for both the ECT and ACT sensors. I've included it again here.
Your issue could still be thermal. Hard starting and dying at cooler temps are indicative of one of two thermal sensor issues that the EEC-IV system can potentially miss and not throw fault codes. If the ECT sensor "sticks" at a high temperature reading, the computer will "think" that the engine is warmer than it really is. Warm engines don't need as much fuel to run properly as cold ones. So, if the computer thinks the engine is warmer than it really is, it will lean out the fuel mixture before the engine is warm enough to run properly with the mixture so lean. The reason you won't necessarily get a fault code is that the temperature that the ECT sensor "sticks" at is WITHIN the normal operating range for the sensor that the computer is "expecting" to see. I have published a chart with resistance values at given temperatures for both the ECT and ACT sensors. I've included it again here.
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