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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:19 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Monsta
Now wouldn't THAT be nice.

Never had "learning mode" give drive-ability issues other than a rough idle for a minute or so. Nor should it cause any warning lights to flash or light up.



My question is, "How old is the battery?"

BTW, a current leak is a rather easy thing to track down. Has your battery ever been discharged due to this current leak the mechanic found? Has is ever been slow to start? (Slow starter speed) Ever needed a jump?
Battery i believe may be the original one, im not sure and it has done none of the above monsta. battery always checks out ok.
 

Last edited by code_red; Jul 27, 2010 at 10:37 PM. Reason: mis-spelling
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Code_Red, you didn't state if you have the gas engine or one of the two diesels available in 2003, but judging from the wording of your post, it's probably safe to assume (even though I hate to assume) you have the gas engine.

That being said, I'm thinking Urban might be on the right path.

Even though you say the converter was installed by pro's, check the wiring anyway.

Also, how did you eliminate the alternator from being the problem? I've read where guys chased electrical problems and the alternator tested fine, but it turned out being the problem all along.

Stewart
Advanced Auto parts has checked it 2 times now for me. And i will be checking the converter wiring soon. Oh by the way your correct its the gas motor.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:35 PM
  #18  
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OK here is the verdict after 2 days Urban.

Thanks to all for the replys, all good points here *yes the alternator has been checked out ok now 2 times). ANYWAYS here is what i got for the last 2 days of driving it: No ABS Light today nor gauges acting eractically,However the battery light did come on and off as usual and it did stumble (the motor that is) once(while in drive at a normal speed,20 to 40 mph range). I also noticed something else. when the ex is in park and idle, when i press in on the gas really quickly it hesitates at 1st(stumbles just a little bit ) and the abs light comes on for a sec , then goes off when the idle goes back down. battery light remains on during the entire test. My F 150 did this simliar thing once before and the alternator was going out , however unlike the ex the F150's diagnose of the alternator proved it to be the problem. I really hate trying to trace down electrical issues. I will hang in there with it though. When i did the test at advanced they told me i had a like 6.5 mili (beleive thats the right word for super small) amp leak somewhere in the truck. However they were not able to tell me where it was.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:38 PM
  #19  
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If that is your original alternator, at 89K miles, it is bound to fail. My V10 02 Ex is on (as far as I know) on its 3rd alternator at 114K miles. Although I bought it used and being the 3rd owner, when I pulled the alternator, it was Autolite, not Motorcraft.

I had tested my alternator when I had my battery light problem and it tested fine. From this forum, someone told me to change the alternator and it fixed the problem.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:43 PM
  #20  
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When your battery light comes on, your engine is running on battery power to run your COPs. The voltage is lower than alt. power, hence, the hesitation. Then, your RPMs go up when your battery light goes off and you're back on alt. power.

I picked up my rebuilt alternator for $100 ($50 core) from a shop locally here that just rebuilds alternators and starters. I installed it myself. Took maybe half hour. Piece of cake.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:45 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by jh818
If that is your original alternator, at 89K miles, it is bound to fail. My V10 02 Ex is on (as far as I know) on its 3rd alternator at 114K miles. Although I bought it used and being the 3rd owner, when I pulled the alternator, it was Autolite, not Motorcraft.

I had tested my alternator when I had my battery light problem and it tested fine. From this forum, someone told me to change the alternator and it fixed the problem.
Im begining to think the same thing . I need to find out if it is an autolite alt or a motorcraft. I have learned hard lessons on not using motorcraft parts. I bought the truck back in 2007 with 63,000 miles( about that) on it. I have not changed anything electrical at all on it. Im not electrical goru and dont know how to properly chekc an alt, yet alone have the tools to do it. I would really hate to go out and buy an alt to find out that it was not the problem. Oh the alt wire connections check out ok also.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by jh818
When your battery light comes on, your engine is running on battery power to run your COPs. The voltage is lower than alt. power, hence, the hesitation. Then, your RPMs go up when your battery light goes off and you're back on alt. power.

I picked up my rebuilt alternator for $100 ($50 core) from a shop locally here that just rebuilds alternators and starters. I installed it myself. Took maybe half hour. Piece of cake.

I was kinda thinking that myself but wasnt for sure. it does make sense. It probably wouldnt hurt to take the truck to a different place to see what readout they give on it, so far I have only been to advanced and auto zone.Im sure there is some sort of proper way to correctly check these alts or maybe not? maybe there way is as good as it gets?
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by VaSheriff
The clue here is "put it in drive".

You have worn and exposed wires in the steering column most likely. They touch metal and short out when you move the transmission lever to put it in gear. It's happening to Excursions nationwide. I would call it a manufacturing defect. But Ford calls it "wear and tear".
Thanks. i will give this a look over also.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 09:38 AM
  #24  
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Ford Excursion 200 Amp High Output Alternator Diesel 03 04 05 8306 from DB electrical Price: $209.95

I ordered a new alternator 200 amp output and I’m taking my batteries over to Wal-Mart and have them cycle-test them. It takes like 40 minutes per battery but it checks if they still take and hold a charge. If not…..they will replace them as they are only 16-months old.

I’m also going to replace the Serpentine belt. The new alternator will ship today and if I get it by the weekend I’ll install it and let you know my results.

Dakrri

I'll also do a total reset when the batteries are out.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 09:48 AM
  #25  
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WOW I'm looking at the 6.0 diesel.....any idea how I can get that plastic shroud off the cooling fan? It sure looks like it would make changing the alternator and serp-belt easier. I don't want to break the shroud

Thanks

Dakrri
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 05:37 PM
  #26  
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Yeah Dakrri , let me know how the 200 amp works out for ya, not for sure if it will work on mine since its a gas v8. As for the fan shroud I have yet to voyage into mine however on the f150 it does make it easier to change things out with it dropped. Good luck with that.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 07:25 PM
  #27  
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Hi all,

I drove home tonight (30 miles) from work and I lost all dash gauges. So I stop at Wal-Mart and they replaced both batteries under warranty. Everything work when I left but the battery dash light was still on. So now I’ll wait on the alternator which was shipped today.

I also stopped and bought a Serpentine belt at O’Rielly’s so I’ll replace that too when I do the alternator. I’ll keep you all posted.

I could not find the battery saver relay/fuse....do they have that relay on diesels?? If so...where is it located.

Later

dakrri

PS the new batteries have a 3-year full replacement warranty.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2010 | 02:01 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Dakrri
WOW I'm looking at the 6.0 diesel.....any idea how I can get that plastic shroud off the cooling fan? It sure looks like it would make changing the alternator and serp-belt easier. I don't want to break the shroud

Thanks

Dakrri
That shroud is a nightmare by the way.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #29  
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Ok....so I got the alternator 200 amp and the (2) new free warrantied batteries at Wal-Mart and that stuff was very easy to install. By the way, my new batteries have a 3-year replacement warranty. I bought the Alternator over the internet from DB Electric and it was here in 3-days.

Starters, Alternators and more for Cars, Trucks, Tractors and ATVs


The new alternator has a smaller pulley. On the website it says that it will turn more RPMs at idle speed thus charging the batteries better. Which is good because in the winter I let it idle in the parking lots if I’m out for coffee/breakfast, or at a store, etc. This did not make a difference as far as the stock serpentine belt, the “tensioner” pulleys made it a tight.

Then I got the bright idea to change the Serpentine belt as long as I was in there.....MAN what a pain the butt that was. Hours later....I’m done.


Long story short the battery light is not lit and all other electrical function are working great. I’ll update in a few weeks and let everyone know if it's still all-ok.
 
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Old Jul 31, 2010 | 01:07 PM
  #30  
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Code Red just a thought. If you don't want to spend alot of money on a new alternator check you local salvage yards. I have replaced several alternators on 5.4L Expeditions this way. My local salvage yard charges $40-75 bucks for a used alternator with a 90 day warranty. Good luck, John
 
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