I have a 90 F250 w/5.0. I just changed the fuel tank float as it was full of gas and not reading on the dash. I also replaced the filler hose that was faulty. I was bleeding the brakes and had some air in the front right tire. I did not touch anything besides the battery in the engine compartment. Now the truck stalls or the idle drops to about 500 when I push the clutch to stop. The check engine light came on and then off again after driving. No problems when running in gear. I know the EGR could stick or the IAC could not respond correctly but I never touched any of that and it ran fine. Please help. Thanks.

 

Ford Fuel Injection How To Run a Self-Test here is a link on how to check for trouble codes using the check engine light. Yours should be 2 digit codes.
Getting the codes may help in pinpointing the problem.

 

The weirdest things can happen bro. Try cleaning your EGR valve. I don't think it is the IAC because you would have a crazy idle.

 

The codes did read 33 or EGR not reading opening. The issue is that it happened after working on the gas tank. I worked fine before and I think that it is too much of a coincidence that it stalls now. I started it yesterday before cleaning the EGR and it started right up and then stalled. Idle around 500-600.

 

I know seems a bit weird. So it stalled between 500-600RPM? So it stalls when engine is warmed up? But when you start the engine in the morning (cold engine) does it idle above 700RPM?

 

It stalled right off the bat cold and idle stays at 500-600 and then restarted and it ran for about 10 min or so why I ran the KOER codes. When it first happened it stalled when warm too ran it for about 35 min.

Thanks.

 

Hmm... have you checked your fuel pressure just to make sure? So your saying that sometimes it idles normally and then suddenly stalls?

 

I broke down and changed the EGR and it does idle much better. However, when I started it after the change it stalled right off the bat then restarted it and ran better. I have not driven it yet and will try today. I want to also reset the codes and recheck after my drive. I have not checked the fuel pressure and don't know how.

 

Fuel pressure can be checked by attaching a gauge to the schrader valve fitting on the fuel injector rail. You should take off the green vacuum line that connects to the fuel pressure regulator and see if it makes a difference. If it does then it's probably faulty.

 

You know what just came to my mind... it's horrible. You did not remove the bed while you dropped your tank and removed the pump right?

I have two thoughts...

 

I dropped the tank and took out the pump and replaced the float. It had two fuel lines, a wire harness, some sort of relief hose and the filler tube. I did not mess with the bed at all.

 

Are you sure that when you put it back you did not pinch any fuel lines?This happened to me but I saw it before further finishing the install. My other thought was did the locking ring go all the way to where it locks?

 

Thanks for all your help. I did replace the EGR valve and it didn't work right away. I reset the computer by pulling the neg for a little while and putting it back on. No EGR codes are reading and it reads that the ECT is out of range but runs fine. Thanks again.

 

If the engine is not at operating temp when the scan is done, you'll get that code. If it was at op. temp., replace the ECT sensor or you wont get more than 10 mpg!