Engine shutdown unable to diag...
2002 F350 7.3L 90k miles (yes, 90) medium towing and hauling duty about 50% of the time.
Programmed stage 2 Hypertech most of its life.
Factory brand (has FORD stamped on it) remote start / alarm installed by dealer.
up to about 20k extensive rotor issue until fixed with new rotors
several battery drain issues first 10k - remote start wired properly
30k, 70k miles installed new CPS. Factory OE. Symptom was sudden shutdown or bucking
60k miles, top end oil leak fixed, forget but it was a "typical" issue fixed under warranty.
80k Fuel tank removed, relined, new fuel pump. Transfer Flow 48 gallon tank corroded.
A few other minor things here and there but normal.
Always been serviced, engine is kept clean, fluids checked etc...
present day
89k noticed a SMALL drop of oil on the ground. wtih research suspected Turbo oilers leaking. regular diesel mechanic busy, took to stealership.
$480 later (I kid you not) turbo leak was fixed, cruise control recall fix completed. I'd forgot about it, they did it without asking.
[ Job was sloppy, foil insulation wadded up, rubber caps on bold ends not replaced, oil not cleaned up AND they took my rear valve stem caps (the flow through metal ones) and replaced them with bright shiney new black caps ]
This truck has NEVER had a cronic problem, NEVER given me grief, NEVER left me walking... until now.
About 5 hours into a long trip a day after the repair the truck began bucking at speed. It lost power, it ran bad. Fuel treatment and new fuel = no fix. Code P0603 and P0344 It cleared up on it's own, a week later a repeat.
Replaced CPS with Black aftermarket. Drove a few days. Thought it might be fixed. Nope.
Had trusted mechanic check it, found a plug from the the wiring harness concerning the cruise control recall was laying on the manifold and partially melted. Some other minor damage to the covering but he says no wires were exposed at that location. Cleaned it up and tied it out of the way.
I really really thought that was it. Went for weeks no problem.
Noticed for the first time the AC goes off when 4x4 turned on. related? probably not... Got 4x4 fixed. A switch or solenoid was bad, typical, repair was about $180. Works fine.
A week later... dead in the water (it was raining). Truck switch off restarts on it's own about 3 seconds later. This repeats several times only quicker restarts. Code P0344
Truck does it later when not raining.
Truck has lost power, even without shutting off, code returns sometimes.
Mechanic -
Truck never failed for mechanic in 3 days, code did not return.
Traced wiring, sees no problem (perhaps need to look harder/different place?)
Alternator 12.7 to 14.8 V
Remote start - not likely due to the way it works and the codes. It intercepts the ignition circuit and looks more like a key turning. Shutting off would not be followed by a restart.
Suspects CPS... but odds don't seem to support that.
I will put a new CPS on it tomorrow just on the outside chance...
Any thoughts one something to look for? WTF could the "guy" with the turbo fix have done? This is driving me insane and I have a trip coming up.
/RB
Also be sure the connector for the CPS is in good shape and fits snug. Check to make sure the rubber gasket is in good shape and not letting water in the connection or leaving the plug loose.
With a P0344, the CPS or it's wiring is where you need to start.
Code this time... P1249 Turbo overboost ???
My plan was to replace the CPS in the morning, check all the wiring I can find and return the truck to factory code (ouch). Then run it at least 2 weeks without incident then reprogram.
HOWEVER... what do I make of this new code?
To make matters worse we have the Bat Blitz this coming weekend in N. GA and I don't know how we are going to get there at this point. If I don't take the Bat trailer I may as well stay home.
I'm going to stick with Plan A in the morning... any suggestions on P1249?
/RB
/RB
I *may* have found the problem. While inspecting I found a splice in one wire near the front of the engine as it drops down toward the CPS. I have no idea if it goes to the CPS or not as I didn't want to split the bundle further. The splice did not look new but the way the cabling was wrenched up and stretched during the turbo fix it would be very possible it was strained. I did not replace the splice, I did push it back together hard and recrimp it. I coated it with some electrical tape and relaxed all the wiring in the area.
I did replace the CPS with a factory unit (replacing the new black one). I added dielectric grease this time to the connector even though the rubber seal was present and in good shape. I deprogrammed back to factory code. So far so good. No event, no codes after 30 minutes of driving.
I noted on the turbo some of the wire terminations now lack the rubber boots that use to cover them. Nothing was touching but it is such a sloppy job I just ticks me off. I don't know what I was thinking taking it up there. Live and learn.
I'll update again as I see what happens.
/RB





