Here is the problem I'm dealing with. See the gear where the lock/ free cap moves in and out. The gear will only go so far in and won't let me push it in any more so I can fit the thing with the two ears in and put the c clip in. I have checked with the manual and the other side as reference and I still can't get it to work? Any ideas?

 

looks like the gear is on backwards... the inner ring that you can see exposed to the outside should be behind the smaller/inner gear and that recessed ring is where the spring rides to keep pressure on the larger gear ...it is kind of designed so that if the hub locking assembly falls off it will lock the hubs in 4wd

should be the bearings...lock nuts...ring that goes over outer bearing which the spring rides on...the larger ring w/ the recessed area inwards so that the outer end/ring of the so ring provides pressure outwards...the smaller gear...small cir-clip on axle shaft and the ring...which you are holding in the picture to disengage gears..not sure of exact name for it... the flat plate which the hubs bolt to and larger cir-clip

I hope this makes sense..

 

That part with the two ears is your actuating cam, something's obviously hung up or as lostinfords noted on backwards, there's only four pieces behind the actuating cam.... spring retainer, spring, clutch ring and the axle shaft ring (the part with the gears) tear it down again and be sure they're installed correctly, moving freely and not hung up.

 

X2..along w/ correct terminology

 

This looks like a good site to look at. I think the 3rd pdf down might have a pic or two to help out.

Dana Holding Corporation The Expert Librarian - Information for driveshafts, u-joints, axles, heavy axles, light axles, Drivelines

 

It doesn't hurt to have the factory service manuals right next to the computer lol.

 

Nice link! it's the same as the factory service manual pic for pic, reps sent.

 

Thanks. I just found it too.

Hopefully it comes in handy for him. (I know it will for me)

I saved it to my favorites.

 

Thanks guys that is exactally what it was. My brain was not working and I put the outer gears in backward. Well! That is how we learn.
Thanks to the both of you for your help.
I will drive it tomorrow and let you know what I find about the bearings being bad causing the wobbles or not.

 

Well there was a change, a change for the worst.
Now it shakes even worse. This all started when I rotated the tires, when the truck was jacked up something moved and now I have the wobbles.
Any ideas what that might be?

 

Well that part is good news.

Might be as simple as a wheel out of balance, it would be more noticable up front than in the rear.

 

I will check the wheel out of round tomorrow.
do you know how tight you are suppose to tighten the wheel bearing nut? Most 2wd you tighten it and then back it off 1/4 turn set cotter pin and done, but this front end is to weird.

 

AWSOME WEB SITE THANK YOU VERY MUCH THIS IS A HUGE HELP!!!!

 

It doesn't hurt to have the parts catalog, either as all the parts are shown individually and in sequence in an exploded diagram.

When viewing the parts in sequence of how they are installed/removed, it'll be EZ to see what part goes where, and will lessen the chances of installing the parts out of sequence or bassackwards.

The 1973/79 Ford LIGHT Truck Parts Catalog is available on a CD from hipoparts.com.

 

I generally just do it by "feel" but the factory torque specs are 20-25 ft-lbs. just enough to seat the bearings then you want to back off on the nut about 1/8-1/4 of a turn.