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I don't think many of us have any idea how much air it takes to operate your latch. I got a 12v air pump off a Lincoln or Caddy with air assist shocks at the boneyard for $25. It will inflate tires, not fast, but it puts out enough pressure to keep a reservoir charged at 40 - 50 psi. The engine driven compressors seem like total overkill, but I really have no idea how much air the latch needs. How about a picture? Is it an air cylinder?
Ill have to get a picture later, but it is an air cylinder, but it is not very big. I am running 6 v though so that pump will not do it unless i buy one of those inverters which run 100 bucks and take a lot of current.
You need a fair amount of pressure and volume to move that, but unless you are opening and closing it often, a small compressor with a 5-gallon reservoir should do the trick. One driven off the PTO would work, like I think Wayne said, you won't need to run it all the time. If you were 12v you'd have more options.
I was thinking about just running off the pto, because if i get a pump and then get a 5 gallon tank and run the pto long enough to fill the tank and make sure it does not leak it will be fine. I do not plan on using the truck every day, so that was my plan.
Another idea: 6V electric motor driving an A/C compressor. Should be more straightforward to put together than coming up with brackets & pulleys to mount an A/C compressor on the engine. Maybe a 12V starter motor would work, and last better. A brief google suggests that winch motors are a good choice for driving compressors, since they're designed for higher duty cycle than starter motors.
For a dump truck, the PTO driven route would probably be great, as you're usually standing still while dumping. Does your trans already have a PTO unit? Some of the older ones are getting hard to find.
Of course the best solution would really be to convert the truck from 6v positive ground to 12v negative ground and use an electric pump. It might sound like a lot of work, but it's not. You'd need a 12v gennie (or Alt), 12v coil, 12v starter & solenoid, voltage reducer at the dash and new light bulbs. It'll make life easier down the road. If you use a '56 or later gennie and your battery is still under the floor, it'll even still look stock !!
Also, I might suggest adding a v-belt pulley to the driveshaft flanges at the trans (assuming it has trans mounted park brake). All the "new" stuff would hidden under the truck. The trans (or rear-end mounted) method is sometimes uses on hot rods and race cars to drive an alternator.
Jim
Last edited by thx1138; Jul 24, 2010 at 11:40 PM.
Reason: added info
Starter motors draw a lot of current, at least when they're trying to turn an engine over. It's measured in hundreds of amps. The motors are not designed to survive that kind of use for more than a few seconds at a time. I suggested a 12V motor because it should draw less current at 6V, and they're also very common so burning one out is no big loss. On the other hand, maybe a 6V motor would be OK if the load is light enough.
Try it and see. Preferably with a high-current shunt ammeter to get an idea of what the motor draws. Maybe a tach so the York compressor doesn't spin too fast.
Or, go for the engine mounted York compressor. That's well-tested technology, and won't put a big load on the battery or generator. Paint the York engine colour and it may look original enough. Having a serious source of on-board air will have other uses.
The compact electric ones shown in the picture above do, but one built from a salvaged A/C compressor would require a pressure switch like a home compressor. You could probably make a 6v oil pressure idiot light sender work or just install a pressure relief valve.
I do a little checking on this (I'm curious myself). There are 'kits' to do this in 4x4's and I know they've been used with airbag setups. I add more on what I find.
A company called Viair (VIAIR Corporation - 12 & 24 Volt Air Compressors) sells parts and complete systems. A quick look around there site didn't list anything 6v, but, you should contact them and ask. (Didn't see 12 & 24 volt 'til I previewed )
The first link I posted used a pressure cut-off switch for a home air compressor. Makes sense, the switch doesn't know what voltage it's switching. The Viair site had one that was about same size/shape as a brake light switch for our old trucks. I would imagine it's a normally-closed switch that opens when it reaches pressure (opposite of a brake light switch)
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