I really need to shorten my cables. They are a little long after seeing it all put together, so it made bolting up the fuse difficult.

Can I place the heat shrink wrap completely over the fuse or should I just cover the ends? Then I can place some bigger looms around the cables and fuse to make it look nicer.

I'm not sure of my pulley size unless I go check. It came from the 45a alt.

 

I'd insulate just the ends of the cables where the metal meets the rubber, then cover the whole thing with more plastic loom - this way everything is protected yet still easily accessible if you ever need to disconnect it.

 

What do you mean by you will upgrade your headlight harness and headlights to get the full effect?...thanks

 

I feel the pain with the parts guys problems of making you feel like you don't know what you are talking about...however i do not have that problem since i am married to one of the local AZ girls. Makes getting parts real easy plus i really like the 20% discount that comes with along as a benefit.

 

I now have one parts guy I use he works at Baxters auto parts . The reason I always have had problems with AZ or Oreilys is that I have modified my truck so much with stuff from many different trucks an year ranges that It can confuse the parts monkey .

 

I learned a long time ago to do the research myself and ask them for specific part numbers. Its getting better now that some of the big parts houses will let you check the local store inventory. Napa comes directly to mind and O'Reillys is just starting to get better. I walk in to the Napa and they start with the "What vehicle, what year... " and I just hand them a list of there own part numbers

Also: MEGAFuse Holder, 250 amp, BK 7821143 @ NAPA just in case anyone else needs it

As the truck was delivered from the factory, the headlights are powered directly through the headlight switch in the dash. Usually with that long a run of wire you loose some amperage and it puts a lot of load on the switch itself, possibly burning it out. You can rebuild your headlight harness pretty easily with heavier wire connected directly to the positive side of the starter solenoid and using a pair of relays for high and low beam, using the stock harness to trigger the relays. You get direct battery voltage and thus brighter headlights, with less chance of frying your $60 headlight switch.

If you are not as electrically inclined, you can always get one of these from LMC Truck: 47-3660 Heavy Duty Headlight Harness.

I also purchased a pair of Bosh 7" European H4 bulb housings from BusDepot for $44, and a set of H4 55/60w bulbs It replaces your craptastic 7" sealed beam old school yellow incandescent 45/35w bulbs with modern H4 55/60w halogens. Technically the H4 conversion does not require a harness upgrade, but I figured it I was going to do it, I might as well do it all at once. I highly recommend the H4 upgrade, probably one of the best things I've done with the truck to increase safety in night driving situations.

 

I have a repeat problem with my swap. I had a junkyard 3g off a 97 3.8L mustang and it worked good. Than the belt would start whining when i would 1st start my truck and eventually break my belt. Figured the bearings were bad even though it checked out good at Advance so I bought a rebuilt one from Advance. It was good for awhile but now does the same thing. I have went through a ton of belts both Dayco and cheap brands. Do I really need to buck up for a March set-up with serpentine belts?

 

Never had a problem with any belts or squealing. Are you sure the alignment is ok?

Also, 1997 is a little late for the first batch of 3G alternators that most of us are using. I'll have to look it up, but you might be using a large case 6G (which looks exactly like the 3G)

Josh

 

I've never had a problem with belts on any of mine either, but they say the more amp, the more effort it is to turn it with the belt. Just like bullitt390 said check your alignment, do it with a straight edge and make sure your getting the belt tight. For the O.P. and anyone looking for alt charge wire, holders, etc I get alot of stuff from this site, good quality stuff too - RJM Injection Tech — Alternator Accessories

 

I've messed with it and im sure its not perfect but it used to flip the belts over on the pullies or spit them off at high rpms. I fixed that problem and now i get this. Im pretty sure its a 3g its on a 460 and it only needed a little grinding on the bracket to fit. Never had a problem with the belts when I had a 100 amp 1 wire alternator but the alternator itself was junk. Truck has an electric fuel pump, stereo no amp right now, MSD ignition, NOS bottle heater and now a Taurus fan. It kills the belts with or without the fan on but it surely makes it worse.

 

Please enlighten me on the serpentine belt setup?......i will take notes and put that on the to do list.....Thnx

 

What engine are you running? If 302/351 or 460 it's easy since there are OEM reverse rotation water pumps.

Josh

 

I agree, and just a suggestion as a good one to use on a 302/351W is the 87 Mustang GT. The holes in the backing plate are round so it doesn't care if it's on a newer or older timing cover.

EDIT: My thread about the conversion I did. Ignore all my stupid questions in the beginning of the thread about the mechanical fan. LOL

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...lt-set-up.html

 

Ive got a 302 in it..

 

Just did the 3G swap and after a lot of nagging a member here for help (a huge thanks to Josh) I finally have it wired right and it runs. My problem now is the belt whines/smokes. I was looking at some of the pictures on here and it appears that the lower bracket that is used to adjust for tension lays on the front of the alt ear. I swapped it around from the rear and it whines even worse. I'm maxed out on tension as far as adjustment goes. I've read that some folks have to add 3" to the lower bracket I'm talking about but I don't have a welder. Could I not just find a shorter belt? At max adjustment it's snug but not as tight as I would normally make it. Yet it's tight enough to smoke the belt. This is a 351m motor. Anyone know of a belt that will work and be about 1-2 inch shorter? Sure would beat having my bracket fabbed!!!

Oh the belt I have now is under a year old and looks good. The alignment looks good as well. Any ideas?