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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 01:41 AM
  #31  
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joe f350
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From: concord ca
build some thing like this a Aframe hoist

 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 05:18 AM
  #32  
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That would cost more than a rebuild lol. But it would be nice to have.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 05:30 AM
  #33  
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From: Chicago and Mt Carroll IL
Originally Posted by Festus Hagen
The hoist wheels will likely go right through MDF on soft ground ...

Charleswood ...

-Enjoy
fh : )_~
I've seen a pneumatic framer break through 1/2" OSB just from a drop from a ladder if between centers. We've also repaired hail damaged OSB roofs that needed complete deck replacement. Whenever possible, opt for plywood, esp fir in structural applications.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 06:53 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Rick Wallace
Would 2 2x6s with a 3/4 plywood sandwiched in bewtween,[glued and bolted together] support a 6.9?? Keep in mind Im pulling the clip so it doesent have to come way up. The span would be 12 feet
No. Do not attempt that.

Considering life safety, perhaps a double 1-3/4" X 18" LVL fastened together with Simpson SDS screws in a close staggered pattern and held at each end with a heavy duty Simpson strong tie double joist over column supports. I'm sure you could use a parallam too. I recommend not using wood and sticking with steel like everyone else said. That LVL is > $8/LF at cost and the parallam will be more around $13+/LF at cost. Retail would be much more. The SDS screws will cost you. You're better off buying a good w-shape and doing it right.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 10:52 AM
  #35  
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[quote=mechelement;9114459]No. Do not attempt that.
This is the best advice I think,I also talked to my buddy the carpenter and he almost had a stroke,,,he said if I tried that If the motor didnt kill me he would! OK, Steel is the plan as of now,,thanks for all the input
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 11:00 AM
  #36  
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BTW, The concrete man wants 500$ for a 12x25 slab,,not as bad as I thought,,,time to do some more thinkin......
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 11:43 AM
  #37  
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That is a price for concrete! I think I would do it man.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 11:50 AM
  #38  
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That is a good price for the concrete, half of that $500 will go to materials.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 02:10 PM
  #39  
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concrete not hard to pour just lots of work to get to correct grade and finish and tools that most people don't own. kind of off topic but i built my house and just like most of your's the drywall on the ceilings is held up with very few screws or nails into 2x4's and drywall is not light by no meens. i built a whole 20'x24' building with concrete floors for less than $500 no labor costs.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 02:17 PM
  #40  
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[QUOTE=Rick Wallace;9115065]
Originally Posted by mechelement
No. Do not attempt that.
This is the best advice I think,I also talked to my buddy the carpenter and he almost had a stroke,,,he said if I tried that If the motor didnt kill me he would! OK, Steel is the plan as of now,,thanks for all the input
at least he didnt have a cummins lmao
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 02:21 PM
  #41  
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he he he!!!! Thats a good one John,,,especially since he drives a Ram with a cummins!!
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 04:54 PM
  #42  
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Oh no that is wrong. Tell him if it will get him into a ford instead of a dodge you wil try it lol.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 10:41 PM
  #43  
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Wood is stronger than steel pound for pound.

Problem with that, 100 pounds of wood is a lot bigger than 100 pounds of steel.

If your 2 x 6 is yellow pine, not spruce and you triple them instead of just double with 1/2" plywood sandwitch between them, I say it will hold.

But don't forget, what is the beam going to be resting on at the ends?

Double 2 x 4 top plate?
That will not hold the beam and engine.

So now you have to build a support for each end of the beam.

You would be amazed at what I have jacked up with yellow pine 6x6x16 timbers.

Wanna try taking the basement out from under a brick house and replacing it while the homeowner was living in it?
 
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