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Valve Cover Gaskets

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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 06:25 PM
  #1  
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Valve Cover Gaskets

I am about to R&R the valve covers on the 6.9. Any other normal leak sights? Or 6.9/7.3 IDI tips?

I spill most of the oil when A) the oil is at the full mark B) at high RPM like on the highway (no OD ).

I plan on spraying the engine down with oven cleaner before pulling the covers.
 
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Old Jul 24, 2010 | 06:37 PM
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1; don't spray down a hot running engine or you can kill the injector pump. Even a hot engine thats resting is still pushing it.

2; get rubber gaskets, not cork

3; when are you checking your engine oil level?

10 minutes after a hot shut down is the ideal time since the dipstick is calibrated to a hot engine (with that amount of oil, it does make a difference).

filling up to the top of the operating range isn't needed either and often high oil consumption on older IDIs can be reduced significantly by running at, or slightly below the half way mark (again, thats on a hot engine).
 
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Old Jul 25, 2010 | 08:44 AM
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Torque spec for gaskets is 6 ftlbs twice around....... I would do it again after running in about a week. I used Felpro......... very happy.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 01:20 AM
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Thanks. I am going to use the rubber Felpros.

I quit topping off the oil a long time ago. The last quart always went faster than the rest. I was hoping that replacing the VC gaskets would stop that problem. I worry about long highway trips and loosing a lot of oil on the way.

I did not think about the injector pump, but I never spray down a hot engine anyway. Exhaust manifolds can crack.
 
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Old Jul 26, 2010 | 01:59 AM
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only if its cold water. if you use a hot pressure washer you dont have any risk. hell, the water from those are hotter then your engine is.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 02:03 PM
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Garden hose and oven cleaner is all I'm using. It looks like I will need to remove the fuel filter to clear the cover. Other than that, it looks straight forward. Unless I over looked something.
 
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Old Jul 27, 2010 | 02:56 PM
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yes, you gotta push the bracket that holds the filter housing to get one bolt. other then that, its cake.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 06:38 AM
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Hi Guys,
I need to replace them on my 1988 7.3 f250, any tips for this?
I'm not sure how much stuff I will need to remove.
Dan
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 10:29 AM
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Originally Posted by DanCampbell
Hi Guys,
I need to replace them on my 1988 7.3 f250, any tips for this?
I'm not sure how much stuff I will need to remove.
Dan
You don't really need to remove much to gain access to the valve covers on these engines. On the drivers side you will have the air intake duct. On the passenger side there is the main engine connector connector that you can unplug and the dipstick tube bracket that will need to be removed.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 11:52 AM
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When I first bought my 89 F-350 7.3 IDI (5 or 6 years ago). It leaked oil bad! Before replacing any gaskets, someone on this forum suggested that I clean the CDR (tuna can) valve behind the air cleaner. I did that and still have not replaced any gaskets! It made a HUGE difference.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 12:05 PM
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Hello,
What is the CDR?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 12:09 PM
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Crankcase Depression Regulator or something like that? It is actually shaped like a tuna can. Do a search on the proper cleaning & testing procedure. It was good advice that someone gave me, it worked, and it's worth passing on!
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 12:16 PM
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Thank you,
I'm glad I posted this question.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 01:58 PM
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From: Troy MT
if its clogged and builds up too much crankcase pressure, you will blow every oil seal in the engine lol. not much fun.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 04:21 PM
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BTW, welcome to the forum, Dan.
 
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