Turn Signals Stopped Working??
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Chicagoland Metro area
Turn Signals Stopped Working??
I had a few electrical problems last weekend with the '68 F250. My headlights went out. Put a new dimmer switch in, and I think that will cure that. My turn signals also stopped working. I put a new flasher in, and that didn't solve it.
Just curious if any of you guys have had turn signal problems, and what the solution turned out to be. I don't seem to be getting power to the flasher unit itself. Just thought I would throw it out there to see if you guys knew where to look. The fuse that supplies power to the turn signals is good.
Thanks!
Dave
Just curious if any of you guys have had turn signal problems, and what the solution turned out to be. I don't seem to be getting power to the flasher unit itself. Just thought I would throw it out there to see if you guys knew where to look. The fuse that supplies power to the turn signals is good.
Thanks!
Dave
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 198
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From: Burbank, CA
We've had a couple of guys on here recently who've had problems with turn signals and flashers, and after tracing it all out, the fault was with the Turn Signal Switch or the wiring going right up to it. I suspect that the leg of harness that runs up the column to the switch often gets out of position and yanked on. If you've already checked the fuse and flasher, then the TSS and column harness are the next likely culprit.
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Senior User
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From: Chicagoland Metro area
I just took the steering wheel off a little while ago. The switch looks good, but, that doesn't mean it may not be broken. I put my tester light on all the turn signal switch contacts, and no power to any of them. That doesn't seem right. Seems like there should be electricity going to one or more of the contacts for the signals to operate. Even the little horn contact in the steering wheel hub has power to it.
Before I buy a new TSS, I am going to keep looking to see if I can find a ground issue, or a wire harness issue as you indicate.
Before I buy a new TSS, I am going to keep looking to see if I can find a ground issue, or a wire harness issue as you indicate.
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Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Las Vegas
Dave,
Try testing at the multi-connector(s) near the bottom of the steering column. Disconnect it, turn the ignition switch on and put your test light on each pin and see what you get. You should get power to at least one if not more pins. If you do have to replace the switch, I suggest that you dismantle the old one to observe how it functions. VERY INFORMATIVE/ENLIGHTENING! Bear in mind that not all replacement switch color codes match up to OEM and you may need to hook it up/test one wire at a time. You can make/get a tool to remove the pins from the multi-connector so that you can re-use the body of it.
HTH,
Gene
Try testing at the multi-connector(s) near the bottom of the steering column. Disconnect it, turn the ignition switch on and put your test light on each pin and see what you get. You should get power to at least one if not more pins. If you do have to replace the switch, I suggest that you dismantle the old one to observe how it functions. VERY INFORMATIVE/ENLIGHTENING! Bear in mind that not all replacement switch color codes match up to OEM and you may need to hook it up/test one wire at a time. You can make/get a tool to remove the pins from the multi-connector so that you can re-use the body of it.
HTH,
Gene
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Senior User
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From: Chicagoland Metro area
Thanks for the advice Gene. I disconnected the connector at the base as you suggested, turned the key on and put my tester light to each of the pins. No power.
I am now starting to think it may be my ignition switch. I have put a used one on, and it has been giving me trouble lately. Not starting when I really need it to start (boat ramp). I have to play with the wires to finally get it to make contact and start. So, maybe one of the wires that feeds the turn signals has lost contact and isn't feeding power to the system. Don't know. Thats all I can think it may be at this point. The search continues
I am now starting to think it may be my ignition switch. I have put a used one on, and it has been giving me trouble lately. Not starting when I really need it to start (boat ramp). I have to play with the wires to finally get it to make contact and start. So, maybe one of the wires that feeds the turn signals has lost contact and isn't feeding power to the system. Don't know. Thats all I can think it may be at this point. The search continues
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Problem solved. It turned out to be a loose fuse box connection. It was throwing me off as there was power on that fuse, but, apparently the fuse wasn't making full contact all the time. Sanded the contact fuse holder and made sure the connection was tight, and they work! I knew I wasn't getting power to them and thats what it was.
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Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
In 1971, Ford came out with a replacement ignition switch kit (D1AZ11572C-Motorcraft SW1074) / Still available from Ford.
Since there was no mandatory recalls back then, it was up to the dealers to notify the customers, which means not all of these defective switches were replaced.
The replacement switch kit comes with pigtailed wires/plug.
It plugs into the back of the new switch, then the wire harness is spliced to the pigtailed wires.
If the switch you have DOES NOT have this pigtailed wire/plug, it is the original!
NOTE: The D1AZ switch was only used to replace the orignal ignition switch (C8AZ11572A). It will not be found in 1971 or later trucks, as they used a different switch.
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From: Chicagoland Metro area
Thanks for the info on the replacement switch NumberDummy. Can I buy that switch at any Ford dealership? I have been wanting to get a new switch and be done with the intermittent starting issues.
Dave
Dave
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Replaces the defective C8AZ11572A ignition switch found in 1968/69 Passenger Cars and 1968/70 F100/750's.
MSRP: $76.40 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $41.26.
Parts Guy Ed = Ed Olson, parts manager of Horizon Ford in Seattle WA
You can buy it at any FoMoCo dealer, but I doubt you'll get it for that discounted price.
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From: Chicagoland Metro area
NumberDummy....I contacted partsguyed.com to place an order for the switch, and I wanted to verify that the switch came with the rear plug with pigtail wires. They indicated that only the switch itself was included, and not the plug/wires. Does that sound correct to you?
I am hesitant to buy it without the plug/wires as I am not sure my plug would fit in it, and I think my plug/wires may be part if not the whole problem. Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks!
Dave
I am hesitant to buy it without the plug/wires as I am not sure my plug would fit in it, and I think my plug/wires may be part if not the whole problem. Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks!
Dave
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
Likes: 785
From: Simi Valley, CA
NumberDummy....I contacted partsguyed.com to place an order for the switch, and I wanted to verify that the switch came with the rear plug with pigtail wires.
They indicated that only the switch itself was included, and not the plug/wires.
Does that sound correct to you?
They indicated that only the switch itself was included, and not the plug/wires.
Does that sound correct to you?
Since Ed does not have the switch in stock (I have access to the Ford dealer parts locator, so I know this is correct), he doesn't know what comes with the switch.
Ed can order the switch and have it in a coupla hours since the Seattle parts depot has two and is 14 miles away.
I'll give Ed a call, and rattle his brain.
Edit: I called, found out Ed's on vacation. One a the partsguys is gonna order the switch, then I'm calling him back later today.
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