Mountain Towing Question

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Jul 22, 2010 | 11:30 PM

#16

Ponyboychris

Lead Driver

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 6,708

Likes: 5

From: Kiowa CO

Quote:

Originally Posted by bama29fan

heres the video

YouTube - Showing a braking technique

That's driving on I-70 through the Eisenhower tunnel - probably one of the steepest climbs and decents in the country. Not all mountain passes are as high as that one. It will give your brakes a workout but not as scary as he makes it. Plus, he drives a Dodge...

Jul 23, 2010 | 12:04 AM

#17

schlepprock250

Cargo Master

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 2,975

Likes: 19

From: Archdale,N.C.

I've been driving a big truck for over 18 years,you DO NOT want to ride your brakes all the way down a long grade.What they're saying is light steady pressure is better than short/quick/hard stabs(get going too fast...hard jab to slow back down...repeat),don't do this,use light steady pressure more to keep your speed in check,rather than have to slow from going too fast.I've run Black Mtn,cabbage,grapevine,and a lot of others that i just can't remember right now.Just my.02 worth..

Jul 23, 2010 | 12:17 AM

#18

itsjustdan26

Elder User

Joined: Sep 2009

Posts: 628

Likes: 0

From: Parker, Colorado

How about.......If you think your goin to over heat or are over heating your brakes, just pull over and let it sit for a bit at a scenic overlook or something. You will smell your brakes getting hot. Maybe like the man above said, click off the O/D and see how that does you...Or...Drop it into a lower gear for a lil bit and let the engine and trans do the work. Just go down the hill as you feel comfortable. Stop every couple of miles and hang out. Get some sever duty brake pads to make sure they are in working order.

Jul 23, 2010 | 08:18 AM

#19

bigtexan99

Laughing Gas

Joined: Nov 2004

Posts: 790

Likes: 35

From: Austin

Here's what I do.

On the way down, control you speed. Do not let your speed creep up as it is exponentially harder to stop the rig at 60mph as it is as 45mph.

When I crest a hill, I'm doing 30mph max. I then never let the rig get faster than 45mph on the way down. I also put the tranny in 2 and take the overdrive off.

Once the rig hits 45, I brake and slow to 30, then let the brakes off. Repeat till you get to bottom of hill.

Works for me. I'm assuming you have a tranny temp gauge? If it overheats, pull over, don't turn the engine off - leave the truck running in park, and open the hood until it cools off.

And don't worry about slowing traffic, or having a train behind you. Your safety is more important than an impatient stranger behind you.

Jul 23, 2010 | 09:25 AM

#20

hammer65

Posting Guru

Joined: Jul 2008

Posts: 1,302

Likes: 1

From: Morehead, Ky.

I live in Eastern Ky, and there are very very few Interstate Hills that you should worry about. I just turn off the O/D, then use the brakes as needed. All Interstates in E. Ky are less than 6% grade. Jellico Mountain in Jellico Tn. Might get to 6% for a short time. I40 East of Knoxville may have a few steep grades,but non I remember being a bother.
We just did I70 west of Denver, 6% down for miiiiiiles, without any worries. Get in the right lane, slow down and feel your way. You will get used to it and be just fine. Just my .02 Jim

Jul 23, 2010 | 11:12 AM

#21

Mas360

Freshman User

Joined: Apr 2010

Posts: 49

Likes: 0

Quote:

Originally Posted by bama29fan

Yep...sure did. i take you have read the post also

I am not sure he was right even though he had a lot of experience. I'd think continuously applying brake would quickly raise temperature whereas on-and-off would offer a little time in between to cool off?

Best is to pull over and let it rest and cool down when I deem brake is overworked.

Jul 23, 2010 | 11:26 AM

#22

bama29fan

Posting Guru

Joined: Feb 2010

Posts: 1,411

Likes: 1

From: Opelika, AL

just to pass some info on...not ford related but Dexter Axle camper related.

I spoke with a Dexter engineer on operating temps for the hubs and drum.

Hub temp measured behind the grease cap (on the hub) 140-175*F would be considered normal but could go as high as 200*F under more severe situations. I have read and heard (not from dexter) of people saying that measuring the temp on the rim near the lug nuts the temps should be around 120....which is probably about right if normal is 150'ish in the center (hub) area.

Normal Drum temp (measured on the back side of the Drum) would be 200-400 but could go as high as 600 under more severe braking.

anyway...maybe this will help someone monitor their stuff before it becomes a problem.

Jul 24, 2010 | 12:09 AM

#23

greedy737

Elder User

Joined: Sep 2007

Posts: 895

Likes: 0

From: Lenhartsville PA

Now this is where I come in never ever stab your brake's or you won't have the brake's to stop if need be! Light pressure on the brake's, keep your speed down no problems. The harder you push the more heat you get. The guy in the video is right, steady pressure all the way down the grade. If you do run in to problem's doing it this way, your brake's are shot or glazed before hand.