Hello to all. New to this site. I have looked all over the internet for an inexpensive way to correct the steering problems on my 1978 F250. It has a dana 44 in the front. Approx. 12 inches of lift. I would love to try some sort of crossover steering setup but do not want to spend a fortune on stuff i do not need. The current steering setup is a joke and was on the truck when i acquired it. Lets just say big piece of i beam between tie-rod steering end and steering arm on axle. Its very ugly and finally gave up the ghost a few days age. I am open to all suggestions especially the homemade kind. I read about machining the passenger knuckle and all that. Could be my only option but if there is someone with words of advice or suggestions I am willing to listen. Truck looks cool. Runs great. Kids love it. Steers terrible(well it did). Help?

 

what size tires? did you install the lift, or buy it that way? how hammered has it been? (by you and the PO) got any pics?

depending on how much it's been hammered on you probably need to do a full rebuild of the frontend, plus running huge tires (assumed with the 12'' lift) is never easy on frontends and their parts

 

previous owner homemade the lift. the tires are 44s. it does need a full front end rebuild most likely. im not a premium member so i cant post pics on here. i thought maybe there would be a way of mixing 2wd and 4wd parts from the wrecking yard in order to come up with some sort of homemade crossover steering.

 

You need not be a premium member to post pics. Do an FTE search and follow the instructions. Its' super-easy once you know how.

I-beam? WTF? Personally, I'm sick and tired of hacks fabbing up "systems" just to get the look of a big truck. It's usually unsafe and puts you and others around you (on or off the road) in danger. If you're gonna do it, please do it right with some planning and forethought. Okay, I'll get off my soap box now....

Jeff's Bronco Graveyard offers a bullet proof steering system consisting of thick DOM tubing and HD rod ends. It's not a high steer but it's stronger than stock considering your 12-inch lift and 44s. An alternative is to building your own using components from Ballistic Fabrication. They've got D44 and D60 high steer arms, tubing, bungs, and bulletproof rod ends.

 

i have a bronco graveyard book and have noticed the kit in it. I may call and talk to them about exactly what akk that kit consists of.

 

if the pics dont work here is a link to them Pictures by cewofford - Photobucket

 

looks nice man! (all you have to do is copy the [IMG] link on your photobucket)

 

but to be honest, you'll always have some sort of steering problem on something like this, when you have this much tire/lift it will never act like it should

 

dear god I see 1 foot lift blocks.... I hope you don't drive this on streets?

 

look closer,the FRONT has 12" lift blocks too!!! I would NOT be driving that thing with kids in it! it is just a accident waistng to happen. It looks good but is built completely wrong. you need to invest in new springs for the front at least.Not trying to be a d&$# head or any thing,justtrying to make sure you or some one else does not get hurt or worse.

 

I was concerned with the blocks in the front also. I have removed them along with the monoleafs and put leaf from the rear of a 89 one ton Ford. They fit well. Just haven't updated my pics. I added a front bumper also. Plan on trailing arms for the rear. There are no longer blocks in the front. I realize steering will be crappy but right now I have none.

 

Wrong!

I'm the guy you need to talk to on this one.
My truck runs 44 swampers at highway speeds with no concerns and I'm able to let go of wheel and it will track very straight. For starters you NEED crossover steering. Anything with that big a lift with the steering arm on driver side will either create way to steep an angle on dragling or if modified with parts under steering arm to raise up will create way too much force and leverage on now longer bolts and could break but in my experience constantly loosen the bolts. It plain sucks.
Now what I've done is started with a 73-79 ford 2WD powersteering box that has been mounted on the inside of frame rail by box plating it in and welding it with the 3 holes to bolt up box. I also drill out holes to accept 1/2 bolts from the 7/16 ones but that's if you are very hard on it like me offroad other wise you can get away without that but I'd reccomend it. The nice thing about this box is it's strong, taller in length(nice because it will lessen the angle of draglink) but also has very good turning radius.
Next your probably gonna wanna scrap the d44. It's a waste of $ to invest into and honestly you can't even use your truck as 4x4 cause it WILL break. The only axle choice is a 78/79 kingpin 60 front for strength and kingpins fir crossover. They go for good $ but it's so worth it cause otherwise your truck is sketchy and just for show. You'll wanna do a Saginaw pump upgrade as well found in alot of econolibe vans. Build a custom bracket it's worth it. I took my steering to the next level and run hydro assist with a 1.5 bore ram off the diff cover. I had to tap lines into the box and make it work from no other Internet info but after done it gives extremely good turning power even on dry cement I can turn lock to lock no problems but one other major benefit is that it acts like a steering stabilizer and locks the tires straight awesome!!
As for suspension basically you could get rid of some rear block with an added shacke flip then just run new pro comp superduty 6.5" springs they are cheap around 300$ all you gotta do is dremel the front spring hager hole a tiny but bigger fir the larger bolt

 

that is some great information. and thats why i'm here. your truck sounds awesome and expensive. How much money would you say you have invested. I only have about $800 in mine so far. all the suspension came from the previous owner jacked up. I am slowly bringing it closer to safe. I would love to have a D60 with 5:13s in front and rear. Unfortunately there is not much extra money layin around here. Your superduty spring idea is really sweet and will be put into future plans. maybe i can find one wrecked. Have a wreckin yard about an hour away that picks up all kinds of late model trucks. Especially lifted ones. Have to keep an eye out for them. I have fabricated a simple crossover steering setup and will be test running it tomorrow. If it works great, if not i have zero money in it and about 4 hours worth of time. let you know what happens.

 

That's the ONLY way to go if you're running 44's if you want to actually "use" this truck as a truck and not be relegated to mall crawler status.

 

Don't bother with a Dana 60 in the rear they have small 30 spline inner axles. Find a single wheel Dana 70 or chev 14 bolt. I prefer the 70 but 14 bolts are a common upgrade with benifits of a pinion support bearing and cheap lockers.
As for how much do I have invested?? I'd just say LOTS! I've wasted time and money with Dana 44s and crap steering before so that's why I say save your time and $ cuase it will never work the way you want it to unless you have a d60 up front. Again you need the 78/79 one as it has the proper pot offset for this years frame with disc brakes and kingpins all other later years don't work unless you out board your front springs from being under frame to outside of frame which looks like crap in my opinion and I don't think would pass a road inspection. You'll probably wanna upgrade brakes as well with 4 wheele discs. Easy upgrade with some caliper brackets and rotors and calipers from a 78 chev 3/4 ton pickup cheap from the parts store. I would highly reccomend going with hydroboost brakes too! I got mine fro
a wrecked 99 f350 And mounted it to firewall to bolt to my original pedal . You will have unbelievable better stopping power to the point where at even high speeds you can easily lock up your rear 44 s and skid. To fix that you have to plumb an adjustable proportioning valve in the rear line and dial down the pressure until it has a good front rear bias and the rears are border line wanting to lock up. Out wheeling it's awesome as you can pin point creep down steep decents. Brakes and steering are kinda important that's why these big trucks get a bad rep as so often they are hacked!!! For a e brake you could go with 78 caddilac e brake style calipers but I heard and read on this one that it is hard to keep in adjustment to hold very well as a e brake. They aren't really too cheap either with a big core charge too. I use a swagelok ball valve line lock on the rear brakes which works perfect as it will hold on any hill and can be left on unlike an electric line lock. B-42f2 is the part#. you can actually be coasting down a hill push half brake pressure, engage it and walk beside your truck and it will coast to a stop. I like it wheeling so I can engage it put my twin stick t case in front wheel drive only , turn tires in one direction and turn on a dime driving around a corner pivoting off back brakes.