2001 F250 Caliper bracket
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2001 F250 Caliper bracket
I'm changing the rotors, pads on my 2001 F250. In taking the pads out- I noticed the caliper bracket bolts (that have the rubber bushings on them) are seized. One of the bolts moves freely- the others don't. I'm guessing these bolts for the caliper brackets themselves need to float in the assembly? there are no threads there- just a brass bolt in the housing. Do I have this correct? the bolts are supposed to move? The others are seized up so I will try and free them if I can- If not, I guess I need new caliper brackets.
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I would assume you are talking about the caliper slider pins. If so then, yes, the caliper should be able to slide easily from side to side on the pins.
However to get the calipers off and get access to the pads you would have had to be able to unscrew the slider pins so it must have been possinle to turn them in the caliper, even if stiff.
Spray the pins well with a good penetrating fluid and leave for a couple of hours and then try to hammer the bolt head inwards, spray some more and try to move them out. Keep doing this while also rotating them from time to time. If you get them out and they look OK then just clean and grease them well and reuse. If badly rusted or damaged then slider pin kits are not too expensive so replace them.
However to get the calipers off and get access to the pads you would have had to be able to unscrew the slider pins so it must have been possinle to turn them in the caliper, even if stiff.
Spray the pins well with a good penetrating fluid and leave for a couple of hours and then try to hammer the bolt head inwards, spray some more and try to move them out. Keep doing this while also rotating them from time to time. If you get them out and they look OK then just clean and grease them well and reuse. If badly rusted or damaged then slider pin kits are not too expensive so replace them.
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Joined: Mar 2002
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From: Bonita Springs FL
When you get them out, clean the pins well and also clean the holes in the caliper bracket out really well with lots of brake parts cleaner. Shoot cleaner in there until it runs out clear. Also if you have a brush that will let you scrape the old stuff out even better. When you put them back together use white lithium grease (not in the spray can, you need more than that).
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thanks- I ended up replacing the brackets (came in a kit with new calipers)- I probably need new ones anyway so might as well do it right. the new calipers, bracket, pads, rotors etc pretty straight forward (and clean!) to put back in.
One question. I bled starting with front pass side- then front drivers. I never touched the rear brakes- Do I need to bleed the whole system starting with the pass rear? Also- when bleeding (2 person) At what point do you recommend I stop the "bleeding" process..?? I have person push pedal and hold several times - clear fluid comes out- and I don't think I hear or see any more air,- just wanna be sure
One question. I bled starting with front pass side- then front drivers. I never touched the rear brakes- Do I need to bleed the whole system starting with the pass rear? Also- when bleeding (2 person) At what point do you recommend I stop the "bleeding" process..?? I have person push pedal and hold several times - clear fluid comes out- and I don't think I hear or see any more air,- just wanna be sure
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As you only worked on the fronts there is a good chance you only need to bleed the front brakes. However even if that is the case it would be a good time to flush new fluid through the rear system as well.
When bleeding air out of the system you are looking to bleed each wheel untill there is a solid flow of fluid out of the bleed screw, not even the smallest air bubble. May take one or two pumps of the pedal, may take twenty but all the air must be out.
When bleeding air out of the system you are looking to bleed each wheel untill there is a solid flow of fluid out of the bleed screw, not even the smallest air bubble. May take one or two pumps of the pedal, may take twenty but all the air must be out.
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