When I stop at a light or stop sign, I feel a small jolt when the trans downshifts into first gear. When I take off, the engine revs and then it goes into gear. It shifts just fine in all other gears and speeds.

I have no CEL.
I went to the trans shop and there are no codes stored.
According to them, this means all electrical components are working.
Makes sense to me, so moving on for now.

I did a pan drop using a motorcraft filter and motorcraft merc V.
The fluid level is correct. The cooler is flowing good.
No known visible problems.

I really feel like this is a simple cheap fix, but it seems that the only way to figure out whats wrong with it is to take it out, tear it down, identify the problem, fix the problem, put it back together, re-install and hope it works.
Taking it to a shop, hoping I chose the right one wisely, is cost more money than I have right now.

If anybody has an answer or advise, it would be greatly appreciated.

 

Have you had it flashed to affect the shifting? If you are running stock, I would suggest that you get it reflashed to factory specs for starters.

 

Thanks for the response, I appreciate it very much.

Let me add some more details. I've had this truck since 07. I bought it used with 23k. It has 85.5k now. I have had no problems until about 40k. I read the owners manual and it said to change fluid and filter at 30k. So I did and the problem went away. I changed again at 60k. At 80k, the problem occured again. I changed fluid and the problem went away. At 85k, the problem recurred, but this time it didn't correct it.

It made me think there was a problem with the fluid flow. So I disected the Chinese made autozone filter. I took the two halves apart, unfolded the filter paper and found metal shavings and a larger piece of metal about 1/4 by 1/4 sandwiched between the folded filter paper.

I first thought that the metal came from my trans, but discounted that notion because: 1. There's no way metal from my trans can get between the folded filter paper 2. If it had came from my trans it would seem to have blown up by now. 3. It was manufactured in China.

I decided to go to the dealer and buy an American made Motorcraft filter and Motorcraft Merc V. Costly, but I know what I have now.

When I changed it, I decided to pull the trans. cooler to see if was stopped up. It didn't seem to be, but it might have a partial blockage. I'm not sure how I can determine that it is flowing good with certainty.So at this point I'll assume that it is.

More details. It doesn't do it all the time. I drove it about 5 miles to work this morning and it shifted like it was brand new. I drove it about 10 miles after work , not getting on it or anything and no problems. I just wanted to get it up to operating temp. to see if that would cause it to do it's thing. nothing happened, shifted perfect.

My gut tells me it's not flowing good or some valve is sticking or something to that nature. From what I understand, the pump is either good or bad so I'm assuming (there's that word again) that it is good for now.

Ok. getting back to your advise. Can you elaborate about flashing? Is it reprogramming the shift points? Dealer only? recall? TSB? Have you had the same or similar problem and this corrected? Heard of this problem before and flashing fixed it?

Hey, thanks again for responding.

 

This is not going to be easy to swallow either way. Well, for me anyway because I hate letting anybody else put a wrench to my vehicles. I am leery of state sponsored safety and emissions inspections. But that is a different long winded debate.
Back on point; starting with "reprogramming the shift points” that is a software setting that can be adjusted in your on board computers that can be done with various tuners and superchips. If it has been done, then getting a re-flash to factory, recall, or TSP specs will be done at the dealer at a cost. If they are just corrupted (like software corruptions happen) then you might be able to have it done at a discounted cost.
The other option is to go to a good nationally recognized transmission shop that can run a full transmission diagnostic (sometimes done as part of an estimate at lower costs) checking valve body pressures along with line pressures and shift points to determine the shifting issues. They can also program your truck to Ford specifications.
Little pieces of metal in the filter would indicate a problem although it begs the question as to any metal in the bottom of the pan. Now you are looking at an internal failure of bands, clutches, snaprings, and etc. Transmission diag is the only place you find the answers.

 

I hear ya man. I have absolutely no trust in most mechanics.

I have no reason to believe that my truck has been supertuned in anyway. I think it is still at factory spec. I certainly have'nt had it re-tuned.

The other option to go to a "good" nationally recognized transmission shop that can run a full transmission diagnostic is a good idea. Can they do that without tearing down the trans? Can you recommend a "good" nationally recognized transmission shop that would do this? One that you can trust?

As far as the metal pieces in the filter, I found nothing in the pan. the metal was sandwiched BETWEEN the folded filter paper. Seems like it wouldn't work at all if it had that kind of damage.

Here's the Kicker.. I haven't had one problem with it in two days!!!
I swear it's possessed. It's got horns in there somewhere.

Something else I might mention: The weather has been quit a bit cooler the last couple of days. lower 90's as opposed to upper 90's low 100's.

I'm thinking it might be heat related.

Hey, again, Thank you for your advise.

 

Mine did your exact same thing they dropped the pan and the the magnet in there was completely coated in metal the filter was the same way I had 42k on the truck and ford covered it under the factory warranty they did however ask me to pay a $500 deductible which I was glad to pay. Now I have a new tranny with a 100k warranty on it. Apparently what happen was one of the bearings took a dump on me if I remember right and I think there was a tsp on the issue but I'm not sure. All this happened shortly after a trip from VA to CA. I hope this isn't your issue but it kinda sounds like it is. I hope this helps a little.

 

I have patronized AAMCO in the past and been satisfied with the results. Back then they hooked up their console to presure and return cooler lines (recirculated my fluid) along with a few ports on the tranny. This captured various pressures and temperatures while going through all gears manually. The brakes held fast during one phase and left to free wheel in another phase. They also monitored the vehicle's computer and vacuum line the enter time. What they were testing was beyond me. They got to rebuild the tranny in the end. The car ('88 Cougar) was totaled (rear ended) 12K miles latter never a tranny hickup after the rebuild.