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Ok, here is the situation...I have the opportunity to purchase a 64 short bed custom cab for an extremely low price, almost free...It needs new floorpans, possibly new cab mounts, has a 240, but doesn't run and just the typical dents pulled, and minor rust addressed, along with a fresh coat of paint and cosmetic work to the interior.
I currently have a 66 long bed, standard cab that runs but needs lots of body work, mostly an entire new cab floor, floor pans, front cab mounts, etc. It also needed a radiator support (already bought), new fenders (bought yesterday), and has a new to me bed sitting on it... The question is, do I build a 66 or a 64? The easy answer would be both, but finances and the wife say otherwise...I realize the twin I-Beam suspension on the 66 trumps the solid front axle on the 64, but bodywork wise, the 64 is far and away better...
Or, buy the '64 also and use parts from both in the rebuild. Then, when someone asks "What year is it?" You can say, "On the average, it's a '65"
Seriously, they both sound like they need everything, so buy the '64 and only restore one. Just pick out which one has the best parts after you have them apart and go that way.
I own a 64 and find parts sourcing to be a bit harder than the later trucks would have.
I would go with the 66.
Two other things,
1)My 64 rides great. The twin I beam is alot better but for a solid axle with leafs I am amazed atthe quality of the ride.
2)240s were not around in 64 trucks. I think you mean 223.
Guys I don't see much here to make one good truck. The 64 has different chassis mounts, plus it is a short bed.
If the wife is in the mix, I would pass and keep looking for a 65-66 donor for body parts. If you take your time this will come together for you. Jumping every time something comes along you will start a junk(ey) yard and have the wife on your ***.
I'd build neither. Rusty trucks are a waste of time and money. But, given only those two choices, I'd pick whichever one is less rotted.
I once did this type of thing, drug home every pathetic carcass with the idea I could restore it back to health. The reality is it takes hundreds more hours and thousands more dollars to fix a rotten vehicle vs just paying more for a good example up front. Only those who have been through a rusty mistake seem to learn this though.
Ok, here is the situation...I have the opportunity to purchase a 64 short bed custom cab for an extremely low price, almost free.
It needs new floorpans, possibly new cab mounts, has a 240, but doesn't run and just the typical dents pulled, and minor rust addressed, along with a fresh coat of paint and cosmetic work to the interior.
Is it a 1964? 240 I-6 introduced in 1965, has the intake/exhaust manifold on the right (passenger) side.
1961/64's have a 223 (or 262) I-6, the intake/exhaust manifold is on the left (drivers) side.
They may look the same, but looks can be deceiving. Besides the engines, solid front axle, 1961/64 F100/250 2WD's have multiple differences from like 1965/66's.
The cab is different, has a step when you open the doors, the wheelbases are different.
Disc brakes and P/S cannot be bolted on from the later trucks that have these features, which means you have to buy expensive aftermarket kits to install them.
Swapping engines to something newer is a labor intensive PITA, since the frames, mounts and everything else is 1961/64 only.
Hey Bill, in '64 did they change from straight axle to twin I beam in mid-year? I remember the Slick my ol' man bought and he actually looked for(or maybe had the dealer do a dealer trade for)a straight axle truck because the I beams were too "new fangled" for him.
He then proceeded to mount a big propane tank across the front of the bed and convert the truck to dual fuel...go figure.
Hey Bill, in '64 did they change from straight axle to twin I beam in mid-year? I remember the Slick my ol' man bought and he actually looked for(or maybe had the dealer do a dealer trade for)a straight axle truck because the I beams were too "new fangled" for him.
He then proceeded to mount a big propane tank across the front of the bed and convert the truck to dual fuel...go figure.
Production of 1965's began in August 1964 @ serial number 580,001.
F350 and larger trucks do not have Twin-I-Beam suspension, neither do 4WD's.
I'd build neither. Rusty trucks are a waste of time and money. But, given only those two choices, I'd pick whichever one is less rotted.
I once did this type of thing, drug home every pathetic carcass with the idea I could restore it back to health. The reality is it takes hundreds more hours and thousands more dollars to fix a rotten vehicle vs just paying more for a good example up front. Only those who have been through a rusty mistake seem to learn this though.
Thanks for the guidance...This newbie decided after getting additional info on the 64, like the fact that there were trees growing through the floor of the bed and cab, as well as lots of bondo, and a rodent infestation, that I am better off passing on this truck and welding in new panels into mine...Afterall, it's just a floor and cab mounts, how hard could it be????
Yup, those phrases rank right up there with "while I'm in there".
I think the only words that have ever cost men more money than those three phrases are "I do".
Yup, those phrases rank right up there with "while I'm in there".
I think the only words that have ever cost men more money than those three phrases are "I do".