Points to electronic ?'s
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From: Wingo, Ky
Points to electronic ?'s
Anybody have any experience with using Pertronix's Igniter II ignition system?
Seems that it would give better startup, gas milage and throttle response and no adjusting like points.
Im wanting to do this to my 73 302. From what I have read this ignition system is stand alone(no spark box).
Seems that it would give better startup, gas milage and throttle response and no adjusting like points.
Im wanting to do this to my 73 302. From what I have read this ignition system is stand alone(no spark box).
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From: Canyon, TX
I haven't used Pertronix, but when something like this comes up on a classic Ford forum I often recommend the Accel module. Part number is 2020. I've dropped them in my 1970 Bronco and my (sold) 67 Mustang and they work just fine. People have their preferences, but it was an easy install and I've had no problems...plus they cost less.
I've found them on ebay for about $40 (don't see any right now, though). I can't say that any of these products will significantly improve your gas mileage, engine wear, etc., but it does beat the hassle of points.
I've found them on ebay for about $40 (don't see any right now, though). I can't say that any of these products will significantly improve your gas mileage, engine wear, etc., but it does beat the hassle of points.
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Joined: May 2004
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From: High Desert of Southern C
For my tow rig, I have a 1970 IH Travelall with a 345. I have owned this rig for 13 years. Set the points every 1,000 miles, and replace them every 3,000. I recently changed to a Pertronix unit, and kick myself for not doing it YEARS sooner. It starts easier, idles better, and the big dead spot off the line has disappeared. The changeover was very simple too!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
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From: NorCal
'installed Pertronix systems in my 65 and 68 Mustangs and 71 Lemans. Only one additional wire coming out of the distributor, super easy to install, and idles smoothly.
'Very much worth avoiding the hassle of bouncy points, pitted contacts, and tuning it up every 2,000 miles.
'Very much worth avoiding the hassle of bouncy points, pitted contacts, and tuning it up every 2,000 miles.
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From: Wingo, Ky
I may have a weak coil b/c if I don't get the points set just right the truck won't even attempt to fire. And compared to my 79 F150 with factory electronic you can tell the idle isnt as smooth.
I don't know much about the Accel module, I will go check it out. I do run stranded copper core wires. I've been trying to find out all I can about Pertronix's Igniter II ignition and their corresponding Flame-Thrower II coil and spark plug wires.
The ignition is 100 bucks and another 45 for the coil from Jegs. All worth it though if it does what its says on Pertronix's site. Im sure anything is a worlds difference from the points. Right now Im running stock $6.00 points, lol.
I don't know much about the Accel module, I will go check it out. I do run stranded copper core wires. I've been trying to find out all I can about Pertronix's Igniter II ignition and their corresponding Flame-Thrower II coil and spark plug wires.
The ignition is 100 bucks and another 45 for the coil from Jegs. All worth it though if it does what its says on Pertronix's site. Im sure anything is a worlds difference from the points. Right now Im running stock $6.00 points, lol.
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I put a Pertronix ignitor in my 65 289 Mustang which I had for 29 years and it never ran better or started easier than all the previous yrs of ownership. Bought in 78 sold in 07.
edit ran better after ignitor installed
edit ran better after ignitor installed
Last edited by merlynr; Jul 20, 2010 at 03:11 PM. Reason: reword
Senior User
Joined: May 2010
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From: Florida
For everyone that has the Petronics unit, i have one on the bench waiting to install on a 74 F100, where did people who have this unit tie the constant 12v + wire to? The positive on the coil or a new switched circuit?
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From: Wingo, Ky
There shouldn't be any "constant" 12v wire in the ignition.
But I was wondering when you install the Pertronix unit do you take the resistor out of the wire coming from the ignition switch so the system gets 12v?
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From: Bay City, TX
Pertronix Install
Please let me know what you gap your spark plugs at when you install your ignitor. Did you also get a flame thrower? Just curious I also have a ignitor kit and am thinking about installing it. Just don't want to get in over my head. How much of a timing issue is there with this switch as well? Thanks in advance for everyones help.
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From: Wingo, Ky
I my self havent done the swap yet, I am going to though. But from all the info I have gathered from sites covering the Pertronix Ignitor if the engine is stock run the stock spark plug gap.
I've read that Pertronix recommends running their corresponding coil also. Igniter-Flame Thrower. Igniter II-Flame Thrower II.
Also read that you can not use solid core wires with these systems.
I've read that Pertronix recommends running their corresponding coil also. Igniter-Flame Thrower. Igniter II-Flame Thrower II.
Also read that you can not use solid core wires with these systems.
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From: Wingo, Ky
I read the instructions on Pertronix's site. It doesnt say if you should remove the ballast resistor or use it. I figured you do away with it so the system can get full 12 volts(thats if you are using their coil) I suspect the original coil will burn up from this? Don't it actually only get 8 volts?
Fleet Owner
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From: NorCal
Ignitor Wiring
I just dug up the Pertonix instructions and it says you have the option of keeping the ballast resistor/resistance wire OR removing them altogether. Either way, the module needs 12V to function correctly.
If keeping the ballast resistor/resistance wire, the ignitor's red wire is tapped in front (upstream) of the resistor in order to get 12V from the ignition switch. If deleting, then relocate the 12V power wire going to the resistor and, with the Ignitor's red wire, connect them to the coil's positive terminal.
If keeping the ballast resistor/resistance wire, the ignitor's red wire is tapped in front (upstream) of the resistor in order to get 12V from the ignition switch. If deleting, then relocate the 12V power wire going to the resistor and, with the Ignitor's red wire, connect them to the coil's positive terminal.
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From: Wingo, Ky
Ok did some more poking around and finally found a write up on another site(chevy site....gasp). It says Pertronix system works well with stock resistor but works at optimum performance wired 12v.
So all that is left to do is drop the 100 bucks for one.
I guess I better get my cracked windshield replaced first, then byebye points!
So all that is left to do is drop the 100 bucks for one.
I guess I better get my cracked windshield replaced first, then byebye points!
Fleet Owner
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 20,678
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From: NorCal
Converting my Lemans was a bit more complicated due to GM's rotor design. On Fords, Pertonix's shutter wheel goes fits nicely over the distributor shaft. On the GM, the shutter wheel is ring that gets bolted under the rotor. It's no wonder GM needed a fed bailout!